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Nice ride! Any updates?
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J-trucks with Brows RULE!!! -
Updates? Yea, I need the following parts and can not find them online
and I wrote the mfg and he is out of the office till the 17th
ATL Fuel Products
I need;
1- ATL-TF268
and I would opt for 24" of the -6 hose too but no biggy there...
My 44MAG Fuel tank is in my sights now, I hired a body guy tonight (we will see if he shows next week) I have new SS brake lines in house now and ready to install as well.
I need to figure out fuel supply lines from the 44MAG tank (it has a STOCK, from BJs) pickup and sender. THAT is why I want the TF268, I have modified things and I want the fuel pickup to reside at the REAR of the massive tank. I would perfer to run out of fuel going downhill, not up, thank you...
, but I still need to figure out what I am going to do for my fuel plumbing. Any suggestions? I guess I will run the fuel line in the same clips as the brake main line thru the frame, I would love some links to see what others have done that rocks...
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Artisan, I have a few questions for you. What is the part number off the 205's PTO? Did you buy it new (if so where)? I've been to a couple of truck supply places locally and they haven't been able to find a part number for me.
Looks great so far! I'll be doing the same with my gladiator soon (once it cools down).The eternal project -'87 6.2 diesel, '75 cherokee chassis, t-18 & dana 20, & WT dana 44's(rear lock-right, front trac-lok) , '67 j-3000 cab ('75 dash & pedals, '67 column, "leather" astro bench), '33 IH D-1 (Willys Six C-113) bed.
'66 cj-6a tuxedo park
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What kind of kit did you use on the rear brakes?Originally posted by ArtisanDisk brakes at all four corners, CHECK!
Dan Rowe
84 Wagoneer 4" lift 32x11.5Originally posted by fulsizjeep
77 J 20 Chevy 350 35x12.5
89 Cherokee 3" lift 31x10.5Comment
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How did you hook the compressors up to work together and not against each other? I've got to 20 gallon 6hp compressors and I was told not to hook then together into manifold because the work against each other.Originally posted by Artisan
PLEASE any tips would help, I also have a ton of blasting to do.88 GW SOA, shacke flip 35x12.5x15 Baja Claws
77 J10 StockComment
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Looking great. Keep us posted on your progress.FSJless.... for now....Comment
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Ahhh, the PTO, man that was a real chore figurin' that puppy out. I remember having to drop in on a few *PTO repair companies and forcing them to give me AWNSERS! Basterds!Originally posted by uglyjeep
Anywho mine, I believe, is a Chlsea 381 Series, Lever Control (An optional air control is available me thinks) and I believe it turns 87% of the current RPMS of the motor, meaning if the engine is spinnin' at 10,000 RPM's the PTO will be screamin' away at 8700 RPM's 
*Screw truck supply's, go directly to PTO Repair Companies bro...Comment
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Dan, find member ZACK of ZMJEEPS on this board, tell him I sent you for the good price.Originally posted by CarleysjeepComment
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On one compressor install a "T" on the outlet, you now have 2 outlet holes, one of them goes to the blaster, the other goes to the other compressor. Set the pressure of both compressors same. When you dump lots of air both compressors should kick on.Originally posted by mudjammer
BE SURE your not restricking your air anyplace. LOOK at your quick disconnects, inside them, some of them severly restrict the air flow thus reducing the VOLUMN of air going thru them. I have drilled them out in the past, BUT, if you drill to much and you go to use your air and you get NO AIR, it is because you drilled to much , been there done that. I believe you want to be sure your using 3/8" hose and fittings as well, not 1/4"
Now the bad news. You have to have "so many" CFM's of air for the size nozzle your using or you can't work efficiently. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you CLICK HERE and go read the science on this at TexasBlaster .com's website, he does a GREAT job of explaining this stuff. As for the bad news, my 80 Gallon, 7HP Compressor is barely enough to do a good job and it is something like 17.2 SCFM. Yes I ponied up the lil compressor to it and it helps some, you need a lot more air bro OR maybe build a storage tank somehow. Go read the stuff...Last edited by Artisan; 08-16-2009, 08:14 AM.Comment
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I didn't show in pics properly my driveline offsets and I will do it in this post. I did explain the rear diff was offset from the TC by 4" but I did'nt post the pic, here is both pics together. Zack says aim the rear diff at the TC and use a Double Cardan at the TC and call it good. Any other opinions?
AND...........
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Does look like you're into double cardan territory there. I'd suggest not putting too much work into it until it's mostly put back together (body, glass, full of fuel) because the angles could change compared to the bare chassis...Langdon
Gone but not forgotten:
'79 Model 17 "Cherokee S" 360/TH400/BW1339/44,44/3.51
'80 Model 17 "Cherokee S" 305 Vortec FI/4L60E/241C/44,20/3.73Comment
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Yep, I do believe so, and yes, I am not trying to fit right now, just gather info...Originally posted by Langdon
...and as important is the mating of the TC, TRANS, AND ENGINE as it will align the TC to the crossmember I made while the truck was together and yes the weight will change things as well, not to much though, the springs are pretty tight.Comment
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I am in need of a 3/8" X "LONG"* 90 Degree Preformed FUEL HOSE, rubber is fine. Any iodeas where to obtain said gents? Here is a pic of what I search for...
*12" maybe? I will entertain anythg close...Comment
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Could you use 3/8 steel brake/fuel tube and then just couple the ends with short pieces of rubber tubing?*** I am collecting pics and info on any factory Jeep Dually trucks from the J-Series at the new Jeep Dually Registry.
***I can set you up with hydroboost for your brakes: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106056Comment
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Yes I could, and I have considered it but it introduces TWO more barbed connections w/ hose clamps and I am trying to make it clean with all AN conections. Also room (lack of) constrictions apply. Perhaps the awnser in right in front of me, if I could go AN directly to barb I would be in there...but I see no AN fitting to cover the end of a sawed off piece of SS Braided flex AND it is too tight a radius, tis why I want a preformed, 90 degree, 3/8" x long leg fuel line in rubber.Originally posted by Elliott
This is the connection from the pickup tube at the tank and my config, due to baffles in the 44MAG tank, has caused the feed tube to aim at a 45, forward, towards the passenger side of the chassis. A rubber, tight radius 90 makes it kinda perfect back into align w/ my plumbin', which is 3/8" Aluminum (Blue) tubing w/ Blue Nuts and Red Sleeves. (The truck is keying on Black and Blue w/ a tiny splash of red here and there.
tits pierre !
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