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International Full Size Jeep Association
> Classifieds
> "Look Here" for Parts, Vehicles and Vendors
> Homegrown Vendors: (Members who produce FSJ related items)
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Hydroboost your FSJ, CJ/YJ, Commando, M715, Bronco, IH, S10, C3, FJ40 for $125+, TX
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07-13-2009, 06:46 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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Hydroboost your FSJ, CJ/YJ, Commando, M715, Bronco, IH, S10, C3, FJ40 for $125+, TX
Here are the current listings and these are available directly from me if you prefer not to deal with ebay (just send me an email here or through my ebay listing):
NEW one ton hydroboost set up for Jeep TJ, large dual piston disc/disc Dodge MC ($401 shipped) **I can make these up anytime in a slightly different configuration. This specific MC is very uncommon.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=300462432983
NEW one ton HB set up for TJ, ect with varied mounts and Ford disc/disc F250/350/550 MC for the large dual piston calipers and a MC rotator/adaptor plate with longer MC rod. ($421 shipped)
NEW one ton '55-'57 Chevy hydroboost setup inverted ($346 shipped)
***Same setup using a single flange mounting assembly for any FSJ or M715 is $328 shipped w/o the MC, $353 with MC
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300461927580&ssPageNam e=STRK:MESELX:IT
2000 GM 3500 with MC ($175 shipped, this won't fit your Jeep)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=300459353924
and cheaper Astro unit ($150 shipped, add $53 if you want the single flange mount, or add $25 for a 1" spacer, subtract $25 if you don't need the MC)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300461966234&ssPageNam e=STRK:MESELX:IT
Long rod Astro...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=300459138096
I also have 3/4 and 1 ton units available from $175-$200 shipped with the MC. The $200 units come with extended accumulators for more power assisted stops should your engine stall.
Mounting assembly shown here is extra.
The Astro hydroboost is only $125 shipped if you don't need the master cylinder (1980 down), $150 shipped with the MC. I also have this worked up for many other rigs. Spacers/moounting assemblies are an additional cost when required, these will work for every year FSJ by tweaking a few things. If you have done brake upgrades, have a good solid system but just don't think it's up to what you'd really like... this system will knock your socks off.
New additions: I finished a IH Scout II (see below). The Jeep TJ hydroboost fitting turned out a winner. The Jeep ZJ hydroboost mount has been completed and installed. I have worked up most of what I need to do an install on a '57-'58 Buick. Let me know if I can work out something new for you.... I've had requests for.. like an '84 Camaro... etc. I shipped a '67 Camaro hdyroboost for trial fit, and I'm currently looking at doing a C-4 Corvette.
Below is a pic of the new hydroboost I have for sale ('93-'95 P30/3500 one ton van) with the new stainless mount. These HBs have the smaller hole at the front so they won't fit the ~'2000+ disc/disc GM master cylinders without the addition of an adaptor... but I'll consider doing those for folks if needed or you can use other disc/disc masters such as the '78 Corvette. They all have a threaded/removable brake rods for adjustment or coupling to someone's existing MC rod if required. These are exceptionally hard to come across so I bought a supply of them while I could. If you want one and want a longer accumulator I do have a few of those left. I'll be adding pics at some point to show what all I can do with various rotations using my newer single flange mounting plate. Nobody out there has anything close to what you can do with this as far as rotations/adaptations to other MCs, trust me on that because this is what I do every week.
***Pricing on the new units here are $275 for the HB without the MC or mounting plate, shipped, make that $328 shipped with a painted mount, $353 with the MC, or $398 shipped with a stainless mount (while the small supply of stainless mounts lasts, the next run might be double...) the stainless plates are cut a little oversize and are blank for the bolt pattern to keep them more universal, the fit and drill is up to you but it is a pretty close match to the aluminum firewall block.... too narrow for a CJ, but will fit a TJ and many other vehicles at 5x5".
Shown with a single flange stainless mount:
Shown with P30 master cylinder: (these new hydroboosts are also available with a longer accumulator for another $50)
Here are the master cylinder rotater/adapter plates, these are available now with whatever you need for just about any MC and I have many master cylinders too, just ask:
>>>Ask me about the AMC V8 dual power steering pump setup I've worked up to run a designated pump for HB so you can use the primary pump for steering assist and have plenty of flow using any HB from the Astro on up. Or join/follow the discussion here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=112665 It gives you 1500PSI designated strickly to your HB and mounts under your current PS pump so you can easily add a remote reservoir. Only one pressure hose is required (if I'm right, need to verify this). I've thought about this for almost three years and now this should be on the proving grounds in Bridgeport shortly. In order to purchase these the brackets are linked to here in the vendor section at: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...04#post1042804<<<
Last edited by Elliott : 08-31-2010 at 08:34 PM.
