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-   -   To Do List for my 1979 Chief (http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188104)

rang-a-stang 08-30-2020 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
Front Driveshaft
I will order a 4" lift kit from rustys to level my chief.
Is a longer driveshaft neccesary and how to get one?...

With my Front shackle reversal and springs with about 3" of lift, I had to have my front shaft lengthened. I had a member on here rebuild the cardon joint at the top, add a long travel yoke and made to the length I needed.
Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
...
rims
I have used 33s tires but not a second set of rims, and will not dismantle the 31s from the rims.
My rims are steel chrome, looks like the cragar chrome nomad 2 from summit (8 spoke)

Which rims was original on the chiefs?
only the white 8 spoke rims i have seen on many pictures?
can buy from a friend rally rims, but sandblasting and powder coating is a must (they are purple)
I think black was not a color of the 70s and not fittable. the car must be mostly original for the historic car licence in germany.

I have seen the white 8 spoke rims and the aluminum mag rims. Like these:

I have only seen 1980 and up with the chrome 8 spoke rims. I am not going to say they did not come on 1979 and earlier but I do not remember seeing a picture of a factory truck with them.
Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
today a rainy sunday morning.
Time to install the oxygen sensor.

First impression - the way home.

idles with 11,9 to 12,5
fuel cutoff was about 16, but not a high rpm(50-55mp/h)
WOT in green area. have to test it again.

is it right to adjust the idle mixture screws to 14,7AFR?
(AEM manual says WOT10,5 - Idle/Cruise 14,7
- cutoff 20,0)

That's how I would do it! 14.7 at idle/cruise. But I think I would do 11 at WOT. 10.5 seems a tad rich.

rang-a-stang 08-30-2020 10:16 PM

BTW, how's the garage coming along?

wincher 08-31-2020 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
BTW, how's the garage coming along?


Its a Desaster. The carpenter has moved Me.
I am ,looking for another company. But All have Full orderbooks.
I Hope i get a the most done before the autumn and the Snow..
:banghead:

wincher 08-31-2020 11:30 AM

Yesterday i has a temporarily new failure
The front flasher flashes Alternately with the Head Light!
Now it is still ok.

rang-a-stang 08-31-2020 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
Its a Desaster. The carpenter has moved Me.
I am ,looking for another company. But All have Full orderbooks.
I Hope i get a the most done before the autumn and the Snow..
:banghead:

OH NO!!! That is terrible!
Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
Yesterday i has a temporarily new failure
The front flasher flashes Alternately with the Head Light!
Now it is still ok.

That sounds like a ground. I think mine did this when I was putting my front sheet metal and wiring back together. Make sure all the grounds behind the headlights are tight and on good metal.

wincher 08-31-2020 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
OH NO!!! That is terrible!


Yes, i become nervous and ill if my jeeps have to stay in rainy Weather
Quote:

Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
That sounds like a ground. I think mine did this when I was putting my front sheet metal and wiring back together. Make sure all the grounds behind the headlights are tight and on good metal.

Thanks, have to check them. Have done a new ground wire from Battery to Dash Panel and amplifier with the oxygen Sensor Work

wincher 09-07-2020 12:09 PM

Carb setting
 
today evening a short test parking in front of the garage
Engine warmed up, choke open.
idle mixture screws a litte more closed.
only manifold vacuum
10timing (idle)
pump lever in the middle from the 3 holes


starts very quickly:thumbsup:
idles now at 14.2-14,4 AFR
fast acceleration from idle: short to 10.5-11 (fuel from the pump, gasshock)
very fast acceleration: can provoke a bog, mean a lean bog with short 20 or more AFR:thumbsdown:


slow acceleration and hold the higher rpm: with higher rpm the AFR gets leaner up to 16-17,2



remember:

Carter AFB 625

MJ95, Sec Jet 92
rod 70x47

yellow springs

rang-a-stang 09-07-2020 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
today evening a short test parking in front of the garage
Engine warmed up, choke open.
idle mixture screws a litte more closed.
only manifold vacuum
10timing (idle)
pump lever in the middle from the 3 holes

starts very quickly:thumbsup:
idles now at 14.2-14,4 AFR
fast acceleration from idle: short to 10.5-11 (fuel from the pump, gasshock)
very fast acceleration: can provoke a bog, mean a lean bog with short 20 or more AFR:thumbsdown:

slow acceleration and hold the higher rpm: with higher rpm the AFR gets leaner up to 16-17,2

remember:

Carter AFB 625

MJ95, Sec Jet 92
rod 70x47

yellow springs

Again, I am not a huge carb guy (hopefully one of them will chime in) but it sounds like your accelerator pump is coming in too late and your secondaries are a little small. I would probably go to a 94 on your secondaries and move the accelerator pump arm to the top hole and see what that does. The top hole will hopefully fix the very fast acceleration lean out/bog and the larger secondaries will hopefully fix the slow acceleration leaning out.

Also, you verified your vacuum can on your distributor is working correctly right?

wincher 09-07-2020 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Again, I am not a huge carb guy (hopefully one of them will chime in) but it sounds like your accelerator pump is coming in too late and your secondaries are a little small. I would probably go to a 94 on your secondaries and move the accelerator pump arm to the top hole and see what that does. The top hole will hopefully fix the very fast acceleration lean out/bog and the larger secondaries will hopefully fix the slow acceleration leaning out.

Also, you verified your vacuum can on your distributor is working correctly right?


