Ummm....I think I am gonna have a problem with this king pin

[JeepsAndGuns]

Suggestions?

[hardbody1]

Bring it over to me in Huntsville and ill take it off your hands. NO seriously id get a wire wheel for a grinder and just clean it up so you can see what youve got under there.

Kyle

[JeepsAndGuns]

I already know what I have under there. It might be kinda tough to see in the pic. The top two nuts in the pic are for the most part fine, but the bottom two have pretty mutch rusted away to nothing. The nuts are tapered, so I cant just cut them flush. Only idea I have had is to come down about 1/4in or so below the top surface and start cutting in from the side of the arm with a cut off wheel untill I go all the way through the nuts. I am rebuilding the king pins, just need to get them apart. I am going full high steer so I dont care about the stock arm on there.

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Just take a cold chisel and split wants left of the nut. I don't think they taper into the steering arm to worry about it, remove the 2 top ones, split the bottom ones and take a sledge hammer and knock the arm into next week.

[elbastardo]

Hands in the air everybody this is a hijack , my 60 kingpin came with a 3" riser block, that I dont need, but i do need new studs (stock ones), where can we get those? And are the gr8, I know there 1/2" fine thd, but are they special?

[Crazy_Jeepman]

I think they are a special size in the shank, as I mocked up my front end with grade 8 and found that the bolts did not fit tight in the holes of the steering arms where as the OEM studs do. Most all the High Steer Vendors will sell them to you for 30.00 to 40.00 for 4 Outragous I know. I pulled a set out of another 60 in the Junk Yard, since I refused to pay 10.00 per stud.

[jaber]

When I did mine, I soaked all the parts in Muratic acid and then painted all pretty before assembly. Sorry to brag, but, thats what I love about AZ.......

[orangecherokee]

unlike me, i would soak the poo out of it with PB Blaster/Oil?WD-40/Anything that's a solvent for about a week. Reapply every day until it moves. Good luck, that looks nasty.

[SCscoutguy]

After looking at that picture I am really glad that the nuts on mine were not rusted. Did that axle come from the northeast or something? I would say that Kano Kroil and PB blaster would be your friends in this situation. You might try and heat it up with a torch a few times as well to break it free. Remember that whole stud will thread out so you could find another nut the same size and thread it down then weld it to the stud and take the whole stud out that way.

[Brad W.]

yeah, if you're not trying to resue the studs, try the cold chisel. if you can get it apart, great. if not, soak the snot out of it for a week with PB blaster or liquid wrench, and then clean it up with a wire wheel and see if you can get a new nut on the studs far enough to weld it on. then remove them that way.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Yep, for now all I want to do is get it apart. They are rusted to mutch to re use anyway. I was thinking about welding a nut on there, but I have no welder and no trailer to haul it to someone who does. I have been soaking everything in wd-40, gonna do that all week before starting on this. Mabey this weekend.

The truck it was from, I bought when I was visiting my dad in southwest VA. It been there its whole life (found papers in the glove box) The axle itself is not too rusty, it seems like just the drivers side is a little worse. The dust shield for the rotor is rusted to poo and laying on the rotor, and of corse you can see the top king pin bolts. The bottom ones look ok. The diff itself is almost like new (from oil/dirt coating) and the passenger side is ok, a little scale, but the bolts look fine. Funny that just the one side is a little more rusty than the other.

Oh, and tried to pull the tie rod off (thats bent) The cotter pins liked to never come out, the nuts looked real bad. Put the breaker bar on them and pulled. Not mutch resistance???, pull the socket off and notice the nut is still frozen on the stud. The tie rod ends shaft is just spinning, its not a tight fit in the taper anymore. Same on the other side. Looks like I am gonna get to use the grinder and cut off wheel after all.

[willam]

That Kano Kroil stuff is the bomb. Clean all the surface stuff you can and let it pentrate the rust for a couple of days/ follow up with heat if you have to. You won't find it in an autoparts store. Try Midway or Brownells ( mail order shooting supplies) or a good gun shop/gunsmith might stock it. Smells like all kinds of good brain damaging solvents, works great.

[shackwrrr]

Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns

The truck it was from, I bought when I was visiting my dad in southwest VA. It been there its whole life (found papers in the glove box) The axle itself is not too rusty, it seems like just the drivers side is a little worse. The dust shield for the rotor is rusted to poo and laying on the rotor, and of corse you can see the top king pin bolts. The bottom ones look ok. The diff itself is almost like new (from oil/dirt coating) and the passenger side is ok, a little scale, but the bolts look fine. Funny that just the one side is a little more rusty than the other.

.

isnt that the way a leaky front main seal flings oil?

[Brad W.]

if you cant weld the nut on, try to double nut it and turn the bottom one against the top. they tighten against each other and should stay put enough to get it out. try to get them as far down the stud as you can. soak the studs and heat it if you can right before you try to pull it out.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Just tried to chisel whats left of the nuts (witch is hardly anything) and no luck. Its just a solid chunk of rust and metal. Trying to put two nuts on there would be useless as there are not hardly any threads left to thread onto. Gonna wait and pull the hubs, spindles, and shafts before I fool anymore with the king pins. Hopefully this weekend.

[jeepsr4ever]

Torch those bastards off

[JeepsAndGuns]

Well, a little update. Had some free time today and started working on this. After the chisel not doing anything I got out my trusty 4.5in angle grinder. Put a new cut off wheel on it and went to work. I came down about 1/4in from the flat top surface and went to town. I just cut straight through the arm and through the studs. The two nuts on the front that wernt rusted to poo went a little better. One nut came off (but not easly) the other one moved a hair and then just brought the whole stud with it. So now I only have to remove 3 of them. But atleast now I can take it to work and have one of the welders weld nuts onto them.

But in other news, the wheel bearings were only held on with ONE spindle nut! Just one!, It had the large washer, then a lock ring made for the hex shaped spindle nuts, then the round 6 slot spindle nut. Looks like I am gonna be getting new ones. I just wonder if the other side is the same way. But also when I removed the spindle bolts (hammer) I pretty mutch turned them to poo. (they were in there super tight) SO, I am hopeing you can get replacements?

One side down one to go.....

[elbastardo]

On the studs, I just picked up a 3' stick of gr8 fine thd allthread, The nuts turn onto it pretty easily, but there kinda goofy tapered special nuts (or it seems), like a lugnut. But i havent had a chance to put my kink pin back togather yet, so ill see tomorow if it all works.

[JeepsAndGuns]

I will get new studs from who ever I get my steering arms from. Havent decided yet.

But I need to know where to get new spindle bolts. The 5 bolts that hold the spindle to the knuckle are pretty mutch FUBAR and I need new ones.

[Merc69]

Dealer item on the spindle bolts