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wincher 04-26-2020 12:30 PM

[quote]
Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
Have a question to this ammeter removal guide
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
Here the initial situation.










and here the revision:












- Why the 14 GA fusible link from alternator to starter relay? Why is here a protection needed?

- why the 2 wires red and black from the 16 gauge link through the firewall connector? red and black are linked to one wire (16 gauge) and go to the fuse box, light swith and ignition. one of the thick existing wires should be enough for the reduced amperes. the wire comes with a small 16 gauge for protecting the circuit, and goes with two wires in. Why not save the red wire and the splice (ammeter)?



To go save with this complex work i ask again:
(In the above mentiond scheme the black should be 12red10 and teh red )shoud be 550yellow 10


- have removed the 55yellow10 wire from connector to ammeter. The male/female connector was bad, the isolation melted
- have disconnected the 12 red 10 from the ammeter
- 12 red 10: the fusible link at the the starter soleniod is not existing. Gauge 10 is directly connected at the soleniod
- 12 red 10: under dash is a splice for fusebox, light and ignition swich. OK


I should like to the second scheme with the bypass, but without the 55 yellow under the dash.
- Alternator Bat 12red10 to starter relay, with fusilbe link 14 gauge ( I have to use 2,5mm square)



- soleniod to under the dash with 12red10 and fusible link 16 gauge (1,5mm square), without a male/female connector (at the dash connector, )Drilling a hole through the old 12A connector for the wire.


Do you agree?
Thanks for your support, have read the fee ammeter be gone-wiring question rom tgreese with his solution for one wire through the firewall.



regards,

wincher 04-27-2020 01:58 PM

I dont understand that.


Why the 14 GA fusible link from alternator to starter relay? Why is here a protection needed?


14 gauge is to less for the alternator amps or not?:confused::confused::confused:


When 100amps circuit breaker is the alternative to the 14 gauge fusible link..

wincher 05-01-2020 12:11 PM

Is a holley 0-8007 390cfm a Good choice for the 360 Engine?
Van get a used One and replace the carter Afb 625
:confused: :confused:

wiley-moeracing 05-01-2020 12:15 PM

It will work but is to small to properly feed the 360. Look into a 600 cfm size.

wincher 05-01-2020 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiley-moeracing
It will work but is to small to properly feed the 360. Look into a 600 cfm size.

The Original motorcraft 2150 is less than 400cfm too.

wiley-moeracing 05-01-2020 01:45 PM

That 390 carb was meant for the 258 with 4bbl intake, the 2 bbl carb came in different cfm's depending on model. Like I said, it will work but will run out of steam very quickly.

wincher 05-02-2020 01:06 PM

Thanks wiley.

wincher 05-04-2020 01:24 PM

Alternator wiring
 
Pic from the 1978 manual. wire 1 and 2 to the solenoid..






This is my alternator.
12red = bat (yellow plastik connecter is replaced now by soldering connector)
the connector aside with the blue connector is the 44 green to the voltage regulator
the green wire was the electric choke with about 6 V
have replaced them. Choke is now from 13A red when ignition is ON



is this ok?


(The oil pressure sender is renewed too and has now a thread for the connector)




wincher 05-04-2020 01:27 PM

tomorrow i will buy a 100 amp curcuit breaker for the wire between alternator and starter solenoid


is it really proper and recommended for my alternator ?

wincher 05-14-2020 10:46 AM

Today i did my drive to the licencing office
about 10 km single distance.
at the return trip the exhaust becomes louder from the engine bay
Look at the sealing. I have this sealing new mounted!!
It is like rubber:confused: and total broken.
have bought 2 pieces, one for sparepart...



(have complained it by the dealer here in germany..)







wincher 05-14-2020 11:53 AM

Have bought a replacement fuel filter with the 3 hoses, one for the return to the tank.
what i have read ist the return tube on the top.

Than means the filter is horizontal mounted.
What is the original place to mount them?
With a clamp at the intake manifold or the steering pump holder?

or is the filter only inline the tube without a clamp?
a pic would be helpful..
thanks in advance!

rang-a-stang 05-14-2020 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
Today i did my drive to the licencing office
about 10 km single distance.
at the return trip the exhaust becomes louder from the engine bay
Look at the sealing. I have this sealing new mounted!!
It is like rubber:confused: and total broken.
have bought 2 pieces, one for sparepart...

(have complained it by the dealer here in germany..)

hahahah! That looks like the previous owner got lazy and instead of fixing a leak, he just plastered some sort of goo on it!

Once you replaced it, you are good to go, right?

