Machine shop question

[Jambo1]

Guys, Ive never taken anything to a machine shop. Im getting ready to rebuild my 360 and I want to make sure I have a clue before I go in there and have them do work.

When I talked to the machine shop guy, he said for me to bring in the stuff and he would see what I had and get a master rebuild kit for me. He said I could upgrade cam etc if I wanted and He will install valve guides for me and remove the cam bearings. I want a new cam not a reground one. Is that a good choice?

I want to do as much of the work as possible, I have to say, the cam and crankshaft seem intimidating.

What all should I have him do? I am mechanically inclinde(At least Id like to think so) but have never rebuilt a motor.

Time wise, he said it would take about a week to a week and a half and that he would meet me down there on the weekend so I could drop it off or early before work on weekdays. Seems like a good guy.

Let him pick my master rebuild kit or should I pick it my self and bring it in? How's that part of it all work?

Thanks for the help, sorry it's so remedial, but I gotta start somewhere!!!

[FSJeeper]

He will mike out your block and check wear. Then he will be able to tell you what size pistons you need, what size main bearings you need, etc., etc.
Generally machine shops mark up the price on rebuild kits but sometimes they are the cheapest. I would get a quote and do your own shopping before you decide.

Quality brand new cam is the only way to go. I would not go over a 260-262 cam and would look inot a split duration one. The Crane 262/272 would be the maximum I would recommend.

At the very minimum, let him do your head work and make sure you check all of the spring tensions. Let him clean and magnaflux the block, bore, hone, resize the rods, grind the crank, cam bearings, and align bore if needed.

You should be able to do the rest. Don't forget to bottom tap out all the holes, and wash and rewash the block until it is 100% totally clean before you start assembly.

You will need a quality torque wrench and piston ring compressor in you tool kit.

Good luck!

[Jambo1]

FSJeeper, o.k. this is the info I need . Thank you.

Couple questions:
I was under the impression that new rods came in a kit. Do you me for him to tell me what size rods to get?

I dont know what you mean by this... Don't forget to bottom tap out all the holes

Also, what's the best wash to use on the block. I do want this thing to look clean. I was contemplating painting it and have read I need a certain type of primer that is temp rated etc.

Any suggestions

Thanks again!

[JEEPGUZZZI]

I am very mechanically inclined. Here is what I had the rebuilder do. He purchased the rebuild kit. I provided the cam. I had him do all the things that FSJeeper said plus put the heads on and install the pistons and crank. This way, you can have the oil pan on and not have to worry about messing anything up on the way home. Once I get home, I reinstalled the engine and installed the intake manifold, water pump, distributor, and all the brackets and motor mounts.

This way, the core of the engine was completed by the rebuilder and he was able to give me a warrenty. I would also try to get a look at the shop beforehand. You need to see if he has experience with AMC engines, also!! My rebuilder was recommended to me by a long time AMC guy who knew his work.

[FSJeeper]

Most master rebuild kits do not come with new rods as those are usually done at the machine shop but there are some good places that sell you everything you need to build the short block. This includes the crank, re-sized rods, pistons, etc, etc. Here is one place I used years ago with very, very good results:
http://speedomotive.com/newpage5.htm
Price for the AMC 360 with cast pistons is $850.

A lot of people skip re-sizing their rods or at least checking them. Every engine gas engine I have rebuilt needed the rods resized and it would be stupid to build an engine with out of spec rods. A lot of the cheap rebuilders skip this step to save money. Don't fall into that trap.

When you get your block back from the rebuilder there will be crap and debris in your oil and water passages and in all of the bolt holes. You have to use stiff metal brushes on the passages (rifle brushes work great)to get the stuff out. Metal shavings and other crap in your oil lines will destroy your new engine before it is even broken in if you do not clean them out. To clean out your thread holes, which have to be perfect to get accurate torque readings
or you will not be in spec, you use special bottoming taps or you can buy cheap thread cleaners from places like Summit. This step is critical, you can not skip it. Having compressed air to blow things out helps a lot.

I use solvent (varsol) as my first step and degrease the heck out of it. Then I use a power washer with a detergent soap, then I hand clean it with Marine Clean from POR or any other heavy metal cleaner. It takes a long time to get it perfect, but when it is clean you should be able to wipe a white cloth anywhere on the block and have it come off clean. Be sure you lightly coat your cylinder and lifter bores with light grease to keep them from rusting. They will start rusting immediatley if you do not do this. Wrap it in a platic bag and when you start rebuilding, wipe the whole block down with acetone, clean out the cylinder and lifter bores, and lightly oil them to keep them from rusting.

You can get high temp engine paint anywhere, but POR makes the best in my opinion.

[Jambo1]

I found this guys website

They started up in 1988. I checked the BBB and he has no record.

Whitman Engines LLC

The buddy that referred him to me works at a foreign auto place and has had this guy do some work for him. Im not sure if he's a AMC guy or not. I'll give him a call and check it out.

Check it out any gut feelings here?

Thanks

[mtn goat]

I agree with fsjeeper...
Heres what I had done...I supplied the rebuild kit, that included new cam, all new bearings of the correct size, gaskets, pistons, oil pump and other various things. The shop cleaned, checked and bored the block. resized all the old rods, pressed the pistons on the rods, checked the head (And found a fricken crack!!) so I got a new head but they can clean check and grind the valve seats, install new guids, and check all the parts. also they will fix up that old crank and make sure its polished and the correct specs...or tell you what size bearing to order.
Then I cleaned like a mad dog with simple grean and a power sprayer, brushes and a test tube cleaner. make sure to oil up the shiney parts so they wont rust. then put it all together and finished with shiney new engine paint.

[joe]

Jambo, I haven't rebuilt an AMC v8 so I can't add anything here(except new freeze plugs) but the crankshaft/thrust bearing surface seems to be of major concern on AMC motors. Check out the recent thread in the tech formum "crankshaft play". If the shop isn't used to AMC motors it's a point worth mentioning for them to check.

[Jambo1]

Joe, ya I have been reading up on the "join the band Crankshaft Club" thread!! Thats what's got me a bit intimidated. I printed all that out. I'll mention it to him. I get the feeling he has'nt done much AMC stuff. I might keep looking. Im not in the "Motorhead" loop really, so it's hard to know all the machine shops reputaions around here. I'll just take my time and learn as I go. To all, The info is much appreciated.

Keep it coming, Im trying to eat this stuff up.

[joe]

Originally posted by Jambo1:
Im not in the "Motorhead" loop really, so it's hard to know all the machine shops reputaions around here.

Since they built the by-pass around Snohomish I don't go through town anymore and not sure what's there anymore except new house but you're in a fairly "automotive/gearhead" area. Don't hesitate to look outside to say Everett or Monroe/Sultan etc. There are quite a few hot rodders/4 wheelers along the I-5 corridor and inland. Nobody deals more with machine shops than hot rodders. See if you can get hooked up with some of them, visit their pubs, watch the Seattle paper about meets etc. You might call some of the local/Seattle 4x4 and car clubs. They'd have a good handle on good machine shops too.