Planning rear D44 rebuild and Limited Slip install. Advice?

[rang-a-stang]

I generally understand how my rear axle works and the parts in it. I have also seen a few high level videos on swapping in a limited slip/locker. Over the next few weeks I am planning to purchase a Torsen type limited slip and a rebuild kit. I plan to reuse my ring and pinion and stock axle shafts. I will also spend a bunch of time watching videos and reading my tech manual over these next few weeks. BUT I have never pulled a carrier out, I have never set lash, and I have very little experience back there.

Any advice from someone that has done this before?

I have narrowed down my choice to Powertrax GripLok or a TrueTrac (I have 3.54's and plan to get the smaller carrier). I will probably get the carrier that has the lower price when I pull the trigger in early May.

I plan to buy a master rebuild kit that has carrier bearings/races, pinion bearings, side shaft seals, etc. Any advice on kits? Good ones? Bad ones?

Any advice on tools? Does it make it much easier to pull the axle out and work on it, or is it not really worth the effort compared to doing it on the truck?

Other than the carrier, rebuild kit, gear oil, and gasket maker, are there other supplies I should have on hand?

[FSJunkie]

You will need an arbor press of at least 20 tons capacity, a pinion flange holding fixture, bearing and seal drivers, and a dial indicator. Those are non-negotiable.

A torque wrench of at least 250 foot-pounds capacity and a torque wrench of 10-100 INCH-pounds capacity are extremely helpful but you can get around them.

You will also need patience. It's not hard to set up a differential but you have to take your time and pay attention. Especially on Dana axles. You use shims to set all your adjustments and the shims are located behind bearings that are pressed onto their shafts with several tons of force. Pressing the bearings on and off as you test-fit shim packs is do-able, but gets old. Getting an extra set of bearings and machining them out inside so they slide on and off without a press to use as test-fit bearings makes your life a lot easier.

[J20 project]

Timken bearings are the standard of the industry but koyo bearings are fine. USA Standard and Motive sell them all. Yukon is the same but pricier..Amazon is your friend.
J2

[wiley-moeracing]

This is one of those times where it cheaper and easier to get it done for you. I have done them many times, some easy some a real pain but have been getting them done for me at a shop because of time limitations. Something to consider.

[babywag]

I say pull axle, easier than doing it in vehicle!

When I did my 10bolt in Caprice didn't have/use a press.
But it would be easier with one or to have a shop pull the bearings.
I used a cheap bearing tool from HF to remove them.

When I was confident on shims for pinion I cooked the bearing in the oven and it dropped right on easily.
Also cooked the carrier side bearings and again they both dropped right on.

Local shops would have been ~$1k for them to do the regear in vehicle, and slightly less if I brought in just the axle.

[SJTD]

Don't forget you need a case a spreader to work on Danas. You see in the Mags where they don't use them but I'd call that hackery.

Comes out ok but how about going back in with those thin shims?

i don't see it at HF but can be had for $100 on ebay. I'm going to need one some day, maybe we can do a deal.

[J20 project]

So, it would appear this way.

You need a case spreader. https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Diffe...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
You need an appropriate bearing puller.https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect...getName=sp_atf
You need a magnetic dial indicator.https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Univ...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
You need a micrometer.https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools...6952791&sr=8-5
You need a pinion depth guage. https://www.amazon.com/Machine-Produ...6952824&sr=8-1
You need a shop press.https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Hydra...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
You need set up bearing and set up races for this job.https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-Ax...s%2C220&sr=8-3

and the set up race.

Now hard parts:https://www.amazon.com/Powertrax-GT4...%2C220&sr=8-11

https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-YK-D44-REAR-Overhaul/dp/B0078UBG6C/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3BBSD0CW0JIX6&dchild=1&keywords=dana+44+setup+bearings&qid=1616952930&sprefix=dana+44+set+up+bearing%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-9

Have I missed anything folks?
Rolls up to about 2088.00 U.S.

J20

Seems a shop install might be easier and cheaper.

[J20 project]

d44 build

Rang...

I actually do this for a living.....and the estimate I would give someone would be 1197 clams.....I have all of the equipment.
Now I know you are there. and I am here. This should give you a basis for decision making instead of investing in equipment you may or may not ever use again.
I have built around 40 axles in the last 3 years along w/ the driveline work. I am going to retire but a very froggy younger fellow is taking over.