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07-13-2009, 06:47 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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Want some info?
Last edited by Elliott : 07-31-2010 at 10:46 AM.
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07-13-2009, 06:48 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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Some questions your might have:
What the heck is hydroboost?
Hydroboost is a hydraulic brake booster that replaces your vacuum booster, it results in ~2-3x the braking pressure for the same amount of pedal pressure as vacuum operated brakes. It runs off of your power steering pump.
If it runs off my power steering pump and my pump dies, the belt breaks, or the engine quits how do I stop?
Well if you have vacuum brakes and your engine quits how do you stop? On manual brakes, and isn't that a grunt? So, there is an advantage to hydroboost in those circumstances because it has an accumulator for residual pressure in the event of losing the pump. The accumulator is the gold cylinder usually seen on the right side of the unit, it's filled with 1,500 psi of nitrogen and when your pump is running it fills the chamber with PS fluid and compresses a piston. Provided you have a full charge of nitrogen in your accumulator (yes they can go bad) you will have 2-3 full power brake applications in the event you lose the pump... before you switch to manual brakes.
Will my power steering pump be adequate to run both the brakes and the power steering?
In most cases the answer will be yes. If your pump is already on it's last legs than it will be obvious when you add the additional work load of the HB. Because the HB requres very little of the pump's pressure typically the only time you might notice a drain on your power steering capacity is while you are applying the brakes and turning at very slow speeds with large tires in an offroad situation. If you encounter that situation you can 1) upgrade to a higher performance PS pump, 2) swap in a pressure relief valve from a GM dually truck PS pump that was in a hydroboosted system, 3) figure a way to swap on a GM power steering reservoir can that had the additional return line nipple so you can eliminate the barbed hose T-fitting that are included in the kits I sell.
Can I run a second PS pump on my AMC V8 strictly for the hydroboost so I can run my steering assist off the primary pump?
You sure can and there are a number of ways to add another pump to an AMC V8. I've designed some brackets that locates another pump directly below your primary pump in the space where the air pump used to locate and this uses the same brackets and belt. You need to use an AMC 5" dual groove ps pulley on the second pump to match the primary pump and this has only been worked up for the two groove alternator set up so far. Currently the system is about to be trail tested. Follow the development at: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=112665
Can I just use my master cylinder or do I need to buy one with the Astro HB?
Some of the Jeep master cylinders will not work the HB for a couple of different reasons. If you already have an OEM aluminum MC (1981+) it's not going to fit into the HB so you will need to either buy one with the Astro HB or source your own elsewhere (the stub end of the MC needs to be 1 1/2" to fit into the HB, no larger on most HBs. The bolt spacing is 3 7/16). If your MC is iron and installed on a currently vacuum assisted Jeep from 1980 to 1974 you can retain your MC if you like, it will bolt directly to the Astro HB and you will have one less hydraulic system to bleed on installation. For Jeeps prior to 1974 I recommend replacing your OEM master cylinder and most cases will require it (I'm not recommending the modifications it would take to make some of those work). Whatever MC you use with this HB it will require a shallow dimple on the piston as pictured on here:
I need to replace my master cylinder also, how do I bench bleed it so my brakes bleed faster?
Check out these instructions here:
How much do hoses cost, where do I get them and what are the part numbers?
You will need, at the minimum, two pressure hoses and six feet of return line. Plan to buy six 3/8" hose clamps for the return line as well. You can buy the hoses anywhere you want, I priced them at about $50 for all of it at AutoZone... and that's for the cheaper ones. I'm not going to give you the part numbers because they really aren't that helpful and will even slow you down if you try to use them at AutoZone due to their inventory system.
1) If you have a 1980+ Jeep and your power steering system is stock then you have metric 0-ring fittings and you can simply ask for power steering hoses for a 1989 GM dually 3500 with a 350 engine and hydroboost.
