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  #61  
Old 03-05-2020, 02:00 PM
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how to set the time logout in the forum?
I have to login many times..



i have to understand the vacuum system


carburetor secondary side
the power break port is hosed to the EGR
Power break tube goes to the manifold


Choke side of the carb.
litte port hosed to the choke
bigger port (canister vapor vent) is with open 10 cm tube
not plugged??


front side of the carb.
PCV port is plugged.
little port at the choke side is plugged (timed vacuum)
little port at the fuel pump side is hosed to the distributor


the air gard system is down. tubes cut off and plugged


is all right so far?
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  #62  
Old 03-06-2020, 01:03 PM
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the red one is the EGR . the hose is plugged with a scew.
the part above is the pcv? have this hosed to vacuum port carburetor.

the 6 mm pipe left goes to the transmission , the second . rubber tube is plugged
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  #63  
Old 03-06-2020, 01:28 PM
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3 way port. .. useless
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  #64  
Old 03-06-2020, 01:33 PM
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electrical: the green "torpedo" is a ceramic ohmic resitance and the wire goes to the headlamp switch...

have no idea for that...
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  #65  
Old 03-06-2020, 01:41 PM
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leaky power stearing gear.
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  #66  
Old 03-06-2020, 01:44 PM
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stub shaft seal not tight?
Dimensions of the sealing?
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  #67  
Old 03-07-2020, 06:47 AM
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detent electrical connector

Today i do the missing wires for the kickdown and the emergency drive.
Found the connetor in the motor compartment.
plugged the new yellow wire to the connector in the transmission.
and the connector drops out easily!!


Is it only the o-ring which keeps this part in place??
Maybe inside the solenoid is not plugged .
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  #68  
Old 03-07-2020, 06:50 AM
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  #69  
Old 03-07-2020, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
a 4bbl was an Option for the Chief
In the 571 pages manual jeep engines from Mopar i have read something about the AFB for the 360amc
Nobody here who has a Carter AFB in his chief?
...
Yeah they did but it was not a Carter AFB that came with the optional 4barrel. It was a Motorcraft 4 barrel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
how to set the time logout in the forum?
I have to login many times..
...
This may be your browser. I do not think the forum will log you out on it's own. I have been logged in for hours at a time and have never been logged out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
i have to understand the vacuum system

carburetor secondary side
the power break port is hosed to the EGR
Power break tube goes to the manifold

Choke side of the carb.
litte port hosed to the choke
bigger port (canister vapor vent) is with open 10 cm tube
not plugged??

front side of the carb.
PCV port is plugged.
little port at the choke side is plugged (timed vacuum)
little port at the fuel pump side is hosed to the distributor

the air gard system is down. tubes cut off and plugged

is all right so far?
Hopefully someone can help you with the carb ports. I do not know about the AFB. When you look at the vacuum diagram for 79, what is not important is where the vacuum signal comes from. What IS important is the type of signal and where it goes. What I mean is, if the vacuum signal is manifold signal in the diagram, make sure you are tapped to a port on your manifold or carb that gives you manifold vacuum. If it is ported vacuum, check your carb for a ported vacuum nipple and hook up to that (I believe this it the little port on the choke side that is plugged, you called timed vacuum).

When I was learning mine, I did one circuit at a time. Do the timing advance circuit first becuase it will really help your truck run better and it is a basic line. More in that in a minute.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher

the red one is the EGR . the hose is plugged with a scew.
the part above is the pcv? have this hosed to vacuum port carburetor.

the 6 mm pipe left goes to the transmission , the second . rubber tube is plugged

OK, so we see EGR is plugged. Hold off on that for now. Just make sure it stays plugged.
Yes, the part above is PCV. Make sure you get a hose that is rated for PCV.
Yes, the metal 6mm pipe is your transmission modulator signal. Make sure it is sealed up at the transmission or it is a vacuum leak. The rubber hose that is plugged will usually go to the little vacuum cannister ball on your fire wall, then to the quadratrac switch and heater motors under the dash. Leave that nipple plugged for now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher

