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  #1  
Old 02-09-2005, 11:42 AM
SJ SJ is offline
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I think this might be the source of my problems, well at least the clanking during accelerating, vibrations at high speed, etc...

How do I fix this? This is on the passenger side, front spring, rear mount.

[ February 09, 2005, 06:58 PM: Message edited by: SJ ]
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then: 79 Cherokee N/T, 360, T-18/D20, 4.09 gears, 33\" MTRs, Skyjacker 4\" lift, Electrac rear locker, edelbrock performer manifold and Q-jet, MSD 6A ignition with TFI upgrade

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Old 02-09-2005, 11:44 AM
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i cant see a pic if you posted it. ive broken the exact one off except mine was completely shattered. i welded a new one back on
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2005, 12:10 PM
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I have broken quite a few of them. Knock the rivets out and put bolts in.
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Old 02-09-2005, 12:17 PM
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ok i see now, yea just put bolts in or weld it on. those lift springs put stress on the spring mounts
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  #5  
Old 02-09-2005, 12:25 PM
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Yup done it twice! (different springs) I took off the springs, cleaned up the joints with a grinder, lowered the bracket onto a jack stand so it compressed tight against the frame and welded it down. Did your front shackle fold forward and lock in anytime before this happened?

[ February 09, 2005, 07:52 PM: Message edited by: gwinn ]
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Old 02-09-2005, 12:46 PM
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Looks like it was repaired once before.
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Old 02-09-2005, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by viscacha:
Looks like it was repaired once before.
Yea, looks like it was welded once before and the weld broke.
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  #8  
Old 02-09-2005, 01:29 PM
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Gwinn, How did you know!?!? That just happened a few weeks ago... I was quail hunting in bulldog canyon and my shackle got stuck folded in the forward position during some articulation. I didn't realize anything broke though... What happened?

This must also mean my clanking and vibration is caused by something else...that sucks!
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then: 79 Cherokee N/T, 360, T-18/D20, 4.09 gears, 33\" MTRs, Skyjacker 4\" lift, Electrac rear locker, edelbrock performer manifold and Q-jet, MSD 6A ignition with TFI upgrade

now: 1966 Gladiator, 327, TH400/D20
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  #9  
Old 02-09-2005, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by JeepsAndGuns:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by viscacha:
Looks like it was repaired once before.
Yea, looks like it was welded once before and the weld broke.</font>[/quote]How can you tell?
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then: 79 Cherokee N/T, 360, T-18/D20, 4.09 gears, 33\" MTRs, Skyjacker 4\" lift, Electrac rear locker, edelbrock performer manifold and Q-jet, MSD 6A ignition with TFI upgrade

now: 1966 Gladiator, 327, TH400/D20
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  #10  
Old 02-10-2005, 09:58 AM
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The top pic. That looks like a broken weld.
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Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on re-centered H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.0L/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, WJ knuckles and brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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  #11  
Old 02-10-2005, 12:04 PM
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I guess I need to inspect the otherside better but I thought they were welded on the inner side from the factory. But that aside, some have suggested using bolts in place of the the rivets. How is this done, the frame is closed at that spot. Also, would a weld be a better and longer lasting fix?
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then: 79 Cherokee N/T, 360, T-18/D20, 4.09 gears, 33\" MTRs, Skyjacker 4\" lift, Electrac rear locker, edelbrock performer manifold and Q-jet, MSD 6A ignition with TFI upgrade

now: 1966 Gladiator, 327, TH400/D20
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2005, 12:12 PM
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welder' up!!!
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2005, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SJ:
Gwinn, How did you know!?!? ....
I've done it twice and seen it happen to a few others. The shackle folding forward preceded every occurence. After repairing the mounting bracket either re-arch your front springs or switch to the longer Chevy shackle before taking your rig out.

[ February 10, 2005, 10:38 PM: Message edited by: gwinn ]
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  #14  
Old 02-10-2005, 03:48 PM
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yep.. this is common to alot of folks here.. I found mine cracked and then RBY's was really bad...

mine was just a reweld under full weight on the stand...