2) If you have a 1979 down Jeep and your power steering system is stock then you have flared hose fittings and those are going to require adapting to the metric 0-ring fittings of the hydroboost I sell. (see below)
3) For stainless braided hoses and fittings you can order those through: http://www.hydratechbraking.com/ I can provide the part numbers for you and have priced this out at $89.95 for the hoses and $148.02 for fittings required to adapt to 3/8 flare pump/steering box using the barbed hose return Tee fitting, prices will vary with optional fittings. This totals $237.97 and that did not include shipping.
4) If you want to source your own 3/8 barbed hose fitting for the return line you can find them here: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/barb.html
Are the GM hoses a direct bolt up?
They will bolt straight up to the hydroboost. At the pump and power steering box it requires that you bend the hoses to match. Pictures will be posted as to how to bend them later in this thread.
Does it matter how I hook up the T-fitting for the return line?
It is critical that the T-fitting is installed in only one way or you will have trouble with your system. Here's the correct way to plumb it:
That reservoir on the Astro/Safari hydroboost looks kind of small, is that going to work with the rear disc brakes I plan to use?
The Astro/Safari reservoir is adequate for disc/drum applications, not for disc/disc setups. You can remove and replace the reservoir with one from your Jeep MC if you have the plastic reservoir (1981+) or take one from a GM truck in a parts yard. On occassion I can do the swap for you if you request it. If you do it yourself (some reservoirs will be brittle from heat and shatter) when you go to re-install it place the grommets in the master cylinder first and then plug the reservoir in.
What if my truck has drum brakes all the way around, will this still work?
Not necessarily, but the set up is more involved. You have to source a few more parts and drill two additional 3/8" holes in your firewall (I'm designing a new mount to use all your existing bolt holes so check on availability). Your brakes must not have any imbalance before doing this.
Will I need to add a residual pressure valve to my brake system to use this with all discs or all drums, and which one would I use?
Yes, if you have all drum brakes you may wish to add a 10Lb. residual pressure valve to the line that serves your front brakes although some who've done this will tell you it's not necessary (the rear port on the Astro master cylinder serves the front brakes). If you plan to run all discs you are best off to add a 2Lb. residual pressure valve to the line that serves your rear brakes, but again some will tell you they felt it wasn't required (the front port on the Astro master cylinder serves the rear brakes). These are available from Summit Racing for about $20.00.
What if I have really crappy brakes, my wheel cylinders are crude, shoes are old, hard brake lines are pitted and rubber lines are cracked... this is going to improve my brakes still?
No, it will make your brakes more likely to fail due to the increased pressure. Bring your system up to safe operating conditions prior to considering installing a hydroboost system.
Can I use cheapo power steering fluid?
I don't advise it. Howe Performance recommends using GM Goodwrench PN: 89020661.
Should I add a filter?
A filter is a great idea, it cost more... maybe $30 for some. You can place it in the return line between the T-fitting and the PS pump reservoir. Clean fluid is the key to hydroboost longevity. Look up AC Delco PF833 (that may be a Purolator #) for ~$12.00.
Last edited by Elliott : 07-26-2010 at 06:39 AM.
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07-13-2009, 06:48 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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Let's see some more pics...
If you are building custom hoses using JIC 90* swivel fittings and need to know the part numbers for the respective AN-6 port adapters here they are:
Steering box pressure out, 11/16x18 flare: Aeroquip # FBM2965
Steering box pressure out, 18x1.5mm: Aeroquip # FBM2609
Pump pressure out, 5/8x18 flare: Aeroquip # FBM2964
Pump pressure out, 16x1.5mm: Aeroquip # FBM2608
HB pressure in, 18x1.5mm: Aeroquip # FBM2609
HB pressure out, 16x1.5mm: Aeroquip # FBM2608
HB return out (if not using the hose barb) 5/16x24 o-ring Boss:
Here are the pics for where to bend the two '89 GM 3500 (with hydroboost) pressure hoses to match your pump and box, be careful not to kink them as the HB requires full flow. After they are bent you can cut the very ends at the pump and box if you have flared fittings and install the respective nuts from your old hose and reflare. (alternatively you could buy 18 & 16mm insert adapters for the HB (shown in the first pic below) and use flare fitting hoses without having to cut the ends)
Lee Manufacturing Co
11661 Pendleton St
Sun Valley, CA 91352
818-768-0371
(Double check these part numbers are for the 18 & 16 mm HB ports)
Pressure 40620 $3.97
Return 40630 $3.97
Hose bend, how to:
I'm running a big block and need all the room I can get, can I run this thing upside down for more valve cover clearance?
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I'm running a 6 cylinder with a weber carb and need more clearance at the throttle rod, can I run this thing upside down?