Again, good luck, hope the info was valuable.

Hackery, I wonder how many folks actually have that many axles done and finished w/ no issues acutually own the equpment and under their belt on this page?...doesn't count the axles I did as a "novice".

J20

[SJTD]

Since he's reusing the gears he shouldn't need to change the pinion shimming eliminating the need the pinion height tools. No? Also, I think Jegs has a pinion height set for $100 or so. Might be Summit ore some other.

For that matter does he need to set up the diff shimming?

Never mind. I guess he would since he's considering a Torsen or others that mean a different carrier.

But couldn't that be done trial and error?

This is a one time job. The goodies would get you closer the first time but are there not work arounds that a shop doesn't have time for?

[backroadin']

As to which LSD, I would vote truetrac - all gear driven so there's no ratcheting action and time tested and proven. I'm not familiar with the griplok, but it appears to be an automatic locker like a detroit. So I'm basing it on that. If you're gonna be on the street more than the trail, the truetrac would be my choice since you wouldn't even know it was there. If all trail, then maybe not.
Good luck on the install - everybody had to do something for the first time before they were a pro!!

[rang-a-stang]

You will need an arbor press of at least 20 tons capacity, a pinion flange holding fixture, bearing and seal drivers, and a dial indicator. Those are non-negotiable.

A torque wrench of at least 250 foot-pounds capacity and a torque wrench of 10-100 INCH-pounds capacity are extremely helpful but you can get around them.

You will also need patience. It's not hard to set up a differential but you have to take your time and pay attention. Especially on Dana axles. You use shims to set all your adjustments and the shims are located behind bearings that are pressed onto their shafts with several tons of force. Pressing the bearings on and off as you test-fit shim packs is do-able, but gets old. Getting an extra set of bearings and machining them out inside so they slide on and off without a press to use as test-fit bearings makes your life a lot easier.

Does it have to be an Arbor press? I have a 20 ton Harbor Freight hydraulic press.
I have both sizes of torque wrenches. Copy on the spare bearings. Maybe I will use the bearings on my current carrier and machine them out a little to slide on off...

Timken bearings are the standard of the industry but koyo bearings are fine. USA Standard and Motive sell them all. Yukon is the same but pricier..Amazon is your friend.
J20

Great! I was looking at this one:

https://www.amazon.com/USA-Standard-Gear-D44-Differential/dp/B0078U8QY2/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2F2VPA3EQ0J5RH8NZGCP

This is one of those times where it cheaper and easier to get it done for you. I have done them many times, some easy some a real pain but have been getting them done for me at a shop because of time limitations. Something to consider.

You know, I thought building my own engine, instead of having a shop do it, was gonna be cheaper (and worth the savings). It was...except I hosed my engine up and hand to do it AGAIN. It was not cheaper to build it twice. I have a strong feeling that may be my reality again, if I do this myself.

I say pull axle, easier than doing it in vehicle!

When I did my 10bolt in Caprice didn't have/use a press.
But it would be easier with one or to have a shop pull the bearings.
I used a cheap bearing tool from HF to remove them.

When I was confident on shims for pinion I cooked the bearing in the oven and it dropped right on easily.
Also cooked the carrier side bearings and again they both dropped right on.

Local shops would have been ~$1k for them to do the regear in vehicle, and slightly less if I brought in just the axle.

I will probably pull it then. I also have that bearing tool from HF. I have seen a few videos of folks freezing the pinion/carrier, heating the bearings and they "dropped on" or at least went on pretty drama free. But with a press I should be able to just press them on... in theory.

Don't forget you need a case a spreader to work on Danas. You see in the Mags where they don't use them but I'd call that hackery.

Comes out ok but how about going back in with those thin shims?

i don't see it at HF but can be had for $100 on ebay. I'm going to need one some day, maybe we can do a deal.

Sounds good to me! I'll ask some of my local buddies and see if they have a spreader I can borrow. I'll also start watching Craigslist and Fleabay for a deal. When I am done, IT WILL BE SOLD. I don't want to pack that and bring it with me when I move.

So, it would appear this way.

