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Originally Posted by yankeedog
any body running a 5 speed from a 4 liter wrangler behind a 360?
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I just finished installing mine last weekend.
The 208 has a long input gear so you would need a '95 or later trans if you didnt want to run a spacer.
The FSJ uses the same clocking as the xj, the yj uses a flatter clocking. My trans came out of a yj and I had to redrill the adapter for the lower clocking. Even the 231 would not fit with the yj clocking.
An option is to get an earlier (short input) trans and use the 208 with a clocking ring that is 7/8 thick.
Heres the stuff that will bite you.
Hydraulic clutch.
Search, there are options. I needed to keep my vacuum booster and made a bracket to space the booster an additional 2.375" off the firewall. My trans was from a '92, so I just ordered up a clutch master from a '92.
Flywheel.
The v8 flywheel is taller (from the crankflange to the disk surface) than the 4.0 flywheel. My measurements gave a good chance that the extra protrusion into the bellhousing would interfere with proper slave cylinder operation so I had the 4.0 flywheel match balanced to the 360 flexplate to avoid any potential problem.
The 4.0 flywheel is about 1-2lbs lighter than the v8 flywheel I have.
Pilot bearing.
The 92 and later ax and nv trans uses a .750" pilot tip so this doesnt apply to the earlier trans.
The clutch kit will come with the correct bearing but not the sleeve to fit it into the torque converter bore in the back of the crank. The correct part is FC-69907, I have the Mopar # somewhere, but you can google it. It was $17 at the dealer and about $15 at NAPA.
Now...
The converter bore in my 360 crank wasnt as deep as the 4.0. This concerned me so I test fitted the trans without the clutch installed to check if the input would bottom on the bearing. It looked like the face of the input was rubbing on the bearing but when I took the trans out the grease line left on the input tip showed about .090" clearance. I consider this an absolute minimum clearance, well see how it lasts.
Crossmember.
Using the ax15 with the yj trans mount, the crossmember is in the rear position on the frame. Although only slightly longer over all, the ax15 mount is farther back on the trans than the 727 and it is not centered. It is about 1/2" over to the passenger side so you will end up with overlapping holes for the trans mount. I just made a doubler plate for the underside to make up for the loss of material.
Its also very advisable to use the "torque arm mount" on the trans. This unfortunately is positioned to line up with the crossmember in the forward position. I solved this by welding some 2x2 off the front of the crossmember to line up under the mount and attached it there.
TC shifter.
The yj shifter will not work when the transfer case is clocked down. The geometry changes just enough that it wont shift past neutral. Im sure that it can be modified to work but I ran out of time and just bought the Novak shifter kit.
I just ordered a NOS 80-87 (NP transfercase) style SJ manual trans shifter boot, it should be here today. Expensive but it will look factory. If you do get the yj shifter to work, the yj uses an inner and outer boot that the dealer wants about $140 for. Try to get it from the donor.
The 3550 is dimentionally identical to the ax15, although the plate for the trans mount may have changed, I havnt seen one though.
If you are going to go thru with it and have more questions, just ask. Ill have it on the road in a few days. I have taken a few pic's thru the swap, but not enough to really document it. If you nee to see anything I can still get to, lemme know and Ill see what I can do.
k.
roject budget buster
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