3 way port. .. useless
This is your Timing CTO switch. You should use this. The middle nipple should be connected to your distributor vacuum can. The one that is open when the engine is cold should go to manifold vacuum source (Any manifold vacuum source) that it what your distributor runs when your engine is cold. The bottom nipple should go to ported vacuum (I might have top and bottom mixed up, more on that in a second). This is what your distributor uses when your engine is warm.
Step 1, remove that CTO. Blow into the middle port and air should only come one one other port (I think it is the top). If it does, that is the port that goes to manifold vacuum. Then, boil water in an old pot. lower the CTO into the water for about 5 minutes, then blow through the center port again. It should only come out the other port. That port is for ported vacuum. If either of these tests fail (if air comes out of both ports at any time, or it does not switch, throw that CTO away and buy a new one). CTOs are not expensive or hard to find... as long as you have the part number. If yours fails, let us know and we will pass on the part number.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
electrical: the green "torpedo" is a ceramic ohmic resitance and the wire goes to the headlamp switch...

have no idea for that...
I don't see that in any picture so not sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
leaky power stearing gear.
I have been fighting leaks ever since I bought mine. I still have one. I fix one, I find another. It's annoying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
...stub shaft seal not tight?
Dimensions of the sealing?
Yeah, that o-ring is probably original. You have 3 options
1) Go buy that seal only, replace it and hope it holds
2) buy a rebuild kit (they are cheap) and rebuild it on your bench. There are TONS of how-to's on rebuilding that gear. It's not too hard and does not take much time. This is what I would do if I were you. Search "Saginaw Steering Gear Rebuild" and you will find videos, articles, and all. I am pretty sure it's in the factory service manual, too.
3) replace the gear. The most expensive option but probably the most reliable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Today i do the missing wires for the kickdown and the emergency drive.
Found the connetor in the motor compartment.
plugged the new yellow wire to the connector in the transmission.
and the connector drops out easily!!

Is it only the o-ring which keeps this part in place??
Maybe inside the solenoid is not plugged .
Ummm.... I think there is a c clip that should hold that in. My son is out driving mine so I can't check right now. Maybe someone else knows?
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  #70  
Old 03-07-2020, 12:02 PM
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Oh, by the way, do you have a 4 barrell intake or is it a 2 barrell intake with an adapter for a 4 barrel carb? That looks like a factory intake.
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  #71  
Old 03-07-2020, 12:28 PM
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"Yes, the part above is PCV. Make sure you get a hose that is rated for PCV.
Yes, the metal 6mm pipe is your transmission modulator signal. Make sure it is sealed up at the transmission or it is a vacuum leak. The rubber hose that is plugged will usually go to the little vacuum cannister ball on your fire wall, then to the quadratrac switch and heater motors under the dash. Leave that nipple plugged for now. "


Ich have the PCV dismounted and checked. works well. new hose to the carburetor port...


Rubber hose:
This was a mistake from me.


This rubber hose ist not plugged. It is like you explainded.
Vacuum ball.. quadratrac switch. But the hose was leak to to the ball..
and the rubber hose from the ball to the heating switch iunder the dasch e was old and loose, i think also leak.
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  #72  
Old 03-07-2020, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Oh, by the way, do you have a 4 barrell intake or is it a 2 barrell intake with an adapter for a 4 barrel carb? That looks like a factory intake.




on the manifold is a sealing, and above a 5 mm rubber "sealing" or isolation sheet. no adapter.
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  #73  
Old 03-07-2020, 12:50 PM
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Emergency switch


a picture from the top of the transfer case borg warner
The left part ist the switch for the 56 orange wire to the emergency control lamp? No receptacle? only a round pin to connect a wire??
the right is a loose cap.... air bleed "valve"??
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  #74  
Old 03-07-2020, 01:22 PM
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only plugged in... maybe one of the 3 plastic "claws" broken
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  #75  
Old 03-08-2020, 03:27 AM
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vaccum ports of a carter AFB (Edelbrock performer) similar
this picture is found in another forum.
the ported vacuum (here distributor) is plugged on mine AFB
I think this must be hosed to the bottom port oft che CTO switch
but someone use the manifold vacuum on the other side (CAP here)
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  #76  
Old 03-08-2020, 03:30 AM
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Spark CTO Switch.
upper port ist manifold vacuum
middle is distributor
bottom is ported vacuum carburetor
should i go back to this?


a long statement about ported or manifold vacuum ....



https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...vacuum-advance



I consider it is better to use the the manifold vaccum as the ported vacuum for good running...


