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01-30-2009, 11:23 AM
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Join Date: Jul 30, 2003
Location: Normal, Oklahoma
Posts: 8,682
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6.2L Diesel advice needed
I am searching in earnest now for a 6.2 to put in the Cherokee. Can any of you 6.2 Diesel guys give me any advice what to look for or avoid?
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Mark B. Jones
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Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.
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'76 401 Wagoneer
'79 Chief "Junaluska"
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01-30-2009, 11:24 AM
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Join Date: Dec 30, 2008
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 147
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why? is there something cool about them I'm not aware of?
My family had a suburban with that motor. Slow, unreliable, and not particularly efficient.
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2003 Maxima
2002 P71
1979 RX-7
1979 Wagoneer
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01-30-2009, 11:35 AM
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Join Date: Jul 20, 2003
Location: Forney,TX
Posts: 5,465
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Because they are inexpensive, can be built to about 200hp (which is plenty for a DD) get about 20-22mpg, fit on SBC motor mounts, and fit well in the engine bay.
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David "If all else fails, read the instructions."
83 Wag Lt,BJ's 6"lift,360/727/Pinned229,D44/trac-lok,AMC20/lock-right,35/12.50 Baja MTZ,Pro-Jection EFI.
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01-30-2009, 12:01 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 19, 2006
Location: KS
Posts: 46
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Check out Diesel Place for potential engine health-related issues.
Also check out
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220268
to see what you'll run into when installing it. There are a few helpful install threads if you search this site as well.
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01-30-2009, 12:13 PM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Feb 02, 2006
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 934
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A few things I found out:
- If you can drive it, run through this:
Start it cold, make sure glow plugs work. Observe smoke. If white smoke persists, it may have a blown head gasket. Happens a lot on these if they're abused.
Warm it up, see if smoke clears, idle smooths out.
Drive, get the usual impressions you look for.
Once it's good and warmed up (operating temperature), turn it off, wait a few minutes, and try starting again. If it doesn't start (just turns over), the injection pump may be worn. That's an expensive repair (ask me how I know).
- See if you can get a 6.5 instead. There were a lot of improvements made to the block casting for the 6.5, and later is better, from what I hear.
Good luck, and welcome to the soot-shooter world!
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Don't be yourself. Be someone a little nicer. -Mignon McLaughlin, journalist and author (1913-1983)
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01-30-2009, 12:52 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Dec 05, 2008
Location: Boulder Creek, Ca
Posts: 294
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Belteshazzar
why? is there something cool about them I'm not aware of?
My family had a suburban with that motor. Slow, unreliable, and not particularly efficient.
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I have an '89 Chevy G20 full size van with the 6.2. It may be slow, but it's faster than my '82 Cherokee with the 6cyl!. It will also pull a trailer on the freeway at 70mph all day long. (Takes quite a while to get to 70, but once there, it cruises) I regularly get 18mpg overall, and have seen as high as 22mpg on the highway. Not bad for a huge box with no aerodynamics!
I've had it since 1990, in that time I've had the glow plug controller fail, which fried the glow plugs. The transmission failed once due to a poorly made part from the factory, other than that, every problem I've had was the van stuff, never the motor. I change the oil, air, and fuel filters on a regular basis, and that's pretty much it for maintentence.
Imagine having a FSJ that never breaks............... 
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01-30-2009, 01:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 30, 2008
Location: texarkana,tx
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look for a later model with serpintine belt drive they have the internal upgrades that fixed the plagues of the early models. beware of military engines as they have a 24volt system and i think youll need to replace the injection pump and other related items to the 12v civilian models
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1990 gw build in progress  roject budget buster
got bjs offroad on my speed dial
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01-30-2009, 02:04 PM
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Perfesser of Jeepology
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Join Date: Jun 15, 2000
Location: Carpentersville, IL 60110
Posts: 9,213
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IIRC, the mil versions have a mechanical pump, but I could be wrong about that, been a while.
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Jeep Grounds
RRV Homepage
Texas Full Size Jeep Association
1987 Grand Wagoneer
AMC 360/TF727/NP229
1999 Wrangler Sport
4.0L/AX-15/NV231
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“Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction” by Ronald Reagan.
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Formerly of DFW/Gun Barrel City, TX - eventually to return...
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01-30-2009, 02:09 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 30, 2008
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 147
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RubiconMike
I have an '89 Chevy G20 full size van with the 6.2. It may be slow, but it's faster than my '82 Cherokee with the 6cyl!. It will also pull a trailer on the freeway at 70mph all day long. (Takes quite a while to get to 70, but once there, it cruises) I regularly get 18mpg overall, and have seen as high as 22mpg on the highway. Not bad for a huge box with no aerodynamics!
I've had it since 1990, in that time I've had the glow plug controller fail, which fried the glow plugs. The transmission failed once due to a poorly made part from the factory, other than that, every problem I've had was the van stuff, never the motor. I change the oil, air, and fuel filters on a regular basis, and that's pretty much it for maintentence.
Imagine having a FSJ that never breaks............... 
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that's fine. I just hadn't had a good experience and didn't see the sense of it.
