Leaf Spring Install - Need Incredible Hulk

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  • spridgetracer
    232 I6
    • Aug 15, 2005
    • 69

    Leaf Spring Install - Need Incredible Hulk

    Okay, finally got the freakin right rear spring removed after about 400 sawzall blades and a few grinding wheels.

    What a nightmare.

    Now I've got the new spring in place and the front bolt is in place. I've tried everything I can think of to put leverage on the spring to get the rear bolt holes to line up to no avail.

    I've gotten close, but then the whole Jeep starts to lift up rather than the spring bending any further.

    Help, before I accidentally kill myself.
    89 GW, \"The Tuna Buggy\"
  • Ted_Z
    232 I6
    • Sep 16, 2005
    • 177

    #2
    Get some junk in the trunk!

    Adding weight to the cargo area will help by letting you put more force on the spring before you lift.
    -Ted Z
    '76 Cherokee S

    Comment

    • spridgetracer
      232 I6
      • Aug 15, 2005
      • 69

      #3
      Great idea! "Honey, I need you to get in the back of the Jeep...trust me. Just do it. It will only take a few minutes!"
      89 GW, \"The Tuna Buggy\"

      Comment

      • ChiefTawny
        258 I6
        • Jul 28, 2005
        • 379

        #4
        i've used a porta-power between the military wraps. also a bottle jack with a piece of steel tube welded to it with the other end just crushed flat. put either setup in and start pumpin...it will stretch the spring out easly. just be careful they slip!!!
        SOLD!!!
        77 Cherokee Chief
        BJ's 6" lift
        35's on rusty white wagons

        Comment

        • Spectre
          AMC 4 OH! 1
          • Nov 26, 2004
          • 4219

          #5
          I (recently)found that a 6" length of 2x4 used as a skid or pad between the top of the shackle and the flat floor panel works great. Make sure you don't pin anything under the pad, then jack it up with a trolley jack under the center of the spring. Pretty easy.

          [ December 07, 2005, 01:10 PM: Message edited by: Spectre ]
          "Battlewagon": 1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer (w/ Tow Pack) - Urban Assault Wagon under construction - TFI, TBI, CS144, Aftermarket Sanden, Explorer Power Seats, 4" Lift, 16" AHI wheels and much much more; click here for a full list of modifications and gear, links to writeups/posts and more info.

          Daily Driver: Modified 1987 Jaguar XJ6 Vanden Plas.

          Comment

          • Josh Schweitzer
            230 Tornado
            • Dec 04, 2005
            • 10

            #6
            Bahhhhhh Spectre I was about to use that very same pic of my waggy as my Avitar lol

            Guess ill use the hood ordament
            Josh Schweitzer<br />[email protected]<br />\"What goes up must come down\"

            Comment

            • GWJoe
              258 I6
              • Sep 26, 2005
              • 294

              #7
              thanks for letting me know that this isn't a job that I want to do myself. Good luck.

              Joe
              90 GW, mostly stock, JuiceBox TFI ignition upgrade, badly oxidized paint, aftermarket rear diff disco. Rear shoulder belts. <br /><br />Hobbies: used to have some, now I work on my Jeep.

              Comment

              • FSJ Thing
                Propane Protagonist
                • Aug 25, 2002
                • 3824

                #8
                Originally posted by spridgetracer:
                Okay, finally got the freakin right rear spring removed after about 400 sawzall blades and a few grinding wheels.

                What a nightmare.

                Now I've got the new spring in place and the front bolt is in place. I've tried everything I can think of to put leverage on the spring to get the rear bolt holes to line up to no avail.

                I've gotten close, but then the whole Jeep starts to lift up rather than the spring bending any further.

                Help, before I accidentally kill myself.
                Ummmm...I hook the springs to the frame before I hook the axle to the springs, this makes them easier to move around. Are you forgetting the shackle and trying to mount the spring to the frame at both ends? Generally, bolting the spring to the spring mount isn't that hard, and then sticking a bolt in the shackle and using a prybar to move it around so the spring eye lines up with it isn't that hard either. Or did I misunderstand and your talking about something else entirely and I look like a jackass? I'm cornfused...
                The Cherowagladabego Project. Updates coming as soon as I do something update worthy.