so whats about the tubes? use the CTO only with 2 ports?

the vacuum from the manifold and the vacuum from the right "manifold" port from the carb is the same?
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Last edited by wincher : 03-08-2020 at 03:49 AM.
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  #77  
Old 03-08-2020, 06:32 AM
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Electrial -

Hi,


is there no control lamp for ingnition ON?
When i turn my key on Ignition, the Fuel Gauge works.
but no other control lights on.
(at the next step counterwise the engine starts.)
No lights for
fasten Belts
Brake
(OK, emergency switch is not wired.)


this lights works:

head beam light blue,

flasher
emergency flasher
ilumination with dimmer





And I have no oil pressure gauge
The wire from the oil pressure sender goes to the starter soleniod with permanent +!!


cant find the cluster connector with the 7 purple and 56 orange wire ?


I have a connector with 54 yellow kickdown and an orange wire, i mean this is the 56 orange quadradriive wire. both were dismounted...
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  #78  
Old 03-10-2020, 09:02 PM
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For the trans case connector/plug/ switch there are several types, 1,2,3 prong. Most Jeep applications I have seen use the 1 prong. Here is the type that will work:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TH400-Transmission-CASE-CONNECTOR-one-prong-1968-UP-Turbo-400/302534316338?_trkparms=aid%3D1110004%26algo%3DSPLI CE.COMP%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200220094952%26meid%3D5 9d28fe3833240ebbf439ab74f87c6fa%26pid%3D100008%26r k%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D124066501749%26itm%3D30253 4316338%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv% 3Ddefault&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219

Make sure you buy one that includes the O-ring, it will need to be replacedat the same time. You will lose trans fluid, so either plan on doing a fluid/ filter/pan gasket change at the same time. Or work REALLY fast.

As an aside, you can use the interchange part numbers: Number: CT5746 CT6338 34444A to find one local or online in Europe instead of ordering from the US. The TH400 was used in some European cars like Jaguar and Opel, so they should be available in the EU or UK.

ps: check the short right angle hose to the vacuum modulator. It may well be rotted or deteriorated as well while you are down there.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Hydra...oAAOSw--1Wr3nE

Fleet Fox

Last edited by FleetFox : 03-10-2020 at 09:08 PM.
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  #79  
Old 03-11-2020, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Ich have the PCV dismounted and checked. works well. new hose to the carburetor port...

Rubber hose:
This was a mistake from me.

This rubber hose ist not plugged. It is like you explainded.
Vacuum ball.. quadratrac switch. But the hose was leak to to the ball..
and the rubber hose from the ball to the heating switch iunder the dasch e was old and loose, i think also leak.
Honestly, for now, I would plug the port above the transmission modulator. Get the engine running/driving really good before you start hooking that stuff (vacuum ball, heater, quadratrac switch) back in. You don't "need" any of those things right now and there are a lot of potential vacuum leaks on that circuit. If you plug that port for now, you eliminate all of those potential leaks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
on the manifold is a sealing, and above a 5 mm rubber "sealing" or isolation sheet. no adapter.
Oh. Ok. Can we get a picture of the whole top of your engine? I am wondering what intake manifold you have.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
a picture from the top of the transfer case borg warner
The left part ist the switch for the 56 orange wire to the emergency control lamp? No receptacle? only a round pin to connect a wire??
That is correct. it is only a little pin that pokes up. the orange wire should have a round rubber boot on it and it just lightly snaps on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
the right is a loose cap.... air bleed "valve"??
Correct, that is the vent cap. it looks correct. you should be able to leave it alone. Some cases will have a nipple with a hose on it, but yours is fine. leave it just like that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
only plugged in... maybe one of the 3 plastic "claws" broken
Maybe?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
vaccum ports of a carter AFB (Edelbrock performer) similar
this picture is found in another forum.
the ported vacuum (here distributor) is plugged on mine AFB
I think this must be hosed to the bottom port oft che CTO switch
but someone use the manifold vacuum on the other side (CAP here)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Spark CTO Switch.
upper port ist manifold vacuum
middle is distributor
bottom is ported vacuum carburetor
should i go back to this?

a long statement about ported or manifold vacuum ....

https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...vacuum-advance

I consider it is better to use the the manifold vaccum as the ported vacuum for good running...

so whats about the tubes? use the CTO only with 2 ports?

the vacuum from the manifold and the vacuum from the right "manifold" port from the carb is the same?
Found the CTO in the service manual. I would hook the Distributor port to the top of the CTO and the CAP to the bottom of the CTO.