Yes, it can be installed upside down and will operate just fine. You will need to work with the hoses fitting up inverted and it will take a little longer to bleed air from the system but it will work.
Ask me about custom rotations other than 180* if interested.
What does it look like installed in a FSJ with a 1" spacer?
This is in a 1980 using the OEM MC, later rigs with the later style cruise control servo require the servo to be relocated on the inner fender:
Here's another pic of it installed in a FSJ using a 1" spacer, with the Astro MC and a Jeep plastic reservoir: (pardon the filth...)
Wonder if you have hood clearance for the late model '03+ GM unit with the tall MC reservoir? It fits:
IH C1000 Series Hydroboost Installation:
How do I know if my hydroboost has a staked or removable rod end?
Custom brake rods for the removable rod hydroboosts (held in place by a grommet):
I built my own mount and need to shortened my own rod, what is the best way and how short can I make it?
Cut/thread 3/8x24tpi and use a coupler with jam nuts. Don't thread it up past where you need to hold it with the vise grips or the jam nut will hit the HB casting when the pedal is fully depressed. Before you start, be sure you have enough OD on the rod to give you enough depth on the threads... some rods don't. Here's a pic of how far up you can thread the rod:
How can I be sure it won't bind and that I have enough pedal travel?
First, check to be sure you have gap at the pedal and pedal assembly crossbar at rest so you know you don't have a constant, partial on situation:
Then, check to be sure that as you articulate the pedal you don't have binding that occurs between any part of the rod and the back of the hydroboost casting:

Last edited by Elliott : 08-10-2010 at 05:53 PM.
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07-13-2009, 06:50 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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Last edited by Elliott : 08-23-2010 at 11:57 AM.
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07-13-2009, 06:51 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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So what do folks think who've installed one of these units?
Here's some feedback I've gotten:
IFSJA member jc8:
Bought hb/mc/pv
“I bought a complete kit from you off of Ebay.
I thought I would share my experience if there are still doubters!!!
Now first off I have a CJ8 with a swapped in AMC 360 and 727.
The axles are C303 portal axles. Drums at all four corners.
I had a dual diaphragm booster and mc from '85 GW. The brakes were not impressive to say the least!
I made my own spacer, should have bought one from you guys!!!
Everything bolted up. I bled the brakes and all I can say is THANK-YOU.
I've hated having an auto when I came to a descent on the trail, now I can actually control the Jeep!!! JUST FRIGGIN' AWESOME!!!!
Oh yeah I'm on 42s!
JC
Ps. I should add that A TREMENDOUS amount of fabrication was done long before I did the HB swap. I don't want anyone to think they can just bolt up a GW booster in to a CJ!!!!”
IFSJA member Billy Bob:
Bought a hb for his ’80 Cherokee WT
“I am still lovin my hydro boost. Best mod ever on a lifted SJ with larger than stock tires. Nothin like stopping on a dime and getting change back!”
IFSJA member Hutti:
Bought hb/mc. Installed on an ’87 Grand Wagoneer
“Yeeeeeehaaaw! Can't believe how well this works. Thanks for your help and carrying the info together. I just finished it this afternoon and I was able to lock up all 4 tires (35")...actually scared me.
I reused the original steering pump to gear hose...a little bending on the pump side and voila. The hose suggested from the HB to the gear is perfect, as if it was made for a HB retrofit on a Waggy.
ohhh, I did replace the Astro reservoir with the waggy reservoir (got discs in the rear)....it is much easier to get the reservoir back on if you first put the black rubber seals onto the MC and then push the reservoir in.”
IFSJA member londonhogfan:
Bought hb. Installed on 1977 Cherokee.
“It's not a direct bolt in. You have to do a little playn with the lines. I recommend the spacer.... made life much easier.
Took us a couple of hours (hardest part was getting the passenger side lower bolt off the freaking vacuum booster)
It was worth every second (and penny) it took to get it going. It's amazing the difference it makes.
Spacer works great. Was able to get the brake pedal pin right in.”
IFSJA member djmac:
Bought hb/mc. Installed on ’82 J10 w/Ford 460, 35” TSLs.
“It's installed and what a difference. It's still doing a lot moaning and groaning 'cause I did not do a very good job of avoid air bubbles but I figure that will work itself out in the next few days. It has a totally different feel than vacuum assist but much more powerful. It made a lot more for the 460 too. I used the Astro booster and Master Cylinder the fittings fit perfectly in the Astro M/C.”