                Bring back Junk Yard Genius! he may have peed in some of your cornflakes, but everything he told me was helpful!

                Comment

                • nsanebiker
                  327 Rambler
                  • Apr 26, 2003
                  • 544

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Ted_Z:
                  Get some junk in the trunk!

                  Adding weight to the cargo area will help by letting you put more force on the spring before you lift.
                  Agreed, drop the tailgate and add 200-300 lbs and try to add another set of hands underneath to help get the spring in position and put the bolt through. I had the same issue as the wag would lift up off of the jack stands. Once you get one side in the other will be a snap.
                  James

                  1973 J4000 Custom Cab: 360/T18

                  My DD: DOZERCON
                  2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited

                  Comment

                  • Elliott
                    Cowboy Up
                    • Jun 22, 2002
                    • 12704

                    #10
                    Originally posted by FSJ Thing:
                    </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by spridgetracer:
                    Now I've got the new spring in place and the front bolt is in place. I've tried everything I can think of to put leverage on the spring to get the rear bolt holes to line up to no avail.

                    I've gotten close, but then the whole Jeep starts to lift up rather than the spring bending any further.

                    Help, before I accidentally kill myself.
                    Ummmm...I hook the springs to the frame before I hook the axle to the springs, this makes them easier to move around. Are you forgetting the shackle and trying to mount the spring to the frame at both ends? Generally, bolting the spring to the spring mount isn't that hard, and then sticking a bolt in the shackle and using a prybar to move it around so the spring eye lines up with it isn't that hard either. Or did I misunderstand and your talking about something else entirely and I look like a jackass? I'm cornfused...</font>[/QUOTE]Right, that's how I put 4" Sky Jacker springs on a chero and had no problem. Should be able to reach the shackle without the axle attached.
                    *** I am collecting pics and info on any factory Jeep Dually trucks from the J-Series at the new Jeep Dually Registry.
                    ***I can set you up with hydroboost for your brakes: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106056

                    Comment

                    • spridgetracer
                      232 I6
                      • Aug 15, 2005
                      • 69

                      #11
                      First I had the shackle on the axle and the front bolt attached and couldn't reach the rear bolt attachment.

                      Then I detached the shackle from the axle and was able to get the rear bolt lined up.

                      Finally, I took one of my tie-downs from the race car trailer and hooked one end to the left rear leaf spring and the other end to the right rear spring and I used it as a come-along to get the spring lined up over the hole/seat on top of the axle.

                      Still, this job sucks. I'm learning that working on a British car for years has made me into a pu$$y and that working on this Jeep is going to require a dramatic increase in testosterone quickly.
                      89 GW, \"The Tuna Buggy\"

                      Comment

                      • Tahnka
                        350 Buick
                        • Oct 16, 2003
                        • 1007

                        #12
                        $150 for the local shadetree to do it. It took him 4 hours with a full complement of shop tools and 2 extra helpers. He swore he'd never take a spring job on a Wagoneer, ever again.
                        Christopher
                        My DD: '84 Gwag
                        Georgia Full Size Jeep Club
                        Effectively Search IFSJA

                        --Wheel Stock

                        Comment

                        • Dive 30
                          350 Buick
                          • Aug 31, 2001
                          • 767

                          #13
                          It took three of us a full day to pull my old springs and put the lifted springs on. We used a ton of pry bar and extra hands as well as a good dose of BFH to get them swapped. The fronts weren't bad once we got them off, the backs were bad all the way around.

                          Phil
                          "Hooper Drives the Boat, Chief!" from 'Jaws'
                          '85 G-Wag, AMC 360 - Edelbrock Performer Cam and Intake, Megasquirt TBI, TF 727 with TCI Kit, NP-208, 4" Skyjacker Softride, Detroit EZ Locker front and rear.

                          Comment

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