There are lots of opinions/facts/stories out there about ported vs. manifold vacuum being better. You are OK either way; your truck will run on both. I personally like sticking with the way the factory designed it to be to make sure everything is working first, then go from there. But that is my preference. If you prefer to run JUST manifold, then plug the distributor port on your carb and run a line from the CAP port to the vacuum can on your distributor. Ignore the CTO all together if you want to always run manifold vacuum on your distributor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
is there no control lamp for ingnition ON?
When i turn my key on Ignition, the Fuel Gauge works.
but no other control lights on.
(at the next step counterwise the engine starts.)
No lights for
fasten Belts
Brake
(OK, emergency switch is not wired.)

this lights works:

head beam light blue,

flasher
emergency flasher
ilumination with dimmer
....
There is no light for on when you turn your key on like newer cars.
Counterclockwise? If I turn my key counter clockwise (as looking at the key) it will go one click and stop. That is the accessory position for me where the cigarette lighter and radio come on but that's about it. If I turn it clockwise, one click that is the RUN or ON position, two clicks is the START position (engine turns over).
When I turn my key to RUN (the first click on turning the key clockwise), my seat belt light comes on and a buzzer buzzes but at the accessory position (the first click on turning the key counter clockwise) there are no lights on my dash. The fuel gauge should not come on in the accessory position, it should come on in the first clockwise click (run).

the brake light should come on if the emergency brake pedal is pressed and the key is in the run position. It will also come on if there is a problem with your proportioning valve and the key is on. Don't worry about the brake light for now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
...And I have no oil pressure gauge
The wire from the oil pressure sender goes to the starter soleniod with permanent +!!...
Unhook that wire from the solenoid! That's bad! Usually the oil pressure sender wire leaves the sender, goes into the harness on the passenger side of the engine bay, across the cowl, through the big connector on the driver side, into the dash.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
cant find the cluster connector with the 7 purple and 56 orange wire ?

I have a connector with 54 yellow kickdown and an orange wire, i mean this is the 56 orange quadradriive wire. both were dismounted...
That connector on mine is white plastic, rectangular and tied to some other wires so it could not go far.

You sure that orange wire is the quadratrac wire? There are a few orange wires under the dash...

It sounds like your wiring is pretty bad... fix one circuit at a time or you will get bogged down. You have most of what you need since it runs and you have fuel gauge. I would not worry about E-Drive, or seat belt buzzers and lights, or anything like that. I would probably go after the temperature gauge next. When that works, go after the oil pressure gauge, and continue from there.
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  #80  
Old 03-11-2020, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FleetFox
For the trans case connector/plug/ switch there are several types, 1,2,3 prong. Most Jeep applications I have seen use the 1 prong. Here is the type that will work:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TH400-Transmission-CASE-CONNECTOR-one-prong-1968-UP-Turbo-400/302534316338?_trkparms=aid%3D1110004%26algo%3DSPLI CE.COMP%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200220094952%26meid%3D5 9d28fe3833240ebbf439ab74f87c6fa%26pid%3D100008%26r k%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D124066501749%26itm%3D30253 4316338%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv% 3Ddefault&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219

Make sure you buy one that includes the O-ring, it will need to be replacedat the same time. You will lose trans fluid, so either plan on doing a fluid/ filter/pan gasket change at the same time. Or work REALLY fast.

As an aside, you can use the interchange part numbers: Number: CT5746 CT6338 34444A to find one local or online in Europe instead of ordering from the US. The TH400 was used in some European cars like Jaguar and Opel, so they should be available in the EU or UK.

ps: check the short right angle hose to the vacuum modulator. It may well be rotted or deteriorated as well while you are down there.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Hydramatic-350-TH400-Adjustable-Transmission-Vacuum-Modulator-w-hose-88572/201515613243?epid=690788487&hash=item2eeb443c3b:g: XRoAAOSw--1Wr3nE

Fleet Fox




Hi, I have ordered the parts by automatic-berger.de
connector, magnet switch, 2 orings, filter and gasket kit...
the parcel should arrive tomorrow..
thanks for the tip witch the vacuum modulator!
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