Roof skin needed, a really long shot.

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  • UKJeeper
    304 AMC
    • Feb 25, 2005
    • 1531

    Roof skin needed, a really long shot.

    Posting after a long absence, hoping someone can help.
    Many years ago I met a fellow UK FSJ'er, 'Shrek', on this board. Started to help him to get 'Freddie' (82 WT Cherokee) back on the road, until he passed away after a long battle with Aplastic Anaemia (a form of Leukaemia).
    I ended up inheriting Freddie, from his family, with the promise that I would do my best to finish Ben's work.
    The problem then, as it is now, that the roof is completely fubar. Rusted out pretty much all the way around, and one of Ben's family (Freddie was owned by at least five of his family over the years) removed the roof rack and sliders and left the SJ outside, so all the bolt holes are the size of half dollars.
    Every body shop i've talked to have said the only way to rescue the roof is to replace it. But, finding ANY SJ in the UK and probably Europe is impossible, let alone one with a roof skin to donate. I did find one, many years ago, on the other side of the country, but it's a bad as the original roof.
    So, I'm looking for a roof skin. Haven't yet found a vendor that sells them (pattern parts), so it'll be from a donor rig.
    A complete body would be a possible option, but Freddie is very rare in that it had the proper RHD drive conversion, and converting a LHD body to RHD would be a major job (unless there are any Aussie's looking to sell their WT Cherks...)
    If anyone out there has a roof skin, and we can arrange shipping 'across the pond', it'd be a massive step forward in getting Freddie back on the road and finishing Ben's project.





    '79 Cherokee 2 door (RIP)
    '79 Cherokee 4 door (RIP)
    '79 Cherokee 2 door (RIP)
    '82 Cherokee Chief
    Fiat Renegade...
  • MysticRob
    350 Buick
    • Nov 26, 2019
    • 819

    #2
    I wonder why a shop can't just patch the roof rail sections separately.
    The sloping roofline at the front would certainly require some expert metal fab and welding skills to correct, though i can't imagine an entire roof section being shipped to the UK to be any cheaper.
    I suppose the first thing would be to strip the entire roof and see exactly what you're working with.
    --Rob--
    1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan

    My build thread:
    https://forums.ifsja.org/forum/tire-...er-restoration

    My Howell TBI Install How-To:
    https://forums.ifsja.org/forum/tire-...rb-e-o-d-452-2

    Comment

    • babywag
      out of order
      • Jun 08, 2005
      • 10286

      #3
      Repairing all rust of existing roof by a body shop will have an astronomical cost.
      Much cheaper/easier to replace entire roof.
      Also there is likely hidden rust/damage under outer skin as well.

      Finding a whole roof may be expensive and challenging but in long run better choice.
      Tony
      88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

      Comment

      • Heep-J4000
        350 Buick
        • Feb 09, 2014
        • 872

        #4
        Your best option is to have a look in Holland for a complete roof or complete jeep.

        Some years ago i organised the shipping of a j10 cab to Ireland.
        Still have the contact info of the transporter.

        I maybe know a parts jeep wagoneer!
        Could ask for you if you want to see if the roof is in good shape!?

        If you go for a roof from the US you better buy a complete vehicle!
        It's easier with shipping and most of the times cheaper
        Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"

        http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974

        99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
        73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
        80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
        70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350

        Former vehicles:
        85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
        83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.

        Comment

        • DarkMonohue
          Shakes hands with danger
          • Jul 01, 2012
          • 1145

          #5
          Wow. Every winter I thank the various gods that they don't salt the roads out here. Might have to up that prayer schedule to monthly, or even weekly. That's nasty.

          I don't know where in the UK he's based, but this guy can evidently do the impossible. He's beyond corny on camera, and I have to fast-forward through all the mugging to get to the actual metalwork, but he does seem very skilled. Might be worth talking to him to at least see how he'd approach it. Maybe cutting it at the pillars would be easier than replacing the skin. Though I guess that depends on the donor being genuinely rust-free under the skin, which seems kind of unlikely.

          Also, interesting that you list your location as Essex County and not County Essex.
          Last edited by DarkMonohue; 08-29-2021, 05:01 PM.
          '85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles - not great, but better than walking.
          Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
          High quality junk here: intro thread and slow build thread

          Did you know? Willys is just Willis spelled differently, but pronounced the same. Neither Willy nor his apostrophe are involved.

