surface rust removal?

[gte901m]

The top and hood of my chero has some surface rust. It’s not bad, but I want to take care of it before it becomes bad. I have never done any type of body work, so I need some advice. My chero is a play toy and not a show truck. I was thinking about sanding it somehow and spraying it with some rattle can paint that is close to the original color. Can you guys (and gals) recommend what I should sand it with and any prep techniques for painting with spray paint?

[Ristow]

quick-n-dirty...sand it off,leave a smooth finish. permatex aerosol rust neutralizer,than spray paint.

you could remove the hood and flat black the whole thing....

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

Originally Posted by gte901m

The top and hood of my chero has some surface rust. It’s not bad, but I want to take care of it before it becomes bad. I have never done any type of body work, so I need some advice. My chero is a play toy and not a show truck. I was thinking about sanding it somehow and spraying it with some rattle can paint that is close to the original color. Can you guys (and gals) recommend what I should sand it with and any prep techniques for painting with spray paint?

.GO TO THE AUTO PARTS AND ASK FOR A SCUFF PAD,TRY THAT! AND SEE IF THAT REMOVES YOUR RUST...FI IT WORKS JUST BLOW SOME PRIMER ON THEN SHOOT THE COLOR ON...NO REASON TO GO INTO ANY TECH STUFF,YOUR USING A RATTLE CAN.

[Ristow]

Originally Posted by OBX-AUTOMOTIVE

.GO TO THE AUTO PARTS AND ASK FOR A SCUFF PAD,TRY THAT! AND SEE IF THAT REMOVES YOUR RUST...FI IT WORKS JUST BLOW SOME PRIMER ON THEN SHOOT THE COLOR ON...NO REASON TO GO INTO ANY TECH STUFF,YOUR USING A RATTLE CAN.

OH SURE.....COLLEGE BOY....

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

Originally Posted by Ristow

quick-n-dirty...sand it off,leave a smooth finish. permatex aerosol rust neutralizer,than spray paint.

you could remove the hood and flat black the whole thing....

...THAT'S RIGHT!!! YOU KNOW ALLLLLLLLLLL ABOUT FLAT BLACK!!!....

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

HOLD/UP I THINK MY HOVEROUND GOT A FLAT!!

[Ristow]

Originally Posted by OBX-AUTOMOTIVE

...THAT'S RIGHT!!! YOU KNOW ALLLLLLLLLLL ABOUT FLAT BLACK!!!....

HAD HELP FROM AN OLD GUY IN N.C....

[gte901m]

Originally Posted by Ristow

quick-n-dirty...sand it off,leave a smooth finish. permatex aerosol rust neutralizer,than spray paint.

you could remove the hood and flat black the whole thing....

What grit sand paper should I use? The flat black thing did cross my mind....

This is what I am dealing with...

[moorehouse77]

I'm dealing with some rust issues right now also. Doing the whole truck though. I had a lot of surface rust that turned out to go pretty deep into the metal. Mostly just small pits but htey went in a little ways. I'm trying the rust neutralizer also but have used a 50 grit flap wheel on my angle grinder for some big stuff. It can take quite a bit of metal aff if your not careful but is way better that a hard grinder disc or just trying to sand with paper. Give it a shot if your rust goes too deep just blend it out by hand after the wheel the prime it. Good luck!

[Gambler68]

you could knock that down quick with some 220 on a palm sander up to the line where the center rises up, spray with the orange Rustoleum Heavy Rust Primer, give that a sand with a higher grit, and rattlecan it.

I like the Heavy Rust primer because it's thick and fills in a lot of scratches. Check out this thread if you want to see the wonders of rattlecanning on an FSJ

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...t=paint+scheme

[nograin]

The only problem is that rust can waste sandpaper - do the scotchbrite/scuffpad/steel wool thing first and then wipe it clean with some solvent or paint prep.

Then start with a medium paper, not coarser than 80. In fact, i would say start with at least 120 and if it is going too slow, then try the coarser. Wipe it clean, and if it looks to scratched up, go over it with a little finer grit. Prime it, spray it, done. If its auto paint then you could color sand and compound it out... If its enamal you're really done. Trust me, you can't sand it (don't ask how I know)

yea. flat has some advantages. I think my truck's rocker panels are semi-flat black (whatever was handy) and no one even notices my so called body work.

[Murphy]

I suggest sanding it with 80-100 grit sandpaper then using some kind of rust treatment or neutralizer, (sanding will not get all the rust out) then some high-build primer to fill the rust pitting. Sand/block it off to smooth it out and a coat of regular primer/sealer on top. Then paint it or whatever. If you want to do it right and you have an air compressor, get a spot blaster from HarborFreight for about $15-$20 and sandblast the rust off instead of sanding and rust treatment. High-build primer, sand, primer/sealer, paint.

[jeeping1974]

go to a local hardware store like ACE hardware (use to work for them for 7 years and know that they will either have it or can get it) or a parts store that has a good paint section and ask for a container of "Must for Rust". i used it on my 89 wrnager with some rust spots and the stuff actually worked. its a gel type product that will cemically change most of the rust (if its just surface rust and not too deep) back into metal. i've been telling people about this stuff for years and everyone thinks i'm joking. it does take a few days and application (a little longer than a weekend project) but i like it.

[gte901m]

Originally Posted by WaveHunter

If you want to do it right and you have an air compressor, get a spot blaster from HarborFreight for about $15-$20 and sandblast the rust off instead of sanding and rust treatment. High-build primer, sand, primer/sealer, paint.

I like the sand blaster idea. What media should I use, just sand, or is that too agressive?

[holley68]

I always bought play sand from Lowes that is already filtered.

[tgreese]

Originally Posted by holley68

I always bought play sand from Lowes that is already filtered.

I'd avoid regular sand ... silicosis is a danger. I'd suggest a non-silica media like Black Diamond or Black Beauty (blast slag AFAIK).

[janie]

That rust doesn't look bad at all. I'm always leary of using to heavy a grit to start off with. I'd try some #0000 steel wool first.

[HeavyHauler]

That doesn't look too bad. Clean it. Then I would use 120 grit sandpaper on the area. Clean area with indurtrial cleaner.Then spray primer. Then spray your car color if you can get it.

[mdill]

Hit it with the DA sander, maybe 220 grit to start, if deeply pitted, you could spot blast, it or if you want to play Dr. science use the electronic rust method to spot remove the oxide (usually you dip the part in the vat of washing soda, but a sponge soaked with washing soda between the sacrificial plate and the body panel should work fine also. ) Or there is always the scrubbing with phosphoric acid (metal prep) it will slowly eat the rust.

from what I see, that is nothing, a quick once over with the sander and I bet it is looking good.

Mike D.

[Murphy]

Originally Posted by gte901m

I like the sand blaster idea. What media should I use, just sand, or is that too agressive?

Yes regular blasting sand is too aggressive, especially for light surface rust. Use Sugar Sand. It's much finer and you can get it at a auto paint supply store. After you blast it and use the high-build primer, go with something like 220 grit to smooth it out. You may have to do that more than once to get it nice and smooth. It depends on how deep the rust was and how smooth you want to get it before your primer/sealer top coat.

Note: If I don't blast it, I only use the rough 80-100 grit to help get as much of the rust out as possible. Then I use a treatment, let dry, and use primer to fill in all the rust pits and deeper scratches from the rougher paper. Then use 220 after that. 320/400 to prep for paint.