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Old 07-05-2021, 01:21 PM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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Location: Benson. NC
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how do I check if pass window motor is bad

1988 wagoneer

all windows work except passenger front

it will not operate by either switch ( switch on driver or passenger door )

flex track is not broken

I have cleaned all connections in the harness with electronics cleaner, and all were shiny metal to begin with, no corrosion.

I just removed the flat connector behind the switch, the one with approx 6 wires that slides on the 6 pins on back of switch,....

I made a mistake and opened that connector ( opens like a clam shell ) and all but 2 wires came out of the enclosure, I guessed at their position, put them back, closed the clam shell cover

re connected and when I use the passenger or driver switch, you hear a slight click at the power window motor, and when at the passenger side with hand on end of motor, I feel the click when switch is activated, is that a good sign the motor is bad ?

P.S. I have changed the flex track on driver side when it went bad

and with flex track broken you can raise the/lower the glass with ease,....
but if I have to remove the power window mechanism with out the flex track broken, and window in full up position
how do you disengage flex track connection from glass because in up position, that screw is not accessible

dave in NC
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SOLSAKS - dave
1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC

Last edited by SOLSAKS : 07-05-2021 at 01:55 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2021, 02:02 PM
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Tripwire Tripwire is offline
hey,does anyone here know how to.......
 
Join Date: Jul 30, 2000
Location: WA State
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since you have the door panel off, just hook up a cheap battery charger with some wires to the motor and see if it goes up or down , you can change the polarity, if the motor works then its the body to door harness most likely, where it bends.....after a few thousand cycles the wires break....aint gonna be fun to repair
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86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2021, 02:30 PM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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tripwire

thanx

but I am so ignorant on that kind of stuff I have no idea how to do that.

and I don't have a charger.....

does the fact that I can hear a click each time either switch is used, and I can feel

a split second vibration along with the click in the end of the motor where wires

go in at,... mean anything, ( like its hopefully the motor ? )
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2021, 02:42 PM
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Tripwire Tripwire is offline
hey,does anyone here know how to.......
 
Join Date: Jul 30, 2000
Location: WA State
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you can run some long wires from the battery and do the same test..... you need to keep 1/2 splitting the issue by ruling things out, i would start with the motor test, then clean the switches with contact cleaner, there can only be a few things wrong....the switches, the motor or the wiring harness....do some detective work, i should have a few good switches let if you might need them, my guess its the drivers side switch
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86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:
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  #5  
Old 07-06-2021, 04:07 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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Take it to a mechanic. Electrical is not going to be easy fix for you.
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  #6  
Old 07-06-2021, 08:02 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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to quote Lynyrd Skynyrd : " you got that right "
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
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  #7  
Old 07-06-2021, 10:48 AM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
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Do this, Dave. Use a couple leads directly off the battery and just hook directly up to the motor. As stated above, just reverse the leads to reverse the polarity to make it raise or lower:
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1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
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  #8  
Old 07-06-2021, 11:11 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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power seat wires are always hot too...unplug the connector and use them direct to motor.
power window motors rarely fail, it's almost always a wiring issue.
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Old 07-08-2021, 09:36 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticRob
Do this, Dave. Use a couple leads directly off the battery and just hook directly up to the motor. As stated above, just reverse the leads to reverse the polarity to make it raise or lower:



Loving some clip leads. Very handy, and cheap.
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  #10  
Old 07-21-2021, 12:47 PM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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I did check the window motor using this method
motor worked fine,.....

then when I hooked power window harness back together

I tried the passenger and driver window switch, and now it works fine,....

what the heck ?, but I remember this happened once before

that time I pulled the widow switch out of the door shell, sprayed with electronic cleaner, wiggled it and checked for any obvious loose wires, and also un hooked and re hoooked the harness connector, and it worked again for a couple years until now,...

I wonder if it is due to me unhooking and re hooking the harness back up
and if there may be slight corrosion building, etc etc....

confused....
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #11  
Old 07-21-2021, 01:06 PM
oregonphil oregonphil is offline
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Sounds like a bad/dirty/rusty/loose electrical connection. When you disconnected and then reconnected the wires it may have cleaned them off just enough to make it work again. Check those wire terminals to make sure they are clean and tight.
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2021, 01:16 PM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
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And inspect the harness wires closely. You've been moving things around as you work in there so it's possible there's a cut, nicked, or grounded, wire in there somewhere that might get jostled enough over a bump to lose enough voltage to kill that window circuit, and vice versa, enough to reconnect it during troubleshooting.
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1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
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My Howell TBI Install How-To:
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2021, 05:34 PM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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thanx all,.....

looked and could not see any culprits

but there could be one in driver door area

where it bends, etc, etc...

but i had already put that panel back on,...dang it....

but getting good at putting those panels back on !!!

cleaned all connections well in passenger door, cross your fingers.

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #14  
Old 07-22-2021, 04:38 AM
Runyouover86GW Runyouover86GW is offline
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Join Date: Jan 03, 2020
Location: Virginia
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If you message me, I can give you some troubleshooting tips. I have issues loading pictures on hear sometimes and if I can email them to you or if you have Facebook, I can give you a link to my business page on there. And I can message you some pics or you can also go through it and look at some trouble areas I have posted. For the time being though, two big trouble areas where you can do visual inspections if you don't have a meter (which I would highly recommend getting at least a cheap-ish one). It will help you greatly in troubleshooting. I give out free troubleshooting advice through my business and many other people here will help you with exactly how to set the meter up to troubleshoot your problem.



But back to it, two big trouble areas are the round terminals that go over the switch pins can expand a little bit over time, because they are split round connectors and not fixed in size. So after they are taken out time after time over the years, sometimes the round socket/terminal can expand and it needs to be closed a little bit, so it fits snug over the switch pins, but you need to be very careful doing this, so you don't flatten it out and make it unusable. One of the other big trouble areas is right where the wires cross through the door through that wire raceway by the door hinges. The insulation can dry rot over the years and the stress of opening and closing the door can cause the copper wire to become exposed. And actually I can't remember if you said if you opened up the switch itself to clean it out, but it can get very oxidized and corroded in there, and there are also pieces that can come loose causing a bad connection.



If all of your other switches are working, I would assume you have clean grounds. But it never hurts to double check those also. The grounds for your window switches all go through the driver's side door switches. If you have any questions feel free to ask here or message me.
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  #15  
Old 07-22-2021, 07:54 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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thanx "run you over", great offer, and great info.

I did open the round housing with the wires in a circular pattern
on the pass window switch, and I freaked out cause the wires jumped out

I replaced them hoping they were in right locations, and it must have been right.

still working for now,....I will keep all your info in mind.

many thanx !

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
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