IFSJA member 83waggy:
Bought hb. Used a YJ master cylinder that looks just like an Astro MC. Installed on ’83 Wagoneer w/33” MTRs.
“These units are awesome, the stopping power is so much more it is like night and day. Installation is simple.”
IFSJA member Cecil 14:
Bought hb/mc. Installed on ’83 J10 with 4.6L stroker, 33” tires.
“I used the Astro booster upside down with the Astro MC and Jeep reservoir.It's finally done! The motor runs great and the hydroboost is AMAZING. The slightest touch of the pedal and she stops RIGHT now. I think together with the rear disks this is definitely the ultimate brake combo. I'm very happy with the results and thank you greatly for your help putting it together. If I even breath on the pedal those 33's are standing still. I LOVE IT!”
IFSJA member outagas:
Bought hb. Installed on his ’73 J10 with all drum brakes (fabbed a long rod to fit his deep style plunger on his OEM MC).
“Just finished the hydro boost install on my 73 j4000.For those of you with the 73 and older trucks with drum brakes you need to do this. There have been many close calls in my truck because of my stopping abilities. Now I can stop on a dime. Those of you who have done this know what I’m talking about. It was fairly inexpensive and worth every penny. I bought everything threw Elliott at a great price and his tech support and knowledge was priceless. (Thanks for everything Elliott) For sure the best mod you can do on our old trucks.”
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07-13-2009, 06:52 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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Other questions that come up?
I want to run disc/disc and understand some guys feel the disc/drum proportioning valve has worked well for them but I would rather use a disc/disc proportioning valve, what options are there for me?
1) Check my for sale listings first, some of my late model units were designed for disc/disc. If you buy the hydroboost from me I include that proportioning valve (when available) with the hydroboost at no addition charge.
2) BJ's Offroad sells a disc/disc prop valve for ~$105 that replaces your OEM valve. http://www.bjsoffroad.com/CartGenie/...st.asp?scat=73

3) BJ's Offroad sells an adjustable valve for $50. http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/...pid=986&cid=10

4) For another option on the adjustable valve there is a seller on Ebay that lists one for $70 shipped. See: classic_performance_cpp
Can I run a PS cooler with this?
Certainly, make sure it is installed down line from the T-fitting in the return line if a T-fitting is used. Do not use a cooler that is more than two pass. A member here will be doing some flow tests on the std two pass as well as the plate type coolers, stay tuned for feedback.
Can this be used in combination with steering assist?
My feeling is that with modifications it will work fine in many applications in combination with steering assist. This will be explored more but there are things you can do to improve/hot rod your HB without having it "flowed". Using a smaller (less than 2") steering assist cylinder would benefit in this situation. The best case scenario, IMO, is to run a dual PS pump setup and you can fab your own or I sell most of the parts to do it for an AMC V8: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=115107
How can I get the most out of my low speed performance?
You can get the most out of your HB by eliminating the T-fitting in the return line. In many cases you will never find the need to do this but if you have a doubled transfer case and running some seriious crawl ratio with an auto tranny and you rock crawl then you want all the low rpm performance you can get. Install/braze a second return nipple to the side of your PS reservoir can. Also, if you don't already have a high flow pump then go to the wrecking yard and pull the relief valve and spring out of a similar year range one ton truck that had HB (you want to stay consistent with either 3/8" flare fittings or metric o-ring, depending on what you have in your rig). Install this in your pump and it will boost you from 1,100/1,300 psi to 1,500 psi.
One more way is to run the dual PS pump system on the AMC V8 so you can run a second pump with all 1,500 PSI designated strictly to the HB  Check out the parts I've put together at: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=115107
Last edited by Elliott : 06-04-2010 at 01:18 PM.
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07-13-2009, 09:23 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 03, 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 21
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will the HB work on a '67 Wagoneer that has stock brakes? I'm just not comfortable driving it here in southern california traffic the way the brakes are.....what mods would be required to make it work?
Thanks!
Chad
__________________
1967 327 Wagoneer
1971 AMG M151A2 Mutt
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8
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07-13-2009, 09:36 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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The slightly lighter hitting Astro HB would work in your application. You do want your hoses and seals all in good shape. You have to have at least a power steering pump. This would require a mounting assembly and the hoses would need to be adapted to your flared fittings but it's not a big deal, I cover all that above in the questions and some of the decriptions of details (above).
Send me an email through the forum if you want some help sorting this out.
