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Old 01-26-2008, 10:17 AM
YoungClayB YoungClayB is offline
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How to remove and clean door lock mechanism?

Hi Everyone,
I am trying to get my electric door locks working so that I can install a keyless entry system. So far, I have replaced the 2 door lock actuators on the drivers side (front and rear)...the front door locks work great, but the rear locks are still a little "sticky". I've searched the forums several times and the concensus is that I need to remove the entire door lock mechanism so that it can be cleaned, relubed, and then reinstalled, but I haven't seen any instructions on exactly how to remove the mechanism. Does anyone have any instructions or pointers?

Another thing I noticed while I was in the doors installing the actuators was some sort of expanding/perforated plastic/nylon tube that covers the rod running horizontally from the door lock knob over to the side of the door where the actual locking mechanism is located. It seems like this plastic cover is causing some additional friction in the assembly. Has anyone ever cut this nylon cover off of the rod? Did it help? Is there a reason why I would not want to get rid of this rod covering?

Thanks for the help,
-Clay
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Old 01-26-2008, 11:07 AM
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goldhammer goldhammer is offline
 
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Get out the set of torx bits or a # 3 phillips (can't remember which), remove the 3 bolts holding the lock asy in the door. Unhook the lock rod and inside handle rod. Wigle it out and clean with a good solvent or laquer thinner and a brush. Lube with a white lithium grease and put it back in. The sleeve does help reduce drag on the rod from panels, etc. Won't hurt to get rid of it if it helps in your case.
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Old 01-26-2008, 11:20 AM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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That sleeve is to protect the window from rubbing on the bare metal.
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Old 01-26-2008, 11:24 AM
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goldhammer goldhammer is offline
 
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I now stand corrected
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"Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

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Old 01-26-2008, 12:27 PM
andy d andy d is offline
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Coupla things to note. The throw on the pop up motors is less than an inch. Not only do you have to lube stuff up to reduce the drag, you need to massage the linkage to take up the slack. An 1/8th lost here and there in the linkage adds up and there isnt enough throw to trip the latch.
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Old 01-26-2008, 02:35 PM
YoungClayB YoungClayB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldhammer
Get out the set of torx bits or a # 3 phillips (can't remember which), remove the 3 bolts holding the lock asy in the door. Unhook the lock rod and inside handle rod. Wigle it out and clean with a good solvent or laquer thinner and a brush. Lube with a white lithium grease and put it back in. The sleeve does help reduce drag on the rod from panels, etc. Won't hurt to get rid of it if it helps in your case.

Ok, I've removed the 3 boltd holding the locky asy in the door. I have unhooked the lock rod. But I cannot figure out how to get the inside handle rod loose. Please help.
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Old 01-26-2008, 08:13 PM
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goldhammer goldhammer is offline
 
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If you can't turn the lock assy enough to slip it off the handle rod, take the handle rod and splined handle assy loose from the door. It is kind of a tab "A" into slot "B" arrangement. will have to get 90* to get them apart. Or take the handle out with the lock assy.
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88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

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  #8  
Old 01-27-2008, 10:38 AM
YoungClayB YoungClayB is offline
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Well, here's the thing. Once I unhooked the lock rod from the door lock assembly, I noticed that there is very little resistance coming from the door lock assembly. It looks like about 70% of the resistance is coming from the lock rod down to the actuator. I am at my wits end on this; should I just accept the fact that the power lock on this door is FUBAR? Or does anyone have any ideas that I could try?
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:13 AM
andy d andy d is offline
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the pop up consists of a tiny motor driving a rack with an even tinier gear. Pushing backward against this, you're fighting the gear reduction. From your description, I would say it is normal. What you may need to do is to bench test the pop up. That is what i did. 3 out 4 were ok and just needed lube and cleaning. The 4th , I may have killed messing with it. Also, the power for the rears is running through the RF switch and you may have loss from dirty sw contacts to deal with too. On the whole , its a pretty mickey mouse arrangement and I'm amazed they work at all.
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Old 01-27-2008, 03:49 PM
YoungClayB YoungClayB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy d
the pop up consists of a tiny motor driving a rack with an even tinier gear. Pushing backward against this, you're fighting the gear reduction. From your description, I would say it is normal. What you may need to do is to bench test the pop up. That is what i did. 3 out 4 were ok and just needed lube and cleaning. The 4th , I may have killed messing with it. Also, the power for the rears is running through the RF switch and you may have loss from dirty sw contacts to deal with too. On the whole , its a pretty mickey mouse arrangement and I'm amazed they work at all.

The left rear door is the one giving me fits and it has a brand new OEM door lock actuator in it that I just installed, so the pop-up motor is fine. You could be right about lossing power through the RF switch though.
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  #11  
Old 02-07-2008, 07:37 PM
YoungClayB YoungClayB is offline
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Hey guys. I solved my problem, so I figured I would post the solution here in case anyone else wants to know.

How to remove the door lock mechanism:
1. remove the 3 torx bolts holding the door lock mechanism in place
2. Put the door handle back on the spline and pull the handle as if you are opening the door (this will take a lot of the tension off of the assembly so that you can easily remove it)
3. Rotate the door lock mechanism 90 degrees and remove it. (You can see how it releases if you look in the little hole where the strike sticks out of the door jamb)

I also fixed my rear door lock!!! It may sound strange, but all I did was remove the torsion spring from the door lock mechanism and now it works perfectly. The friction on the front part of the lock rod assembly keeps the lock from falling I know this isn't the "correct" way to fix a sticky lock, but it sure works!!!
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