'Da Chief : 5.3 Gen V / 6L80 Swap

[cu4whln]

Hydraboost 101 - Check

Today got the original firewall bracket reinstalled and bolted the system up to check final clearances.
Was planning to start the high pressure hose hook ups and routing.

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Just enough room to clear the valve cover.. Have some concerns with the hoses being close to exhaust as they exit below the unit.
Also, the prop valve could interfere with the inner fender.

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This led to temporarily installing the driver inner fender.. and sure enough, the prop valve hits the inner fender. I hate it when I am right ?

So out comes my "Adjusting Tools" ... used 2 crescent wrenches to tweak the prop valve to make clearance... No problem!

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Have to make new lines now... Oh joy!

[cu4whln]

In Other News . . .

Since I am just doing the powertrain right now, I want some gauges...
I bought original Jeep sending units and installed them into the new engine.

First up:
I unscrewed and pulled the original block plug [sitting in vice] and replaced it with this ICT Billet part that is tapped for a temp sending unit.
Boom! Temp gauge working . . .
When I do the new gauges, I will update this sending unit to match the new stuff.

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Next:
I drilled and tapped the oil cooler block off plate purchased from ICT as well. Then installed the sending unit.
Can't verify operation yet, but it should work.
It's installed here.. and you can see the temp unit installed in the block above it as well.

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[cu4whln]

More Brakes . . .

So today I worked on high pressure hose routing and configurations for the hydraboost.
The brake kit came with some hose and various fittings, but I didn't think it was long enough to reach from the pass side PS pump all the way over and up to the hydraboost unit.

I was wrong! It was literally just enough to get a good routing and still reach the unit. This is great! I was planning on having a custom hose made to reach.
The provided hose system has a feature to install the hose fitting yourself. Nice!

Some of the provided parts . . .

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I went ahead and sealed the PS cooler and ran the return hoses to where they will hook into the system. Secured them for long life as well.
Don't want a hose chaffing through in the middle of nowhere.

You can see the ports that are on the engine side... [ lower inboard side ]
The provided 90 degree fittings will work, but I am getting some heat protection wrap for that end as insurance.
PS fluid WILL burn readily if sprayed into an exhaust manifold! Not taking that chance.

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I had the hoses all hooked up, and forgot to take a pic I guess ... Oops.

Next up:
Setting the brake pedal height with the universal adjustable rod end that came with the kit.
It's a good set up with a nice hardened pin and an easy clamp/lock to hold it.. BUT

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I want to use the factory brake pin, it's strong and is a proven part. The stock pin set up will not accept this "U" design.
Soo... I decide to modify it to lock in only one side like the stock one. [That uses a wave washer and a cotter pin.]
First, I decided to move the hole closer to the threaded end that attaches to the input rod [first pic]

I figured this would reduce the "moment arm" as this offset will induce some side load.. not enough to worry me [ I hope! ]

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Next, I cut the "extra" side off, then removed the longer material not needed. this is a pretty thick, strong part btw.

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Next? Use the threaded adjustment to set the working brake pedal height from the floor.
I have a buddy that is getting me a measurement from his stock 77 Chero.
When I have that, I will cut down the threaded input rod and use the remaining adjustment to set up the final pedal position.

[bkilby]

Next? Use the threaded adjustment to set the working brake pedal height from the floor.
I have a buddy that is getting me a measurement from his stock 77 Chero.

When you get that, let me know what it is so I can adjust mine. Lol.

[J76137]

Nope.. I will be happy with the stock power. it's a Jeep and tow rig.

Out of curiosity, how much do you expect this to be able to tow?

[cu4whln]

Out of curiosity, how much do you expect this to be able to tow?

Both my trailers weigh about 3,000 lbs. However, the Yukon the engine came out of is rated around 8,000 lbs.

Not sure my springs are set up for that much!

[bigwalton]

When you get that, let me know what it is so I can adjust mine. Lol.

Won't let me attach the photo, but the bottom of the pedal on mine (I'm said friend who sent Jim the measurement) is right at 6" from the heel pad on stock carpet.

I did swap a J10 booster onto mine when I got it back on the road, but I didn't play with the rod at all and this feels pretty normal to me. So FWIW.

[cu4whln]

Guess What Day It Is ! . . .

First Clue:

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I have been tinkering around with the brakes and getting fittings and pressure hoses together for the hydraboost. About have that done.. but still need a "Y" fitting for the return lines...

Soo .. I figured I would start integrating the new engine/trans harness into the original Jeep harness. Always fun.
Thank goodness for the factory service manual and the great wiring diagrams.
I am in no way an expert on wires.. but after some study, started to get a good idea of what was what and how it works.

Step one was getting eliminating the Amp meter feed wire [ Large Yellow Wire ]. Then hooking up the large Red wire to feed the Jeep. Check...

Then I hooked up the various lines SwapTime had identified. Not many really...
Starter feed wire [ Blue solenoid wire ], a switched ignition feed to turn on computer, the PWM fan control wire, AC input [ Brown ], and the fuel pump relay control output.
Also hooked up the Jeep oil and temp gauges with the original feed wires. Added a few grounds, and the brake switch input..
Then added some batt terminals for temp hook up.
Just hooking everything up... Lots of wires...

