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It may very be an illusion, but it looks to me as though the passenger side of the radiator is hitting the frame. If so, vibration will eat a whole in it very quickly. If not, please disregard this message!
Cool swap!
You ever wonder what medieval cook looked at the guts of a pig and thought, "I bet if you washed out that poop tube, you could stuff it with meat and eat it."
I worked last night on designing my engine mounts. I have decided to go with more of an engine mount/crossmember. I set the motor in place and then took all my measurement. Then I laid it out on a piece of plywood and cut out a template. It took several different revisions to get it just how I like it, but this is my final design. There will be two of these. One in front and one in rear of the engine mounts. I am going to try to get them cut out of steel today and cleaned up and then tacked in place enough to hold the motor. Once I pull the motor back out, I will final weld everything up. I am also going to connect the two plates with some steal strap to make it more rigid. With this cradle and the heavy front bumper I am going to mount and brace back to the frame, I think the front end will be plenty stiff. I will just have to worry now about boxing in the back half of the frame.
Template test fit
Wood template
Life Priorities:
1. God
2. Wife
3. Children ( Lane )
4. Work
5. Wagoneer
It may very be an illusion, but it looks to me as though the passenger side of the radiator is hitting the frame. If so, vibration will eat a whole in it very quickly. If not, please disregard this message!
Cool swap!
You are not wrong. In the pictures the radiator is sitting on the frame. I have it mounted loosely right now using the slots on the side of the radiator. So, it is sitting in its final location front to back, but when I final install it, there will be at least a 1" gap between the frame and the bottom of the radiator. Good eye!
Life Priorities:
1. God
2. Wife
3. Children ( Lane )
4. Work
5. Wagoneer
That will be one beefy engine support. Are you going to have to raise the engine out of the support to move it forward or back, if you ever have to pull it? I don't think I quite understand the final product.
That will be one beefy engine support. Are you going to have to raise the engine out of the support to move it forward or back, if you ever have to pull it? I don't think I quite understand the final product.
It will work just like any engine mount, except that the two mounts will be tied together across the bottom of the motor. This will stiffen the frame in the front. It is very similar to how Eugene 1 mounted his motor in his Cherokee in post #65 of his build thread. We are just going about it differently.
Finally officially got the motor mounted. I am really happy with how how it turned out and engine placement. I could not believe how much the springs collapsed when I set the total wight of the motor on them. The springs compressed a total of 6" with the motor weight on them. The wagoneer looks pretty goofy from the side right now. I have already been talking to Off Road Design about a set of springs for the front. They are not listed on the website, but they make a custom set of springs for the 80's model Chevy trucks to hold the weight of a Cummins plus give good ride quality and flex. They said a total of 11" of flex. Nice!
In this picture you can see how the engine mount runs completely under the motor to the other side of frame. This is to help stiffen the frame. I will take a piece of 4" strap and weld between the engine mounts from frame to frame to tie the two together.
Here you can see how the engine mount runs completely under the motor. As of now there is only 1" between my highsteer drag link and the oil pan. This will change when I mount new springs.
Notice how flat these springs are with the motor weight on them.
That is a lot of rake from front to rear. Not the look I was going for, but it can be fixed.
Life Priorities:
1. God
2. Wife
3. Children ( Lane )
4. Work
5. Wagoneer
Looking great! Just a bit of sag.. Are those the stock wag springs up front tho?
Also, from a few posts back, why did you switch to the J20 steering box?
Keep it up!
Yes, they are stock wagoneer springs up front right now. I am most likely going to go with some custom springs from Off Road Design and also do a shackle reversal at the same time.
I switched to the J20 box because it is stronger than the stock waggy steering box and it bolts right in the same location. From what I understand the pistons are bigger in the J20 pump allowing for easier steering with bigger tires. I figured my tires are not going to be that big, but with the 6BT setting on top of them I could use all the extra help I can get.
Life Priorities:
1. God
2. Wife
3. Children ( Lane )
4. Work
5. Wagoneer
-BJ-
1989 Grand Wagoneer FOR SALE. PM me for details
D60f, D70r, 360/727/300 twin sticked, 37"s, 4w discs, 64" rear springs, RSF, SOA, blah, blah, blah
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