No, i have only connected the distributor on the manifold port of the carburetor without the cto switch.
I can go to a 95 secondary. With die 47 Rod (power)it was die same like a 1406 edelbrock Stock Setting f

wincher 09-11-2020 12:17 PM

I try to explain what happend today



I dismounted the air horn for changing my secondary jets from 092 to 095.
(i did a overhaul in spring with mikes carburretor parts and adjusted all like described)



The following is noticed


1) the primary venturys are light black sooty (the cruise mode was too rich until now) context?


2) the float level of both floats outer end to horn gasket is aproxx 8-10/32.
In manual it is 5/16. i have adjusted it with the overhaul



4)problem: the fuel height - measured at the float bowl buffle - was right as high as the buffle cutout but in the left bowl clearly lower!:eek:
(about 5mm)


Why is here less fuel in the bowl with the same float adjustement and new needles??



Here not importand

5)I had the connector rod from the pump lever in middel hole.
The Carter manual says bottom hole and 13/32from to of bowl cover to top of plunger stem.
I will change to bottom hole to reduce the lean bog. right?


Any tip for me??
regards!

wiley-moeracing 09-11-2020 11:28 PM

Do you have the pvc hose hooked into the air cleaner? If so you could be sucking in oil through that, if not then you may have some valve sealing issues in the heads?

wincher 09-12-2020 04:23 PM

Yes the crankcase breather is connected with the air Cleaner.

wiley-moeracing 09-13-2020 06:53 AM

This could be why your venturi's are dirty, the venturi's should not get dirty with use unless you have a motor pushing oil out into the pvc system and into the air cleaner housing or you have backfires through the carb.

wincher 09-13-2020 07:18 AM

Is this normal with Original breather on the air cleaner.?
Foam plastic missing for oil Dust?

wincher 09-13-2020 08:06 AM

Test with 95 sec jets and pump linkage in the upper hole.
road to mountain valley station 1050 m about see level uphill and downhill



idles about 13,5-14
WOT uphill, fast accerlation 12,5 (+- 0,3?)

WOT never under 12.

compare with the edelbrock carb owens manual page 3, with the diagramm A/F ratio. edelbrock says: best power between 12-13 ) :thumbsup:
slowly uphill behind a camper, nearly idle.. 11,5:confused:
pet the pedal to drive so slowly and it is rich??


normal cruising flat road :14-15

downhill with engine break,shutoff up to 20. 20 is end of scale

i think the bog is nearly gone!

summary i have no very rich unter 11 or lean over 17 Ratio

except the very slow uphill drive is remarkable
good driveable



(Have to check my pedal and bowden cable.
the pedal hangs light in idle position,i cant accelerate smooth
this is new.

I have nothing changed with the cable.
Maybe the pump is to far out and jam up)

wincher 10-05-2020 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wincher
Hi,
this is not the current status.

Fuel and oil pressure works, Temp not or only a little
have changed the temp sender to times.

Sender ok. 5 V from new CVR to sender ok. Resistance from sender ot ground/Battery ok. I think the gauge is the failure.

The failure





having not temp gauge makes me crazy


are the capacitors needed with the 7805 voltage regulator?
Have built the CVR new again. One CVR for all guages,without the capacitors


is it possible to fix the gauge?? open it and put out the old cvr or something like that??
or is a new gauge needed.

rang-a-stang 10-06-2020 07:46 AM

I didn't have to add a capacitor to my CVR.

If your other gauges that use the 5v reference are working correctly (Fuel and oil), then the issue must either be the Temp sender (doubtful since you have replaced it twice), wiring to/from the gauge (doubtful since when you ground the sender wire, the Temp gauge sweeps) or the gauge itself.

Since you have added your own external 5V, make sure the old CVR is bypassed inside the gauge. If it is not, you have the wrong voltage on the guage itselt and it will not work. Here is what I am talking about electrically on the diagram:

The red line shows where you need to make sure there is no voltage (cut the line).

Here is how it looks, practically:

On mine, I was able to shrink wrap the post and that isolated everything.

babywag 10-06-2020 09:29 AM

just fyi you should mimic 6v system for guages.
meaning a 7.5v regulator should be used vs. 5v

wincher 10-07-2020 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
I didn't have to add a capacitor to my CVR.

If your other gauges that use the 5v reference are working correctly (Fuel and oil), then the issue must either be the Temp sender (doubtful since you have replaced it twice), wiring to/from the gauge (doubtful since when you ground the sender wire, the Temp gauge sweeps) or the gauge itself.

Since you have added your own external 5V, make sure the old CVR is bypassed inside the gauge. If it is not, you have the wrong voltage on the guage itselt and it will not work. Here is what I am talking about electrically on the diagram:

The red line shows where you need to make sure there is no voltage (cut the line).

Here is how it looks, practically:

On mine, I was able to shrink wrap the post and that isolated everything.





Oh no!:banghead:
I have the gauge out and in the hand and was scared about open it.


Stop:

I have 5V on A3 from my 5 V CVR

The gauge is between A3 and S3
I ist out of function, have no 12 V from 14 to 15 because my radio supression is out
based on this the old gauge cvr has no effect.
what am i doing wrong?

wincher 10-07-2020 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babywag
just fyi you should mimic 6v system for guages.
meaning a 7.5v regulator should be used vs. 5v





All i have read was with the 5V CVR and i followed the instructions:



https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/vie...594f8&start=40


fuel gauge seems ok.
oil pressure is less to zero but this is "quite normal" with an old AMC or a known problem.


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