anti-wrap bar

[mudslider]

im making my truss for my 14 bolt. with the designing of the truss i have found a good question. does it matter which side the anti-wrap bar should be on? i have searched on other forums as well to no avail. is there any advantages or disadvatages to putting it on either side, pas or driver side?

[River Beast]

Talk to desert beast... he had one of the nicest anti-wraps built.....

[mudslider]

why does it look like they all would limit flex? even with hiems none the less bushings on the ends. orbitals on the axle side and bushing on the frame side would be the best way to go or orbitals all the way? ive did reading but everyone says theirs works great ya know. i also read that you want to keep the awb as level with the frame shackle mount as you can? i will have some big lift the awb won't even be on the axle if thats the case.

[ March 12, 2006, 09:16 AM: Message edited by: mudslider ]

[rockjeep44]

By the time you're done building a wrap bar worth a d*mn you could have built a half decent 4-link. Trust me, been there wrecked that :o:o:o:o.

[ March 18, 2006, 12:43 AM: Message edited by: rockjeep44 ]

[mudslider]

by the time i spent the money ive went through with this setup i couldve easily done a four link LOL. but its coming along really well i am trying to build it to hold up as much as my gaining knowlegde will let it, thanks to people on here.

what thickness of dom would work for the awb? i have a tendency to over build this so far and i can get ahold of about 1/8"x1 1/2" thick cold steel tubing not rolled(not sure if that would be dom or not). will that work or should i wait and get some thicker tubing? also what size should i look at getting 1 1/2" or 2" diameter? i also read that you want to keep the awb as level with the frame shackle mount as you can? i will have some big lift the awb won't even be on the axle if thats the case?

[ March 20, 2006, 07:32 PM: Message edited by: mudslider ]

[rockjeep44]

Don't worry about making it perfectly level but definitely don't built it out of 1/8" wall. I've completely destroyed several anti-wrap bars and let me tell you they need to be beef. You can't even comprehend the amount of force that they will take especially if you like to wheel hard. Also, you have one bar controlling the axle as opposed to 4 in a 4-link setup. I've already bent a 2" OD 1/2" wall DOM lower on my 4-link setup if that tells you anything. I'd run .375 wall at a bare minimum and use some .120 wall to gusset it.

[ March 21, 2006, 06:46 AM: Message edited by: rockjeep44 ]

[mudslider]

that is a good point, i remember reading that you had bent one of your links, thanks. i have level space outside of my truss on the axle but its about 8" out from the center, should i find a way to mount it closer to the center on the truss or would the outside be fine?

[rockjeep44]

If you can it's best to incorporate half the traction bar mount into the pumpkin and the other half into the axle tube. This is a good idea because otherwise you run a much greater risk of spinning a tube. However, If your truss is super beef it's not as big of an issue but if it were me I'd still probably do the half and half mount.

[mudslider]

how could i strengthen it that way with up and down motion? i would have to angle the cross beams wouldnt that not be too strong? do you have any pics of one like that. i am willing to build anything with help. i understand what your saying totally and agree with you on that. its a very good idea. and i would like to see it come to life b/c i think it would help with ground clearance that way. please send me some pics if you have any. i do however have a really beefy truss that will be welded to the tubes and the cast housing . i have to brag on the truss alil bit, i mean it did take me two weeks with a die grinder and regular grinder to make

[rockjeep44]

Here's a couple pics I found of my old traction bar. This is the design that actually lasted. You can see it is still bent but not bad enough to keep me from running it.

http://www.rebelrockrunners.org/andrew/tb01.jpg

http://www.rebelrockrunners.org/andrew/tb02.jpg

Since you have a beefy truss integrating the mount into the diff isn't as big of an issue so do what ever is easier for you. Also, you can see where I welded a piece of box on the frame side as a drop down for the mount. That way the traction bar was at a more reasonable angle.

[ March 22, 2006, 09:27 AM: Message edited by: rockjeep44 ]

[mudslider]

here is my truss





the front plate is 1/8" steel plate and the rear is 1/4" plate the frame is 1/4" c-channel. it will weld to the center and tubes. i thought you were saying to weld the awb diagonally from the caston the top to the tubes on the bottom. so thats what my question came from with the crossbeams not being that strong being at an angle. is your pics the style you was talking about or is what you were talking about another style all together as i think it is?

[rockjeep44]

My pics illustrate what I was talking about. All I meant was that it's usually a good rule of thumb for some part of the traction bar mount to be welded to the cast center section. As you can see in my setup my mount is adjacent so it shares a weld with the cast center. This simple design distributes the load better than if it is only welded to the tubes in which case will make you prone to spinning a tube. However, your truss is beef so it's really a moot point.

[ March 22, 2006, 07:19 PM: Message edited by: rockjeep44 ]

[mudslider]

LOL i had a crazy image in my head of what i thought you was saying, thanks.