Nice ride! Any updates?
Frame Off J10
Collapse
X
-
Updates? Yea, I need the following parts and can not find them online
and I wrote the mfg and he is out of the office till the 17th
ATL Fuel Products
I need;
1- ATL-TF268
and I would opt for 24" of the -6 hose too but no biggy there...
My 44MAG Fuel tank is in my sights now, I hired a body guy tonight (we will see if he shows next week) I have new SS brake lines in house now and ready to install as well.
I need to figure out fuel supply lines from the 44MAG tank (it has a STOCK, from BJs) pickup and sender. THAT is why I want the TF268, I have modified things and I want the fuel pickup to reside at the REAR of the massive tank. I would perfer to run out of fuel going downhill, not up, thank you... , but I still need to figure out what I am going to do for my fuel plumbing. Any suggestions? I guess I will run the fuel line in the same clips as the brake main line thru the frame, I would love some links to see what others have done that rocks...
Comment
-
-
Artisan, I have a few questions for you. What is the part number off the 205's PTO? Did you buy it new (if so where)? I've been to a couple of truck supply places locally and they haven't been able to find a part number for me.
Looks great so far! I'll be doing the same with my gladiator soon (once it cools down).The eternal project -'87 6.2 diesel, '75 cherokee chassis, t-18 & dana 20, & WT dana 44's(rear lock-right, front trac-lok) , '67 j-3000 cab ('75 dash & pedals, '67 column, "leather" astro bench), '33 IH D-1 (Willys Six C-113) bed.
'66 cj-6a tuxedo park
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by ArtisanDisk brakes at all four corners, CHECK!
Dan Rowe
Originally posted by fulsizjeepI don't think an apology is needed. Most of us are pretty opinionated even when we are wrong.
77 J 20 Chevy 350 35x12.5
89 Cherokee 3" lift 31x10.5
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by ArtisanElliott I go outside, shoot a pot-full of Kleen Blast then I strip to the chonies on the back porch, tip toe to the shower chonies and all and strip some more then hose down...drink a Heineken Light, kick-it a bit then I go out and sweep up what I shot, screen it into a wheelbarrow an then load the pot. Then, you guessed it, time for a quick rinse and of COARSE a brewski and a kick back then I suit up, and start all over. So far about 12 or so pot full have gone through the texasblaster . It works GOOD w/ an 80 Gallon 7HP compressor with a lil twin tank compressor plumbing into it as well taking up some slack. It is enough air to keep a .25" nozzle going great w/o stopping for the compressors to keep up w/ me. My new lil Blast Pot ROCKS! I am VERY pleased w/ it's performance and the price was killer!
PLEASE any tips would help, I also have a ton of blasting to do.88 GW SOA, shacke flip 35x12.5x15 Baja Claws
77 J10 Stock
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by uglyjeepArtisan, I have a few questions for you. What is the part number off the 205's PTO? Did you buy it new (if so where)? I've been to a couple of truck supply places locally and they haven't been able to find a part number for me.
Looks great so far! I'll be doing the same with my gladiator soon (once it cools down).
*Screw truck supply's, go directly to PTO Repair Companies bro...
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by mudjammerHow did you hook the compressors up to work together and not against each other? I've got to 20 gallon 6hp compressors and I was told not to hook then together into manifold because the work against each other.
PLEASE any tips would help, I also have a ton of blasting to do.
BE SURE your not restricking your air anyplace. LOOK at your quick disconnects, inside them, some of them severly restrict the air flow thus reducing the VOLUMN of air going thru them. I have drilled them out in the past, BUT, if you drill to much and you go to use your air and you get NO AIR, it is because you drilled to much , been there done that. I believe you want to be sure your using 3/8" hose and fittings as well, not 1/4"
Now the bad news. You have to have "so many" CFM's of air for the size nozzle your using or you can't work efficiently. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you CLICK HERE and go read the science on this at TexasBlaster .com's website, he does a GREAT job of explaining this stuff. As for the bad news, my 80 Gallon, 7HP Compressor is barely enough to do a good job and it is something like 17.2 SCFM. Yes I ponied up the lil compressor to it and it helps some, you need a lot more air bro OR maybe build a storage tank somehow. Go read the stuff...Last edited by Artisan; 08-16-2009, 08:14 AM.
Comment
-
-
I didn't show in pics properly my driveline offsets and I will do it in this post. I did explain the rear diff was offset from the TC by 4" but I did'nt post the pic, here is both pics together. Zack says aim the rear diff at the TC and use a Double Cardan at the TC and call it good. Any other opinions?
AND...........
Comment
-
-
Does look like you're into double cardan territory there. I'd suggest not putting too much work into it until it's mostly put back together (body, glass, full of fuel) because the angles could change compared to the bare chassis...Langdon
Gone but not forgotten:
'79 Model 17 "Cherokee S" 360/TH400/BW1339/44,44/3.51
'80 Model 17 "Cherokee S" 305 Vortec FI/4L60E/241C/44,20/3.73
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by LangdonDoes look like you're into double cardan territory there. I'd suggest not putting too much work into it until it's mostly put back together (body, glass, full of fuel) because the angles could change compared to the bare chassis...
...and as important is the mating of the TC, TRANS, AND ENGINE as it will align the TC to the crossmember I made while the truck was together and yes the weight will change things as well, not to much though, the springs are pretty tight.
Comment
-
-
I am in need of a 3/8" X "LONG"* 90 Degree Preformed FUEL HOSE, rubber is fine. Any iodeas where to obtain said gents? Here is a pic of what I search for...
*12" maybe? I will entertain anythg close...
Comment
-
-
Could you use 3/8 steel brake/fuel tube and then just couple the ends with short pieces of rubber tubing?*** I am collecting pics and info on any factory Jeep Dually trucks from the J-Series at the new Jeep Dually Registry.
***I can set you up with hydroboost for your brakes: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106056
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by ElliottCould you use 3/8 steel brake/fuel tube and then just couple the ends with short pieces of rubber tubing?
This is the connection from the pickup tube at the tank and my config, due to baffles in the 44MAG tank, has caused the feed tube to aim at a 45, forward, towards the passenger side of the chassis. A rubber, tight radius 90 makes it kinda perfect back into align w/ my plumbin', which is 3/8" Aluminum (Blue) tubing w/ Blue Nuts and Red Sleeves. (The truck is keying on Black and Blue w/ a tiny splash of red here and there.
tits pierre !
Comment
-
Comment