Rough country rear spring overload leaf

[deadironrat]

I have a rough country 3" lift on my 79' J10 and am in the process of installing blocks (I know they suck but the back is too low and I'm poor). I got 3" blocks which are a little taller then what I want but what I want to do is remove the very bottom overload spring. Its about half an inch thick and is completely flat. I've got the U-bolts off one side and the axle is free from the spring, but the bottom overload spring still won't come off. Its not held in by the spring clamps about half way up the springs so what gives, whats holding it on?


I have another question related to the springs also. Its about the little wedge that is supposed to correct the pinion angle when you install the lift. Should the big end of the wedge be facing the front of the truck or the back? It also wont come off of the springs.

Please let me know what I should do, I'd like to finish putting these blocks on tonight but I really want to remove the over load spring before I do it.

[fulsizjeep]

There is a bolt through the whole spring pack. The head is round and fits in a hole on the spring perches on the axle. If I take one apart, I prefer to replace that bolt. Ummm, the wedge... haven't messed with those before.

[deadironrat]

Flint,

what do you replace the bolt with?

[fulsizjeep]

Sorry - New spring pack bolts from the parts store. Probably get them from BJs too, but I know that does not help for tonight. Since you are taking the overload out you will be running the nut down further on the bolt. If yours are not rusted bad, maybe reuse. Just don't want to have one fail is why I change them. Sometimes with the use, age and rust, the round pin snaps off and axles slips on the spring. Makes for interesting ride.

[deadironrat]

Yeah the bolt snapped when I went to take the nut off. Looks like the bolts for the tranny cross member are the perfect size though and good grade 8 stuff ( I have some left over from my parts truck) so I'll just use those.


Does anyone know which way the wedge should be pointing? The way it was installed it was actually pointing the pinion farther down towards the ground then with no wedge, I'm almost positive this is wrong.

[deadironrat]

Well its 1:15AM and I finally got the 3" blocks installed after a few snags. With the overload leaf removed the truck sits great now. Before it sat about 1" low in the back and now its sits about 1"-1.5" high in the back. I also think that removing that leaf make the rear springs softer. I'll go out tomorrow and drive it up the ramp and see how its flexs now. I'll make sure to grab some pictures of it.

[tgreese]

A spring center bolt (that's what they are called IME) is a standard parts store item. It will have a long threaded length and a button head (not sure what it's called - not hex, more like a socket head) meant to fit in the pocket in the perches. The long threaded length is so you can snug it up to pull the pack together, then cut off the extra length.

If a plain grade 8 bolt works (ie fits into the perch pockets), using that will be fine.

The wedges should point the axle pinion more up toward the transfer case to reduce the driveshaft angle - fat side to the front. If they are in backwards, they will make the driveshaft angle worse (ie larger).

[HellCreek]

If a spring center bolt cannot be located at your local parts store, you can always use a socket head cap screw. The have the same size head (9/16"), they are Grade 8 or 9, plus they have the allen wrench socket to hold the head from turning while you tighten the nut. The thick end of the shim should go toward the Rear of the spring (or vehicle). The thick leaf that you removed is called a "second stage leaf" It serves the same purpose as an overload (which fits on the top of a spring pack) to give you extra capacity when you are carrying a load.

[deadironrat]

Here are the pictures of my truck flexing after the blocks.













After that I checked the blocks and found this.




And this.




Needless to say the blocks will be coming off and will get replaced with something else. Has anyone tried Rustys full length add a leafs made for FSJs?

[deadironrat]

No one has used rustys full length add a leafs?

[fulsizjeep]

We are happy with 2" Rusty's AALs we put on a Waggy in 2002. They are only on the back now since she got even taller the next year.

[mcjeep80]

if those shims were for the rear springs then the fat part should be in the rear. this way it pulls the pinion side up more.

[addicted]

if those shims were for the rear springs then the fat part should be in the rear. this way it pulls the pinion side up more.

That probably explains the carnage. Either way it is pretty scary!

[deadironrat]

if those shims were for the rear springs then the fat part should be in the rear. this way it pulls the pinion side up more.

Ok now you have confused me. The fat part IS in the rear, which IS making the pinion point more up towards the transfercase. Do I really even need use the shims? I only have a 3" lift.


I agree that its pretty scary that autozone would sell something with quality this poor. I drove for less then half an hour before this happened.

[4x4fEvEr]

If you have 3 inch liff springs then an add a leaf won't do you any good unless its sagging so much they are flat. Looks like that shim was aluminum which is junk. Axle wrap probably took out the shims and blocks. Either get stock springs and do a shackle flip or get 6" lift springs. What lift is on the front?