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  #221  
Old 05-02-2021, 06:36 PM
Driftwood's Avatar
Driftwood Driftwood is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jun 12, 2000
Posts: 958
Rob
It was a pleasure to meet you today and to see the "Baltic Blue & Tan" up close in person. It's great to see these Wags being rescued and restored instead of ending up in Jalopy Jungle's. Your vast personal stash of spare parts was impressive, but what caught my eye was the tailgate window. I've been in dire need of one for several years. I can't wait to get it installed into my 79.

YOU DA MAN!

Tailgate glass
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  #222  
Old 05-02-2021, 10:31 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Location: Camarillo, CA
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Ah man! I wish I had a super nice tailgate window like that! I probably could not afford one that nice though.
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  #223  
Old 05-03-2021, 05:08 AM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jun 12, 2000
Posts: 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Ah man! I wish I had a super nice tailgate window like that! I probably could not afford one that nice though.

I just tease. It's sitting here safely stored.
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  #224  
Old 05-03-2021, 07:27 AM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by Driftwood
Rob
It was a pleasure to meet you today and to see the "Baltic Blue & Tan" up close in person. It's great to see these Wags being rescued and restored instead of ending up in Jalopy Jungle's. Your vast personal stash of spare parts was impressive, but what caught my eye was the tailgate window. I've been in dire need of one for several years. I can't wait to get it installed into my 79.

YOU DA MAN!

Tailgate glass

Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Ah man! I wish I had a super nice tailgate window like that! I probably could not afford one that nice though.

LMAO!!
It was great chatting with you and Rena yesterday!
Hopefully I can get that poor thing launched from the garage soon.
I'll see what I can do to convince Marc to have you pick up that spare door too! LOL
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--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877
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  #225  
Old 05-04-2021, 07:22 AM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Late update to some weekend work. Had the upholstery shop recover a donor driver side sun visor with the same fabric I used for the headliner (original visor was toast, falling apart due to moisture, rot, mold, etc), but I'd forgotten to paint the pivot portion that screws into the body. Got that accomplished this weekend and put it on the beast:


A properly working sun visor:


Hard to tell but these are the evap hoses for the fuel tank and transmission, which were so brittle they had turned to powder, and one had a huge hole burned thru it at some point due to it resting on the passenger exhaust manifold. I cut new fuel line and reran them to keep away from hot areas:


Took forever to get them out since I had to jack the passenger side up to get to the bolt that held the lines to the transmission. Once I got that bolt out I was able to wrangle the lines lower to remove the perma-clamps. Measured out new lengths, a bit longer to run them differently up the inner fender, and hose-clamped them to to the lines:


Most of the weekend was spent finishing some fuel injection things, which I'll detail in my Howell thread (see my sig). Took forever to get the passenger side #4 cylinder air injection hole drilled out and retapped to screw in the new manifold plug:


Also had time to get a new full size 235/75/15 spare tire put on the wheel. Old one was date coded to 1994:
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--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877

Last edited by MysticRob : 05-04-2021 at 07:59 AM.
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  #226  
Old 05-04-2021, 08:14 AM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Part of the new fuel injection kit was getting a new O2 sensor hole drilled, bung welded up, and sensor screwed in. Local shop got that done for me. Was the first time I'd driven the beast on public roads more than a couple hundred feet. Placement was per Howell, in front of driver side pipe:


Also had the shop inspect the cat and as I figured it had been gutted and was useless, so had the shop weld up a new Magnaflow cat. Exhaust smells much better now!!:


Shop also removed the air injection pipe that went from driver side down to the original cat, with its custom water hose job. Unseen here was a large hole worn into the bottom of the pipe, making this thing useless even if everything else was good (which it wasn't!):


Discovered the distributor advance was set at only 5* with vacuum disconnected and plugged. I timed it for ~15* due to higher Boise elevation, but anywhere near the stock 12* put the nipple far too close to the power steering belt for comfort:


Had to remove the dizzy after accounting for which cylinder the rotor was pointing at, then repositioned so I could get a better nipple location. More toward the power steering proved adequate for adjustment:
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--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877
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  #227  
Old 05-04-2021, 08:25 AM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Engine bay is getting there. Still need to paint the power brake booster, power steering pump, and some other accessories, but there is certainly much more room to work now:


EDITED: I reused the air cleaner assembly but will leave the vacuum hose off the end diaphragm since the flap inside closes when vacuum is applied, and the fuel injection system doesn't need it. The inner diaphragm is different and only opens when vacuum is connected, so I'm going to wire it up to keep it open instead of connecting it straight to manifold vacuum, as wide open throttle will lower vacuum and likely close this flap:
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--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877

Last edited by MysticRob : Yesterday at 07:21 AM.
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  #228  
Old 05-04-2021, 11:05 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Location: Camarillo, CA
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So you said
Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticRob
...Was the first time I'd driven the beast on public roads more than a couple hundred feet...
How'd it do?!

Those stenciled numbers on the side of your transfer case rear output are cool! Any idea what they are from?

Did you drive it after the timing adjustment? Did it make a difference?
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79 Cherokee Chief (passed CA smog check Sept 2020)
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
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  #229  
Old 05-04-2021, 01:12 PM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
So you said

How'd it do?!

Those stenciled numbers on the side of your transfer case rear output are cool! Any idea what they are from?

Did you drive it after the timing adjustment? Did it make a difference?

No idea on the xfer case #s, figure it was a reman unit since nothing else seems to be all that original.

Steering is pretty sloppy off-center, and steering wheel is crooked since I had bigger fish to fry before fixing that. Steering stabilizer is all ate up, steering box leaks, sway bar bushings are shot, shocks have no markings on brand or model, etc, so I'm sure I'll be throwing parts and money for multiple items at some point soon before taking any longer trips.

Anyone know of good shocks / stabilizers for a stock height GW? Was thinking Bilstein B6 (B46-0046 front and B46-0056 rear), but they're expensive @ ~$300 for all 4, though will last forever.

TGW has these, no idea if they're any good:
https://teamgrandwagoneer.com/team-g...-gw-1974-1991/
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--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877

Last edited by MysticRob : 05-04-2021 at 02:44 PM.
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  #230  
Old 05-04-2021, 05:27 PM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
UPDATED: Well, I decided to go with KYB Gas-a-Just shocks and a Monroe steering stabilizer. I originally ordered a KYB SS10317 stabilizer since it's supposed to fit according to their site, but the spring-side-end hole isn't large enough to fit on the stud, the instructions don't even mention SJs, and the parts included were crap. Ended up getting the Monroe SC2911 instead so updated this post.

Fronts = KYB KG5426
Rears = KYB KG5419
Steering Stabilizer = Monroe SC2911
TOTAL FOR ALL 5: $223.96
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--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877

Last edited by MysticRob : Today at 07:05 AM.
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  #231  
Old 05-06-2021, 11:55 AM
PlumCrazyChris PlumCrazyChris is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Jun 03, 2002
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 349
Anything new will be better than the old shocks that were on there.

No use spending money on an alignment either. Alignment isn't that tough on these at home. A technician can't do much more than this.

Strap a couple of pieces of 8' 1x3 to the outside of the front tires with string/rope, (just below the hubs if you can) allowing for the ends to stick out in front and back of the tires several feet. Then when you get your steering wheel centered where you want it, you can use those ends sticking out to "eyeball" the alignment, and to measure the toe. Set the distance from the front end of the sticks equal to the rear, then adjust the front measurement 1/8" shorter. Tighten it down. I've done it that way many times, and its always been as good as when I've had a mechanic do it. Since you can't adjust caster and camber, its about as good as it gets.

Again, great write up and I'll keep following your progress.

Chris
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Round Rock, TX
1990 Grand Wagoneer - sold
1983 Cherokee Laredo Limited - sold, and want it back!
1979 Cherokee Chief - sold
1976 Cherokee Chief - sold
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  #232  
Old 05-06-2021, 12:00 PM
PlumCrazyChris PlumCrazyChris is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Jun 03, 2002
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 349
BTW, my 83 Cherokee came with a moonroof like yours. The PO got it to install in the Cherokee, but I didn't end up using it and got rid of it when I moved. But I did keep a box of new seals and bits that he had collected for the swap. I realize this all comes too late for you, sorry just saw this thread.