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Heck, seems we could try to turn it over... Hmmm, let's do it!
Add some coolant.. but shouldn't really run it as the PS system is not complete yet.

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And we try it.. crank.. crank.. crank.. NOPE. Strike one!
Hmmm... Round 2 .. crank, crank, crank.. NOPE. Strike two!
Round 3 .. crank, crank, crank... NOPE. Strike three! We're out!

Definitely close, but no cigar. Turns out there is a throttle fault due to me having the wrong pedal hooked up. The correct pedal is on its way ... but figured this one would work. Nope.

Anyway, there was another issue.. seems the fuel was getting up the line, but the air was trapped and stopped the fuel from really getting to the direct injection pump. Cracked the fuel line and verified pump operation.. Yup.
More cranking... and wait, wait... what was that ??

It fired up ! Yup, started briefly, and we shut it down right away...
SO that is good news.. It seems to run! Great.
Now, it was not running correctly yet as I need the correct pedal... but sort of a milestone anyway.

Small Victories.... I'll take them.

Spent some time cleaning up the wires... and then unhooked everything.

[bigwalton]

Woohoo!! More than a small victory in my book!

[cu4whln]

Won't let me attach the photo, but the bottom of the pedal on mine (I'm said friend who sent Jim the measurement) is right at 6" from the heel pad on stock carpet.

I did swap a J10 booster onto mine when I got it back on the road, but I didn't play with the rod at all and this feels pretty normal to me. So FWIW.

Here's the pic you sent me .... Remember folks, there is jute under that pad if measuring with no carpet.

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[bkilby]

Huh. My non factory carpet with jute measures exactly the same. Maybe I have jolly green giant legs but my knee hits the steering wheel when my leg is vertical. I have to drive with my knee pointing to the center console like a chicken wing to keep it from hitting. I think the measurement was 22.5" from the brake pedal pad to the bottom of the steering wheel, towards the front.



Of course we're measuring vertical distance from the floor up and not in the arc the pedal travels, but close enough I suppose. My pedal needs to move about an inch closer to the "firewall" to make it more comfortable. But maybe that's just me......

[cu4whln]

Slooow Progress . . .

So, have been working through all the details that are not exciting, or photo worthy.
However, they MUST be done. Details take time!

Got all the hydraboost hoses done and run.. now need to take it all apart and set up the brake pedal.
Then bench bleed the master cylinder.. and make the new brake lines.
Then bleed the system.

Also, I need the accel pedal. Turns out I have to order my own... Hmm. Oh well, it's coming from Amazon.
After i get that, and get some PS fluid in the system, I can actually run the engine for a bit to ensure things are A-OK.

Here is the new "Double Double" Carden rear driveshaft from MR Woods. They make good stuff.
Also of note, new output yokes and bolts for the t-case and axle. They came all bolted up.

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[cu4whln]

Burned Out . . .

I have gotten tired of working on the Jeep project. Took a few days off ...

Yesterday, I did remove the brake system and cut the adjustable rod length to set the pedal height.
Then tightened up all the high pressure hoses for what I think will be the last time.

First pic - This inside where the rod comes through to the brake pedal pin. i have yet to install the washer and cotter pin.

Second pic - Brake pedal in relation to accel pedal height. I can adjust this as there this is a threaded rod.

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Next, I got the Camaro accel pedal. It has no offset. Removed the stock pedal and started to mock this one up.
I removed the plastic spacer so only the metal back remained.. then played around with where/how to mount it.

Turns out, there are some holes in the middle of the pedal. one of these lined up reasonably well with one of the original accel pedal mount holes. Heck, lets try it.
Sure enough, it locates the pedal pretty well. I sat in the driver seat and it feels and works well. I will add another bolt and call it good.

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[cu4whln]

Engine Making Noise . . .

In Todays News:

Have spent a few days making brackets for the PS remote reservoir.. and ECU.
These will mount on the inner fenders, PS on the pass side, ECU on the driver side. No pics yet...
It is SOB HOT and humid here the last week or so ...

After I got the PS reservoir mounted, I added fluid.. and ran the engine for the first time [ More than 3 seconds like the initial starts ].
With the new pedal, it fired right up..... ran a bit confused for about 15 seconds, then quieted down and purred.
I am surprised at how quiet it is with just the front cats and short open pipes.

I let the engine get up to temp twice... No leaks!
Cycled the steering several times to fill the hydraboost/PS system and purge any trapped air in the steering box / hydraboost / cooler.

My OE temp sender works - check.
Temp gauge runs right in the green, a little below center. PWM fan came on and kept it all cool. Fan was running slowly and very quietly - love that! Of course, the fan will crank up if needed.
BTW - it was 98 degrees in the garage when I started it.

OE oil sender works too! Oil pressure was a steady 42 psi.

Strangely, there are no fluids dripping anywhere? That's a first !!

Now - the long road of putting it all back together so it can be driven. Plenty of parts to install and finish up yet.

[rang-a-stang]

No videos?!? Waaaaaaaaahhhhhh!!!