Hey RockJeep44

[greasyjeep]

Andrew

Lot's of discussion on rear shackels and Revolvers lately. Did a search for past threads and I know you did this, saw the thread from when you first joined the board.

Could you get a picture of the the rear revolver and how you mounted it? With a quick how you did it? In the original thread, I saw you sliced out a chunk and then re-supported it. A picture would go a long way in helping me (and I think others) what you did.

Thanks

Josh

[Stuka]

You need a shackle inversion kit to put revolvers in back. Todd's kit would work well for this.

[dnixon]

This is todd's kit. Just replace the rear shackle with a revolver. The other day when I was visiting some serious west coast rockcrawlers.. they all cringed when I said I had revolvers... But they said "at least you don't have them in the back"... I believe its because the tend to unload on incline and declines.. However the engine and front of the car is pretty heavy and keeps the front compressed somewhat but the rear doesn't have that weight and while descending you have the possibility of it unloading and you fliping over...

But this is a problem with guys that have lighter vehicles then us and although we still have these problems they are masked by the size and weight of our rigs. I haven't really tested my front to see how well it will work but I think I will like it. I just don't think I am going to be putting it on the back. Just my ¢2.

[FYR WOOD]

There is a problem using a revolver shackle in the back and RB's kit, at least from what I've experienced. The stock springs are relatively flat and if you install the revolver in the intended fashion, folded in, then the shackle hits the spring. I imagine that with a more arched spring, this problem would no longer exist. I have a set, and swore to myself that I wasn't going to join the revolver party, but I'm thinking now that I might install them backward, where the fold of the shackle is actually pointed towards the rear of the truck. If I do it, I will let you all know how well it works.

Scott

[River Beast]

IF you adjust my kit to accomodate the Revolvers... you will not have this problem.... Sring rates vary... that is why I left room for adjustment when installing the rear inversion bracket...

I totally understand what you are saying though....

Do you have a pic of what you are describing? If I can see it... I may be able to modify the desing a bit to take care of it....

[River Beast]

FSJeeper is running Revolvers as well with my kit unless he changed his mind.... I wonder if he did the install WITH Revolvers..... hmmmmmm ,,, he hasn't reported any problems.....

[greasyjeep]

RB

Your kit creates like 7" of lift though, right?

I was just looking to level out the Rusty 6"/4" spring difference without using the blocks (I know you hate them) and picking up some articulation that may have been lost with the lift springs.

I figured a Shale flip may get me there and then Reveovers front and rear may help me pick up some lost articulation.

I thought Andrew figured out a way to flip the rear shakles and not gain as much lift.

Thanks
Josh

[FYR WOOD]

RB,
I think its actually more of a problem in the fact that we have to use XJ revolvers on our rigs, and the way the XJ revolvers are designed is with a slight boomerang shape to them in order to clear the shackle hanger on an XJ. This puts more of the shackle closer to the spring( the spring actually rests on the underside of the revolver, if that makes sense). I dont have a pic because I couldnt end up using the revolvers. I might be able to hold a revolver up in the position it would sit to maybe illustrate my point. Basically, in order to make the revolver work, it would have to be in an almost vertical orientation, and we all know that thats not exactly optimal. I'm not trashing on the kit at all, I love mine and have wheeled the snot out of it and have had great results, but I just couldnt figure out a way to run revolvers unless I turned them backwards, and even then I worry that it may perform strangely on the road.

Scott

[River Beast]

Originally posted by greasyjeep:
RB

Your kit creates like 7" of lift though, right?

I was just looking to level out the Rusty 6"/4" spring difference without using the blocks (I know you hate them) and picking up some articulation that may have been lost with the lift springs.

I figured a Shale flip may get me there and then Reveovers front and rear may help me pick up some lost articulation.

I thought Andrew figured out a way to flip the rear shakles and not gain as much lift.

Thanks
Josh

You can create your own shackle flip by grinding off the entire stock mount and inverting it at the right position for what you want.... but I designed my kit for complimenting the SOA... so 7" is too much for your needs...

A 1-2" block is not that bad compared to a 4" block... I have seen 4" blocks spit out on trails... not a pretty sight....