I'd have to dig it up, but let me know if you're interested.
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Round Rock, TX
1990 Grand Wagoneer - sold
1983 Cherokee Laredo Limited - sold, and want it back!
1979 Cherokee Chief - sold
1976 Cherokee Chief - sold
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  #233  
Old 05-06-2021, 12:08 PM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlumCrazyChris
Anything new will be better than the old shocks that were on there.

No use spending money on an alignment either. Alignment isn't that tough on these at home. A technician can't do much more than this.

Strap a couple of pieces of 8' 1x3 to the outside of the front tires with string/rope, (just below the hubs if you can) allowing for the ends to stick out in front and back of the tires several feet. Then when you get your steering wheel centered where you want it, you can use those ends sticking out to "eyeball" the alignment, and to measure the toe. Set the distance from the front end of the sticks equal to the rear, then adjust the front measurement 1/8" shorter. Tighten it down. I've done it that way many times, and its always been as good as when I've had a mechanic do it. Since you can't adjust caster and camber, its about as good as it gets.

Again, great write up and I'll keep following your progress.

Chris

The cost of the wood would likely be way more than the cost of an alignment these days!
I'll keep it in mind, but the old girl tracked pretty well when I had her up to 40MPH with just a bit of slop.
Hoping I can avoid throwing any more money at non-mechanical things for a while. LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlumCrazyChris
BTW, my 83 Cherokee came with a moonroof like yours. The PO got it to install in the Cherokee, but I didn't end up using it and got rid of it when I moved. But I did keep a box of new seals and bits that he had collected for the swap. I realize this all comes too late for you, sorry just saw this thread.

I'd have to dig it up, but let me know if you're interested.

I think I can finally say it's good to go now, and I don't really plan to ever use the sunroof anyway, as I've never liked the darn things. I kept and repaired it just because it was a factory option starting in 88 and I figured it would add some resale value in case I ever need to sell her.
My BMW wagon has a massive sliding panoramic roof on it, I've opened it maybe 4 times in 2 years!
__________________
--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877
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  #234  
Old 05-06-2021, 05:55 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,617
If you're going to do measure the toe you should use the discs or make a line on the tires by spinning them and holding a pencil agin the tire.

Sidewalls can vary enough to throw a measurement way off. Especially if you have a long pieces of wood.

Then there's the error from the wood not being straight. Need to use a couple straightedges.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #235  
Old 05-08-2021, 11:52 AM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Rear shocks arrived early from Walmart so removed the old blown ones (no rebound when removed) and installed the new ones. The original 8952003472, AOD14EA1D or A0D14EA1D, and MAECO LTD part #s don't show much besides a mention in an old AMC forum, so thinking these are original. Also made in Canada on all 4.

An interesting history lesson on Monroe. First mention of MAECO was in 1929, and their Canada subsidiary was opened in 1975 according to this PDF.

http://www.monroe.com/downloads/hist..._Poster_r3.pdf

M = Monroe
A = Automotive
E = Equipment
CO = COmpany



These puppies should work just a bit better than those ancient things I removed, right?:
__________________
--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877

Last edited by MysticRob : Today at 08:28 AM.
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  #236  
Old 05-08-2021, 03:45 PM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Ordered new front sway bar bushings, certainly looks like it needs them:


Driver side:


Steering stabilizer was obviously shot too:


Part # 5352687 PLIACELL 4975500 on the stabilizer tracks on the interwebz as an OEM part, wouldn't be surprised if it's original too:
__________________
--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877

Last edited by MysticRob : Yesterday at 09:04 PM.
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  #237  
Old Yesterday, 08:50 PM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Post

Had time to change out the front shocks today with the new KYBs. Old shocks once again looked original and had no rebound, and hardly any compression resistance:


Part #s and marks on these were 8952003471, MAECO LTD, and what looks like A0DO7EA1D or AODO7EA1D:


New ones mounted up. Best to install the lower mount first with the nut and bolt, then cut the strap to allow the shock to rebound, then guide it into the top mount as it comes up:
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--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877
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  #238  
Old Yesterday, 08:54 PM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 508
Couldn't get the 'new' full size 235/75/15 spare tire I had mounted recently installed in the carrier till I adjusted the bracket to the lowest holes:


All buttoned up and screwed in using my new TGW bolt kit. The old bolt was bent from a mild collision and rusted up to a point where it was unusable:
__________________
--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877

Last edited by MysticRob : Today at 07:10 AM.
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