You have a license for it now? Did you hit freeway speeds yet? How was the drive (other than getting loud)?
Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
Have bought a replacement fuel filter with the 3 hoses, one for the return to the tank.
what i have read ist the return tube on the top.

Than means the filter is horizontal mounted.
What is the original place to mount them?
With a clamp at the intake manifold or the steering pump holder?

or is the filter only inline the tube without a clamp?
a pic would be helpful..
thanks in advance!

Yep, Horizontal mounting. From the factory, there is a hard line that comes out the fuel pump, runs up between the water pump and power steering pump, along the manifold, the loops over to the fuel filter. The fuel filter usually sits right around the valve cover. the middle nipple then feeds the carb, and a soft line comes out the upper nipple and travels down the side of the engine to the hard line on the frame rail.

There was no clamp to hold the fuel filter to the engine. It was only held on by the fuel lines.

wincher 05-15-2020 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Quote:

hahahah! That looks like the previous owner got lazy and instead of fixing a leak, he just plastered some sort of goo on it!



The old was not good but was still in one piece
I replaced it preventive conjoined i did a new gasket at the right side at the exhaust heat valve..

The new one is scrap made in india:mad:



Once you replaced it, you are good to go, right?

You have a license for it now? Did you hit freeway speeds yet? How was the drive (other than getting loud)?

Yep, Horizontal mounting. From the factory, there is a hard line that comes out the fuel pump, runs up between the water pump and power steering pump, along the manifold, the loops over to the fuel filter. The fuel filter usually sits right around the valve cover. the middle nipple then feeds the carb, and a soft line comes out the upper nipple and travels down the side of the engine to the hard line on the frame rail.

There was no clamp to hold the fuel filter to the engine. It was only held on by the fuel lines.





Yes it drives.

the kickdown works now

the steering is indirect. (for german cercumstances;))
carb setting is not optimal.. from idle to throttle is a bog sometimes.
The people are unbelievable turning their heads with different facial expressions::eek::omfg::):). ,mine was :D

wincher 05-16-2020 05:38 AM

carburetor setting
 
Hi,

after my first drive about 2x10km it seems the carburettor is to rich.
Please lets talk about the cruise setting and take a look on my chart:


The number under the rod size is to compare the size of the circular area between rod and jet diameter as a indicator for lean or rich)
I have now a 625cmf Carter AFB with 95 MJ and 70x47 rod, the circular area is 130 (blue marking)
(The stock setting of the carb is same rod with 98 MJ)

A Edelbrock 1406 with stock setting 98MJ and 75x47 ihas a area of 125 (pink) - a little leaner.
If I go to a 75x47 rod with the 95MJ the cruise is 107 (orange), "much" leaner as the 125 and leaner than the Number 8 in the edelbrock Chart with 73x47 and 95MJ too. (gray)



What is your introduction for my further setting?


Thanks in advance!








wiley-moeracing 05-16-2020 06:13 AM

Sorry a little hard to see but if its running good with no bog, hiccups, or sputters while driving, drop the jet size 1 down and try again.

wincher 05-16-2020 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiley-moeracing
Sorry a little hard to see but if its running good with no bog, hiccups, or sputters while driving, drop the jet size 1 down and try again.

Bog is Maybe a Topic...
Have to fix the exhaust sealing first and Drive again.
I have new 92 MJ here but no smaler Size.
The secundaries Jets 92 too ?

wiley-moeracing 05-17-2020 07:14 AM

Bog where? How is power mode? How is the transition from cruise to power?
Make sure you have the float level correct and is the choke fully off and adjusted correctly?

wincher 05-23-2020 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiley-moeracing
Bog where? How is power mode? How is the transition from cruise to power?
Make sure you have the float level correct and is the choke fully off and adjusted correctly?



I have rebuild the carb with a kit from mikescarburetorparts in Januar/Februar.
I think i have the float level and all other meassurements adjusted dainty as recommended
the engine is to rich. it smells of unburned fuel.
When cruising in the 3 gear and kick down there is no bog and the engine revs well (but i have no comparison)
from idle quick to full throttle there is a short bog..



Today bad starting in the morning...
Today i have got the 75x47 rods and installed them.

will try it the next days (Because i have the diffs open for inspection, new diff cover sealing ...)

wiley-moeracing 05-23-2020 01:35 PM

How is your ignition system? a weak spark can cause this also.

wincher 05-23-2020 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiley-moeracing
How is your ignition system? a weak spark can cause this also.



unfortunately i have not checks the ignition timing because our stroboskop lamp is not working for years.

the coil is nearly new.


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