          Comment

          • Brynjminjones
            258 I6
            • Jun 11, 2017
            • 475

            #6
            Hey Tim, long time no speak!

            There is a guy from Birties forum who is selling the shell of two FSJs at the moment. He's close to me in Derbyshire, I actually went to see them a few weeks ago.

            I didn't pay close attention to the roofs, but he had a 2dr and a 4dr Cherokee. The 2dr certainly looked rescuable to me.

            All the details are in a post in "Exchange and Mart" on Birties, his forum name is jeepdog. Having said all that, you'll probably say that you've already been in touch with him!
            1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

            1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
            1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
            1974 Ford F100 390

            Comment

            • letank
              AMC 4 OH! 1
              • Jun 03, 2002
              • 4129

              #7
              you need to realize that the roof is the visible damage... it probably extend below to the A pillar, the windshield portion of the roof down to the cowl...


              So if you need the roof take it with as much as roof support... all the way to the lower windows/windshield level


              I grabbed some bit a few months ago


              Michel
              74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
              85 Gwag, 229 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

              Comment

              • rang-a-stang
                Administrator
                • Oct 31, 2016
                • 5506

                #8
                Swapping the roof is the right answer! Another member did it on here a couple years back and even put up some videos! Look for member iapexl8r. I will see if I can find it and copy it here.
                Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                (Cherokee Build Thread)
                11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                00 Baby Cherokee

                Comment

                • rang-a-stang
                  Administrator
                  • Oct 31, 2016
                  • 5506

                  #9
                  Originally posted by iapexl8r
                  you can always go this route:
                  Monte and I are prepping and removing the roof on my 1976 Cherokee chief


                  Monte and Tim were busy so I tackled the work solo today

                  Monte and Tim were busy so I tackled the work solo today





                  Not seeing it I dont know if it would be best for you to go this far, but if your rust is not into the dimpled areas of the roof a good clean up and removal of as much of the rust as possible then fit a piece of sheet metal ant stitch weld it up.the curv should be fairly easy to replicate. sheet metal is cheap.



                  Chris
                  Here you go
                  Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                  (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                  (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                  79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                  (Cherokee Build Thread)
                  11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                  09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                  00 Baby Cherokee

                  Comment

                  • Tan79s
                    232 I6
                    • Dec 08, 2019
                    • 25

                    #10
                    I have an 83 with a pretty straight body, it currently has a pretty nice roof rack on it but it's likely sold. I'll take some pictures of the roof and if your interested I could send them to you. I saw someone selling whole roofs in Detroit a while back too, I can't remember if it was on here or the other site. Good luck!

                    Comment

                    • threepiece
                      350 Buick
                      • Sep 17, 2005
                      • 1433

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Tan79s
                      I saw someone selling whole roofs in Detroit a while back too, I can't remember if it was on here or the other site. Good luck!
                      I suppose that was me. I can offer roofs in a choice of five different colors.

                      I will also suggest to UKJ that investigating the extent of the damage would be prudent before procuring any parts. The afflicted roof panel can be removed by drilling the welds. An inspection can then be made and the panel can then be temporarily replaced to offer some protection. A decision can then be made to get an entire roof or just a skin.

                      If only a skin is needed you might consider cutting the skin in half. This may have a significant impact on shipping cost and reduce the chance of damage. The two halves could be nestled together in a more compact/robust package. The cut should be made in between two of the emboss/beads that run across the roof, preferably in the middle of them. For installation, a strip of metal flange perhaps twice the thickness of the panel could be tack welded to one of the halfs. When welded, the thicker flange will soak much of the heat reducing the chance of warping and offering authority in the area to control the shape. The beads/embosses on either side of the weld will also help to reducing warping. If done carefully and slowly I think the result would be good.
                      FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
                      We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
                      We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
                      Resistance is not futile yet.
                      Are you and your children connected yet?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Once you get the roof skin off, wire wheel the roof rails. Betting you have heavy rust there as well. Treat with a rust converter if saveable.
                        When you drill out the spot welds all around, take a metal putty knife and cut loose all the roof bows going across.
                        If the roof rails are thin or have hoped, you're better off doing pillar splices. Might he easier in the long run, only 6-8 short welds to finish off. If you do it that way, measure four times and cut once, you'll want to be within 1 - 1 & 1/2mm.
                        Art
                        ASE Master Collision Tech
                        "Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

                        88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

                        Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.

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