You need a case spreader. (link)
You need an appropriate bearing puller.(link)
You need a magnetic dial indicator.(link)
You need a micrometer.(link)
You need a pinion depth guage. (link)
You need a shop press.(link)
You need set up bearing and set up races for this job.(link)

and the set up race.(link)

Now hard parts: (link)
Have I missed anything folks?
Rolls up to about 2088.00 U.S.

J20

Seems a shop install might be easier and cheaper.
*****************************
I actually do this for a living.....and the estimate I would give someone would be 1197 clams.....I have all of the equipment.
Now I know you are there. and I am here. This should give you a basis for decision making instead of investing in equipment you may or may not ever use again.
I have built around 40 axles in the last 3 years along w/ the driveline work. I am going to retire but a very froggy younger fellow is taking over.

Again, good luck, hope the info was valuable.

Hackery, I wonder how many folks actually have that many axles done and finished w/ no issues actually own the equipment and under their belt on this page?...doesn't count the axles I did as a "novice".

I have quite a few of those tools already, also. I would also need to add the cost of the carrier to the estimate. So guessing a shop here, locally would charge the same as you, I am looking at about $1500'ish. I cannot afford that. BUT, like I said to Tim above, it would probably be cheaper to spend $1500 once and know it is done right, then to do it myself and mess it all up and have to do it again. Crap. Buy the best, cry once.

Since he's reusing the gears he shouldn't need to change the pinion shimming eliminating the need the pinion height tools. No? Also, I think Jegs has a pinion height set for $100 or so. Might be Summit ore some other.

For that matter does he need to set up the diff shimming?

Never mind. I guess he would since he's considering a Torsen or others that mean a different carrier.

But couldn't that be done trial and error?

This is a one time job. The goodies would get you closer the first time but are there not work arounds that a shop doesn't have time for?

My understanding is: New carrier, new shimming (all around). I would assume I would start with the same shims as my open carrier, measure, and go from there.

Over these next few days I will see what tools buddies have that I can borrow. I will also call a few local shops and see what they charge. Then I will create my own costs, if I do it all myself, and compare it. If it is going to cost me $500 in parts, $500 in tools, and I am only saving $300 in doing it myself, it will be farmed out. OR, maybe I just get some gear oil, a new spider gear, and a ton of brake cleaner and just fix the open carrier for now...

DANGIT! I thought this would be easier!

As to which LSD, I would vote truetrac - all gear driven so there's no ratcheting action and time tested and proven. I'm not familiar with the griplok, but it appears to be an automatic locker like a detroit. So I'm basing it on that. If you're gonna be on the street more than the trail, the truetrac would be my choice since you wouldn't even know it was there. If all trail, then maybe not.
Good luck on the install - everybody had to do something for the first time before they were a pro!!

Grip lock is just another brand of torsen LS like Truetrac. Mine is 99.9% on road so I don't want a ratcheting locker back there. In the very long future, I plan to put a selectable locker in the front but that will be years from now.

[SJTD]

Centerline of the ring won't change with a new carrier so pinion depth will be the same but yeah, ring shimming will change.

[RamJetFSJ]

Ill try anything myself, at least once. Im one of those people that just has to do it myself, even if its not done perfect or I have to do it twice. (Motor rebuilds, motor swaps, complicated timing belt changes in newer vehicles, roofing, plumbing, electrical, etc all for the first time with no experience) But after all the research, this is one thing I won't attempt myself. Ill leave it to the pros.

Im looking to get my axles regeared/rebuilt with a rear Truetrac also, so Ill be interested to see how it goes for you, and who you end up using if you do farm it out (since we are in the same area).

I have looked a bit at the Powertrax Grip Pro recently, and it is the same sort of geared limited slip design as the Truetrac, but with less history of reliability/issues to look back at. But it will save you a bit of money for sure.

The Powertrax Grip LOK is a full case auto locker like the Detroit Locker.

So make sure you know which style of diff you really want (limited slip vs Locker)

[goldhammer]

If the master kit doesn't have them, new ring gear bolts, and some gear marking fluid to check tooth engagement.

Lot less stress and headache to have a pro set it up. If you get the carrier and master set, all your paying is labor

[rocklaurence]

You dont need all those tools in most cases. I do recommend a bearing puller. I have a couple videos discussing this topic. Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBpVBH58JKU
This one talks about the Mesh Pattern and other things: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ysJaDBzyQQ