RBY's was a little harder... had to remove it and patch the brittle frame under it, then orient it back into position and fully weld her up...
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  #15  
Old 02-11-2005, 01:36 AM
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My pass side hanger broke clean across the full inside bend. I welded it back together across the bend but not the frame since I knew I would be replacing it. When I did replace it I noticed the replacement hanger was not parallel to the front hanger/shackle by 3 degrees. That’s why I think the original broke clean across the full inside bend of the hanger. Eyeballing the hanger to the axis of the rear axle housing confirmed that the hanger needed to be shimmed in order to hang straight and parallel or else more load would be applied to one side of the hanger. Removing the hanger was very easy by torching the broken side off where I welded in order to get access to the rivets with a grinder.

Hanger was broken clear across the inside bend.


When I removed the springs from the driver’s side hanger I found that it also was not parallel and that’s when I realized that my frame had been slightly over-formed during manufacturing resulting in anything mounted from the side or bottom would not be parallel with the rest of the truck. All these years the load was not distributed evenly across the hangers. I had to hammer the bolts and springs out of the hangers because they were in such a bind. I C-clamped the replacement hangers in place and attempted to run a ˝” steel rod through all four 9/16” spring holes, but the alignment was so far off the steel rod missed by 2” vertically from one side to the other. I also noticed that because the hangers were angled inward to each other the center distance was 31 ˝”, not 32”. After shimming both replacement hangers with steel shims making them parallel to the axis of the rear axle housing I ran the ˝” rod through all four holes with ease. Then eyeballing the rod clear across the frame to the rear axle housing I found that it was nice and parallel. The center distance was back to 32”, too. When I installed the springs back on the hangers and shackles I found the springs slipped into the hangers and shackles very easily and I could install all the bolts with two fingers. I am sure this will allow the spring bushings to flex easier since they’re not bound up to begin with.

Original hanger out of parallel.
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  #16  
Old 02-11-2005, 04:53 AM
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i pretty much ****ed up mine. i had to buy a new one.

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  #17  
Old 02-11-2005, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by gwinn:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by SJ:
Gwinn, How did you know!?!? ....
I've done it twice and seen it happen to a few others. The shackle folding forward preceded every occurence. After repairing the mounting bracket either re-arch your front springs or switch to the longer Chevy shackle before taking your rig out.</font>[/quote]Why?

What would you all think about drilling through the top of the frame and using long bolts to fasten the mount to the frame? It seems to me that you would have to open up the frame if you used normal length bolts.

I have no welding skills, not to mention no welder...

I am really thinking I will have to take it to a shop to get it fixed.
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then: 79 Cherokee N/T, 360, T-18/D20, 4.09 gears, 33\" MTRs, Skyjacker 4\" lift, Electrac rear locker, edelbrock performer manifold and Q-jet, MSD 6A ignition with TFI upgrade

now: 1966 Gladiator, 327, TH400/D20
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  #18  
Old 02-11-2005, 09:18 AM
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ripped both mine out, found out what was making most/all the sqeaking nioses...


made a drawing, took to machine shop and had them make these

STILL need to have them welded on but bolted up still holds ok for now
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  #19  
Old 02-11-2005, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by flatbackdragon:
ripped both mine out, found out what was making most/all the sqeaking nioses...


made a drawing, took to machine shop and had them make these

STILL need to have them welded on but bolted up still holds ok for now
Those look really nice, but i must say, they aren't shackles, they are spring mounts
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Old 02-11-2005, 11:16 AM
SJ SJ is offline
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Phil, those look great! You wouldn't still happen to have those drawings around, would ya??
Do they hold the springs in the exact same position as before?
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then: 79 Cherokee N/T, 360, T-18/D20, 4.09 gears, 33\" MTRs, Skyjacker 4\" lift, Electrac rear locker, edelbrock performer manifold and Q-jet, MSD 6A ignition with TFI upgrade

now: 1966 Gladiator, 327, TH400/D20
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