Elliott
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08-07-2009, 12:50 AM
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Murphy's Law Poster Child
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Join Date: Dec 03, 2003
Location: Fairplay, Colorado
Posts: 8,930
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Any news on the IH trial yet?
__________________
You know it's bad when your car's on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
'82 J10
'67 M416
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08-07-2009, 08:12 AM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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He has it in there and it's working for him but I need to get back to him for some updates as I'm also trying to revise the mounting plate for a more universal/less work installation. The setup we worked up fits though.
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08-26-2009, 04:57 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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Some new hydroboost mounts being test fit right now... These all have the Astro bolt pattern on the hydroboost mounting plate. Why? ...because it is the only plate that will let you rotate the HB 180* while not changing the angle on the master cylinder. If you have something other than an Astro HB I sell the Astro repro mounting plates on ebay.
CJ with 6* built in (this is the design for former vacuum brake equiped firewalls, the two bolt firewall for manual MC will take the FSJ firewall bolt pattern assembly):
'55-'57 Chevy (+) with 6* angle built in:
Working it up for a '67-'69 Camaro, ~'59 Ford, '66 Buick, '69 Buick, '76 Impala, '84 Camaro, Jeep TJ, and I think the YJ is slightly different.... stay tuned.
If you are reading this and not a member here you can reach me through my ebay listing. If you have something custom in mind let me know if this doesn't cover it.
Last edited by Elliott : 08-26-2009 at 05:03 PM.
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08-29-2009, 04:32 PM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Nov 14, 2000
Location: Rochester Hills, MI USA
Posts: 1,283
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Pic of the brake pedal
Elliott, here is a pic of the brake pedal of fthe 1986 Jeep J20, which you asked for. PLEASE NOTE that the center of the arm pivot starts at the 2.0" mark and measures down to 5.75" on the booster arm mount, so it is 3.75" between centers.
I also have a J20 pedal from a stick-shift truck, mid 1980's also, if you would like a dimension off that one.

__________________
Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2": 330" AMC stroker V8. NV3550 5-speed. 6" lift 33" BFG A/T's. Killer32 front bumper & DozerII rear swing-out bumper ... Oh Yeah! And a FISH Carburetor!
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08-29-2009, 06:54 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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Thanks Greg, it's the same for the manual tranny brake pedal with the 7/16 pin for the MC rod. However, on the Kaiser rigs that have the 5/8 pin the distance is 4.25 on a auto pedal so I'm thinking with the my HB mounts I probably should have 6* angle on the rod so there is no binding. Will check out those options. Thanks for the help there. 
Last edited by Elliott : 08-29-2009 at 07:04 PM.
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08-29-2009, 07:00 PM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Nov 14, 2000
Location: Rochester Hills, MI USA
Posts: 1,283
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Elliott,
You're most welcome for the help.
__________________
Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2": 330" AMC stroker V8. NV3550 5-speed. 6" lift 33" BFG A/T's. Killer32 front bumper & DozerII rear swing-out bumper ... Oh Yeah! And a FISH Carburetor!
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10-29-2009, 06:08 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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New Hose Configuration
I picked up some '89 GM C2500 hydroboost hoses today. They are shorter than the '85 hoses and the HB to gearbox hose is a bolt up, with what appears to be little to no bending. The pump to HB required bending and it's a lil tricky at the pump.
Anyway, I think the shorter hoses will be appreciated and here's a pic of how they lay out differently at the HB end of things:

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11-25-2009, 11:11 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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You know... I'd be in the yards tomorrow picking up more HB's if they were open for Thanksgiving. Looks like i'll make a parts run Friday so if you want an astro HB send me an email now and I'll set one aside. I can take a 3/4-1 ton and cut the rod down also... and have three of those right now.
Check my first post here if interested in a dual pump set up for the AMC V8, that gives you a designated pump strictly for your HB.... it's being trail tested soon.
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12-26-2009, 12:03 PM
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Cowboy Up
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Join Date: Jun 22, 2002
Location: Decatur, TX
Posts: 12,558
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Have now added a Scout II hydroboost setup, see the first post here for pics. I'll add more when it's installed.
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01-24-2010, 06:17 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Jan 04, 2010
Location: Frisco, Tx
Posts: 254
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Could I come pay you a visit and have you install it for me? if so how much?
__________________
1981 J20
soa/sf
36x12.5x16.5 Goodyear Military oz
no rust!
Status: Running
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