38.5" Tsls and minimal lift!

[Hammer]

Ok, got a set of 4" front springs (thanks Al!)

For now, I made brackets to lower the front brake lines.
I will be ordering some new stainless brake lines soon.

The rear WOULD have been done today but I couldn't find anyplace local that had the u-bolts I needed. I will get u-bolts tomorrow, and have the rear lifted in the next couple days.
I should also finally be getting the metal I need to finish the rear flares.

Anyways, a couple pictures.
I flexed it up, but I was hitting in the rear before I could fully flex the front. No pictures of that though.

I had a little rubbing on the bottom of the fender by the cab, I 'clearanced' that with a BFH and all is well!
I can turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and still have room!

[Brad W.]

Too bad the front springs on the choptop are NOT lift springs (like I had thought they were). So now I need some front lift springs.

ROFL. Glenn once had 2" alcans on the front of that choptop frame, was that what you thought was still on it? if so, they are sitting in my garage, hehe. btw- those are the same alcans that once sat under Whitefoot (RIP), if you remember andrew's old rig.

[Hammer]

ACK!
And yeah, I was vaguely thinking those to be the springs I had.
I DO have the shocks from Whitefoot though

[DanHS]

Nice work, looks good. I had been thinking of the same idea for my Chero since the rear fenders are pretty rusted out, but I started to change my mind. Seeing how well yours is looking makes me think it's still is the best idea, perhaps I'll get to it after I finally have the thing on the road. keep up the good work.

[AlsChopShop]

its looking bad-***!

it was good meeting you ed, wish i could have stayed longer to chat but all the family was in town for the old mans b-day. can't wait to see more progress!

Al

[Hammer]

Thanks guys!
I have wanted to do this for about a decade now. About darn time I got around to doing this!
Good to meet you as well Al. Nothing like a fast 3 hour drive to stop and turn around and go home! But family comes first, so no worries on my part.

I should have more progress by the weekend if I get my u bolts and metal for the flares tomorrow.

[FSJeeper]

I really like it. That thing is begging for some OD paint!

[Dmntxn77]

Do your rear wheel wells match up? From the pics it looks like the dirvers side forms around the shape of the tire perfectly, and the passenger side looks like it is trimmed higher..

[Hammer]

Do your rear wheel wells match up? From the pics it looks like the dirvers side forms around the shape of the tire perfectly, and the passenger side looks like it is trimmed higher..

The rears are the same height for trimming goes. Or at least close enough for what I was going for to start off with. Hard to tell from the photos because of the angles.
I picked up the metal for the flares today. So when I put that in, I will finalize the actual amount of trimming done. I have some final measuring to do, then I have to setup a jig for the plasma cutter. I am trying to get the rear to have the same amount of stickout for the rear flares as the front M715 flares have. I should be REAL close when it's done.

As for the OD paint. Not yet.
It will become all one color first, and that color will be gloss black. I already have everything for it, so it shouldn't be TOO long after I get this on the road that I also get it painted.

[Brad W.]

I DO have the shocks from Whitefoot though

ROFL, some how those just don't seem quite as important as custom alcans

[Hammer]

Turns out the passenger side was about 1/8" higher then the driverside. Not very much really, but there was a slight difference.

Been darn busy lately, but I got some time today to work on the rear flares. And I got the rear lift done on the weekend (just blocks for now).

I need a longer rear brake line, anyone have the napa part number for one that is about 6" or more longer then stock? I relocated the brackets for the front, but want/need another hose for the rear anyway, so I might as get a longer one, and one long enough for the SOA/SF when I get there.

Anyways, I got 1/8" metal for the flares. Man, that stuff is TOUGH to bend into a smooth arc!!!
Test fitted, measured the amount of stickout I wanted (matching the front M715 fender flares), cut with the plasma.
Then proceeded to sweat, curse, and sweat some more. It took a LOT of work to get that flat piece of metal into a smooth enough form to fit in the hole I made.
Welded up the flare to the inner fenderwell. Then went around and worked over the outter body skin to match up with the flare as best as possible before welding it all up.
Did turn out all that bad either! I still have to weld the both bottom ends, but that will require more cutting and bending before those fit like I want.
No pictures today, I should get some tomorrow I hope.

[Hammer]

Man, isn't that the truth....

ROFL, some how those just don't seem quite as important as custom alcans

[Brad W.]

here's a tip for a long strip of metal like that:

weld (more than a tack) an eyebolt or a ring (or link of chain) to the inside of the curve (the flat side that faces down to the road) on each end of the flare metal. now attach a chain or cable to each eyelet and use a turnbuckle to wind them up... this will curve without really making a bend... put them into the body holes and release (slowly!!) the turnbuckles to let the flare metal conform to the body opening. tack the flares on as you go to keep them lined up and in place. once the tension is off the chain/cable you can grind the links off and nobody will know.

you might have to start the curve but once its begun the turnbuckles will keep it there. they also offer quite a bit of small fit adjustment as you install the flares.

[FSJeeper]

The flares on the choptop were made by taking the flare strip of metal and wrapping it around a tire with a tiedown strap. Worked great and was easy to do.

[Hammer]

It's not really about making the roundness to it, it the fact that it has to fit OVER the lip I left of the inner fenderwell, and UNDER/INSIDE the outter body skin.
Holding it up and moving it around can be quite a PITA actually.
I got the curve fairly well done, but moving into position with everything fighting you at once is the real big pain. And you have to try and hold it up, 'finesse' it, and get it all into position.
I will be MUCH faster with the driver's side when I get to it though.