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  #1  
Old 06-25-2008, 08:04 PM
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jepj2000 jepj2000 is offline
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Location: Fort Worth, TX
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Lightbulb D60 Swap Questions

Ok so I'm finally about ready to start swaping in a GM D60 front axle and Dodge D60 rear axle under my '77 J10 and I have a few questions. Also I'll be putting Chevy 63" rear springs under the frame at the same time.

I do plan on driving this truck on street and having it pass inspection and everything like that so keep that in mind.

1. What front break lines should I use? The axle already has some extended S.S. lines on it, will those work?

2. Are there cheap driveshafts that work to look for in Pick-n-Pulls that are longer if needed? Keep in mind I may go with a set of Rancho RS44044 springs up front.

3. What about getting the ebrake to work for the rear axle or if there will be any issue at all?

I'm sure I'll come up with plenty of more questions later on as well so any tip, tricks, and advice anyone has on getting this done as efficiently as possible would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Rankin
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1972 J2000: 304, T18, Dana 20, Dana 44s w/ 4.09s, Rear Detroit, 7.50-16s
1977 J10: 401, TH400, Quadratrac, partime kit, Dana 60's , 4.10s, welded rear, RS44044s SOA, 63" Springs inboarded, 36" Goodyear RT IIs

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  #2  
Old 06-26-2008, 02:01 AM
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Dmntxn77 Dmntxn77 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jepj2000
1. What front break lines should I use? The axle already has some extended S.S. lines on it, will those work?

My Dodge front had a single line running to it like the rear. However, after playing around with a couple ideas, I ended up modding some FSJ braided lines to work.

If yours already has SS lines on it, I am sure that you can make them work. If the nut ends up being too big to attach to your hardline, you can get an adapter at a good parts store.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jepj2000
2. Are there cheap driveshafts that work to look for in Pick-n-Pulls that are longer if needed? Keep in mind I may go with a set of Rancho RS44044 springs up front.


You may not need a longer shaft. My front shaft is too long now that I swapped in the 60. That pinion is quite a bit longer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jepj2000
3. What about getting the ebrake to work for the rear axle or if there will be any issue at all?

That depends, can you weld? If so, you can remove the factory retainer, and reweld it wherever you decide it needs to be. You can always cut an swedge the front cable if its too long after you adjust the rest.
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Old 06-26-2008, 02:15 AM
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jepj2000 jepj2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmntxn77
My Dodge front had a single line running to it like the rear. However, after playing around with a couple ideas, I ended up modding some FSJ braided lines to work.

If yours already has SS lines on it, I am sure that you can make them work. If the nut ends up being too big to attach to your hardline, you can get an adapter at a good parts store.



You may not need a longer shaft. My front shaft is too long now that I swapped in the 60. That pinion is quite a bit longer.



That depends, can you weld? If so, you can remove the factory retainer, and reweld it wherever you decide it needs to be. You can always cut an swedge the front cable if its too long after you adjust the rest.


Good to know about the adapters for the front lines. Do you think Napa will have them, or do I need to try like a 4 Wheel Parts type store?

Are you running any lift in the front springs? I'm planning on using my saggy stock springs for a while, do you think this will make my shaft to long as well?

Yup welding is not a problem here, not perfect but I can lay some beads. So its just kinda messing with it to make it the right length and it should hook up just fine other than that?

Thanks for the info so far, and keep it coming!

Rankin
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1972 J2000: 304, T18, Dana 20, Dana 44s w/ 4.09s, Rear Detroit, 7.50-16s
1977 J10: 401, TH400, Quadratrac, partime kit, Dana 60's , 4.10s, welded rear, RS44044s SOA, 63" Springs inboarded, 36" Goodyear RT IIs

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Old 06-27-2008, 07:50 PM
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jepj2000 jepj2000 is offline
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Anybody have anymore tips, tricks or greneral info about this swap before I start getting my hands dirty tomorrow anything helps?

Thanks,
Rankin
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1972 J2000: 304, T18, Dana 20, Dana 44s w/ 4.09s, Rear Detroit, 7.50-16s
1977 J10: 401, TH400, Quadratrac, partime kit, Dana 60's , 4.10s, welded rear, RS44044s SOA, 63" Springs inboarded, 36" Goodyear RT IIs

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  #5  
Old 06-27-2008, 09:03 PM
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Dmntxn77 Dmntxn77 is offline
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I think that my front springs might have a little lift, maybe 2". I dont know for sure, but I do know that they were brand new on my old 79 Chief when I bought it, and they have more arch than any stock spring that I have seen.

And yes, with your stock springs, it is possible that your front shaft may be too short. Its hard to say for sure. Now that I think about it, my front shaft might be longer than stock. If so, then you may be ok. Does your front shaft max out now with the SOA?

Yeah, you are on track with the rear brakes. Just finish the axle swap, then max out your rear flex to mark where the brake lines need to be mounted. It is better to leave extra slack in the line that can be sinched up with a spring, than to make it an inch too short and rip it out on the trails.

Other than that, its pretty straight forward. You will likely find a dozen things that need more attention once you get started, but most issues are minor.

What size yokes are on your 1 tons? If they are bigger than your 1/2 ton stuff, you may need adapter U joints or new yokes.
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  #6  
Old 06-29-2008, 12:04 AM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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A couple things that bit me...although mine had a D60 in the rear to begin with...

- Are the spring perches where you need them? After putting the disk brakes on, I found the springs would not clear the rest of the hardware. I inboarded the mounts and rotated the perches.
- I dunno what your situation is...check to make sure your oil pan won't hit the pinion at full stuff.
- Got u-bolts? I had the local Fleetpride trucking supply company fab them up for me. I got the studs for the front perch diff side (which was built into the pumpkin) from the local Chevy dealer.
- Tie rod and drag link from Mountain Off Road...high steer arm from Poison Spyder Customs.
- The first time I had the drive shafts modified I sent 'em all the way from Kalifornia to Denny's Driveshafts (east coast!) where they were built. Second time (454 swap) I just had a local shop modify them - about $119 for both!
- I didn't do a shackle reversal, so I didn't need a real long section of splines on the front drive shaft. Dmntxn77 is right - take the time to flex it out completely once the axles are in. Then do the brake lines and drive shafts.

Hopefully I didn't blahblah too much. Have fun!
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  #7  
Old 06-29-2008, 03:28 PM
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jepj2000 jepj2000 is offline
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Thanks for the info guys, the D44 is out and now I just need to swap in my J20 steering box and then get the D60 bolted up.

Thanks,
Rankin
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1972 J2000: 304, T18, Dana 20, Dana 44s w/ 4.09s, Rear Detroit, 7.50-16s
1977 J10: 401, TH400, Quadratrac, partime kit, Dana 60's , 4.10s, welded rear, RS44044s SOA, 63" Springs inboarded, 36" Goodyear RT IIs

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Old 06-29-2008, 04:48 PM
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Are you inboarding the rear springs? If not, you may have some clearance issues with the D60 drums. The rear spring spacing is pretty big.
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  #9  
Old 06-29-2008, 06:22 PM
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jepj2000 jepj2000 is offline
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Yeah I'm going to inboard 63" Chevy springs, but I won't start the rear until I'm finished with the front, so I'm sure I'll plenty of questions about them.

Thanks,
Rankin
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1972 J2000: 304, T18, Dana 20, Dana 44s w/ 4.09s, Rear Detroit, 7.50-16s
1977 J10: 401, TH400, Quadratrac, partime kit, Dana 60's , 4.10s, welded rear, RS44044s SOA, 63" Springs inboarded, 36" Goodyear RT IIs

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