__________________
2003 Maxima
2002 P71
1979 RX-7
1979 Wagoneer
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01-31-2009, 07:37 AM
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Join Date: Jul 30, 2003
Location: Normal, Oklahoma
Posts: 8,682
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Yeah, my Cummins is no race rocket either, but it will tow my boat all day and give back 20 MPG while doing it. with the air on. up hill.
I have a line on an older model (84) van that the owner says has been rebuilt, heads reworked, inj pump rebuilt (?) new lift pump, I can hear it run but the tranny is "bad". I have asked what "bad" means exactly and am waiting on a response. I have also found a newer model 6.5 but I don't really want to have to deal with an ECU.
__________________
Mark B. Jones
Quote:
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Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.
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'76 401 Wagoneer
'79 Chief "Junaluska"
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01-31-2009, 12:07 PM
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King Browless
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Join Date: Nov 30, 2001
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 6,445
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RubiconMike
I have an '89 Chevy G20 full size van with the 6.2. It may be slow, but it's faster than my '82 Cherokee with the 6cyl!. It will also pull a trailer on the freeway at 70mph all day long. (Takes quite a while to get to 70, but once there, it cruises) I regularly get 18mpg overall, and have seen as high as 22mpg on the highway. Not bad for a huge box with no aerodynamics!
I've had it since 1990, in that time I've had the glow plug controller fail, which fried the glow plugs. The transmission failed once due to a poorly made part from the factory, other than that, every problem I've had was the van stuff, never the motor. I change the oil, air, and fuel filters on a regular basis, and that's pretty much it for maintentence.
Imagine having a FSJ that never breaks............... 
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HERE HERE!!
I've got a '93 GMC 3500 extended length cargo van which is just as you have described about yours.
It's no Speed Racer, but it will get out of its own way rather smartly.
I've not checked the milege as I know I need to replace some injectors, but it does much better than the 360 in my J20.
I would like to get 18-20mpg, but its 14FF rearend is stuffed with 4:10 gears, so I am not getting my hopes up.
The only think I dislike about my van is that it rides like a tractor.
My cargo van is a steel box on wheels...very loud (no interior), rough riding (9700 GVW)
A 6.2 is a great Diesel swap canidate for a FSJ.
I bought my van as a donor for a FSJ, but I've decided to hang onto the van for a while.
__________________
Bryan Smith
1982 J10: Replacement engine now sitting in the truck! No Cab Brow! Future DD
1981 J20: Commercial flat bed. Long term Project: RUST! No Cab Brow!
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Originally Posted by Jayrodoh
...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Lindel
Best laid plans, yada yada yada... 
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ristow
because Ristow sez so
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When the IFSJA forum has a problem go here:
www.fsjnetwork.com
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01-31-2009, 12:11 PM
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King Browless
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Join Date: Nov 30, 2001
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 6,445
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by 710 Burner
I have also found a newer model 6.5 but I don't really want to have to deal with an ECU.
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The way to get around the ECU is replace the DB4 electronic Injector Pump with a DB2 mechanical pump from a 6.2.
Afterwards...NO stinking computer as the engine is now a total mechanical motor!
__________________
Bryan Smith
1982 J10: Replacement engine now sitting in the truck! No Cab Brow! Future DD
1981 J20: Commercial flat bed. Long term Project: RUST! No Cab Brow!
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Jayrodoh
...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Lindel
Best laid plans, yada yada yada... 
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ristow
because Ristow sez so
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When the IFSJA forum has a problem go here:
www.fsjnetwork.com
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01-31-2009, 01:33 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 12, 2002
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 118
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by thomastenn
look for a later model with serpintine belt drive they have the internal upgrades that fixed the plagues of the early models. beware of military engines as they have a 24volt system and i think youll need to replace the injection pump and other related items to the 12v civilian models
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The only 24 volt parts on the military trucks is the glow plug controller and the starter, otherwise it is all 12 volt.
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1974_J10 and a bunch of parts sitting around
built 401 with 460ish HP at the flywheel
soon to be sm465 & divorced NP205
Rockwells_16r20 Michelin XZL's
Still lots to do and $ to spend
1983 Cherokee Chief Laredo
258/727/229
d44/AMC20 3.31
Saw this jem at the Pic-n-pull and bought it for $600 on the spot.
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01-31-2009, 03:34 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 03, 2005
Location: Richboro, PA
Posts: 134
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Watch for cracked heads! They are also notarious for cracked blocks. Beware of any 6.2/6.5 that has been rebuilt, a lot of machine shops don't get the boring tools lined up properly and the rear cylinders get bored all crooked. I learned a lot of $expensive$ lessons building mine, and by the time it was complete, I didn't want it anymore. I sold it for a fraction of my investment and dropped a 4bt in the truck. Go industrial the first time and don't worry every time you drive it! Just my opinion.
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'68 M715, Cummins P-pump 5.9, NV4500, NP205, 14 bolt/Dana 60, 20x10 American Racing Mojave's w/12.50R20 Michelin XL's, relentless rust....
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05-30-2009, 11:50 PM
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Gear Head
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Join Date: Mar 09, 2003
Location: Napa Caifornia
Posts: 652
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If you stick with NA then make sure you have open intake and exhaust, it does wonders for performance on a diesel.
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