Some have done what I have described avbove to gain 2-3 of lift with the inverted shackle if my memory serves me correctly... but I can';t give you any names....

[River Beast]

Originally posted by FYR WOOD:
RB,
I think its actually more of a problem in the fact that we have to use XJ revolvers on our rigs, and the way the XJ revolvers are designed is with a slight boomerang shape to them in order to clear the shackle hanger on an XJ. This puts more of the shackle closer to the spring( the spring actually rests on the underside of the revolver, if that makes sense). I dont have a pic because I couldnt end up using the revolvers. I might be able to hold a revolver up in the position it would sit to maybe illustrate my point. Basically, in order to make the revolver work, it would have to be in an almost vertical orientation, and we all know that thats not exactly optimal. I'm not trashing on the kit at all, I love mine and have wheeled the snot out of it and have had great results, but I just couldnt figure out a way to run revolvers unless I turned them backwards, and even then I worry that it may perform strangely on the road.

Scott

I hear ya... if you installed my kit with OEM shackles and switch to revolvers.... this is where the problem starts...hmmmm... so if you install my kit with a revolvers on hand at the time of install, you can adjust the rear inverted mount so the Revolver will clear the spring... this is only an assumption on my part, but seems to be the solution....

Even it the Revolver is vertically.... temp installed and and checked for proper operation, you can adjust the rear bracket as much as is needed to clear the shackle from the spring is what I am thinking.....

[dnixon]

A guy named bchesley that used to be on here a while ago was going to make me some of his prototype shackle inversion kits. It was only going to gain around 3 inch just so you wouldn't have to use blocks in the rear for the Rusty's 6" lift. If you do a search for his name you will probably find his email address or maybe a telephone number and you could see what you could get.

[greasyjeep]

[/qb][/quote]Some have done what I have described avbove to gain 2-3 of lift with the inverted shackle if my memory serves me correctly... but I can';t give you any names....[/QB][/quote]
I though in one of Andrew's first posts on the forum he discussed doing this.

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb....=006170#000001

But the link no longer works so I was hoping he could take a few more pics or point me to the updated link.

Thanks again for all the info.

[greasyjeep]

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb....=005979#000006

Here is the initial discussion

[rockjeep44]

Greasy, yea it's possible to flip the rear shackle like I did, run revolvers (or not) and only gain a couple inches of lift. And no, you don't need a shackle inversion kit (stuka). I'll see if I have any pics and if I don't I'll take some closeups for you while I'm at my shop tonight. It's really not hard to do. As far as revolvers in the rear, I really like mine. But, I highly recommend a traction bar. Without a traction bar they will cause your rearend to hop around like a bronco when you're climbing and on the gas really hard. But, since I've been running my traction bar I love my rear revolvers. I know there are guys that would flame me for saying that but hey, the proof is in the pudding and my setup works. My truck is built for hardcore, extreme, rollover prone trails and thats what I've put my revolvers though. Also, the weight thing that slowag was talking about really isn't an issue because my rearend is EXTREMELY light and I still don't have any unloading probs but like I said, a good traction bar is key. You can get away without using one, I did for about a year but you have to watch that axlewrap on climbs. The only problem I've had out of my revolvers is that I snapped one of my rear ones in two at Tellico, didn't even know it. Somehow it held together to get me home and I've since welded it back together better than new. But, I have to say they are VERY beefy and mine have just been through hell so one finally had to give I guess. I'll get any helpful pics up ASAP.
-Andrew

[ May 16, 2003, 02:08 PM: Message edited by: rockjeep44 ]

[rockjeep44]

Front's working


Rears working


These were taken with the traction bar hooked up so you can see it doesn't hurt flex. I don't have any pics of the shackle setup but I'll snap some tonight as well as some of the traction bar for anyone that wants to copy the design. I copied the deisgn from Skyjacker and it works so copy away [img]smile.gif[/img] I bent several before I went with the skyjacker design so hopefully I can save you guys the trail and error portion.

[greasyjeep]

Cool

Thanks

[rockjeep44]

Here ya go
http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb....;f=16;t=000086