Axle cost questions......

robselina · #1 09-11-2003, 02:34 PM

Kinda rambling here so I've bolded my questions....

Okay, local guy has not come through with a ford D60 or D70 for me. Plenty of 14 bolt rears, but not a single good front end....

So, at this point I'm thinking I'll bit the bullet and buy on in Albuquerque, at one of the truck wreckers up there.

How much should I be spending on a good D60 or D70 with 4.10s? Last time his asking price (negotiable) was $1200 for the D60 and $1700 for the D70. I'm a cheapskate, I've bought all my axles from my local guy for less than $100 each so far. This is a big jump for me. What should I realistically be willing to spend here? Also, if I got matching rear ends out of the same ford, what should the package cost?

Also, what about an 8 lug D44 front w/ 4.10s? This would give me a D44 for the CJ front to convert to 5 lug with my D30 outers (w/ warn shafts) and give me 8 lug outers for the waggy to match the GM14 bolt rear. This seems like a much more economical deal, but again, how much do you think?

Thanks guys,
Rob

Stuka · #2 09-11-2003, 02:52 PM

A front dana70 will be closed knuckle unless you find a SUPER rare open knuckle version. So i would go for a D60. Around here a front D60 goes for around 750-1500 depending on what it has and what shape its in.

80258WT · #3 09-11-2003, 02:57 PM

i'd stay away from a 70, sure they already have 35 spline outers but most of them are closed knuckle and parts are pretty much non existant.

Around here a front hp60 goes for 1200 up depending on condition.

And gm or dodge front 60's go for 800 up depending on condition.

Make sure it's a SRW 60 (around 69" wms) dually or drw 60's have like 74".
But you can get a dually and machine the hubs to srw width but it's not worth it unless you get a killer deal on a drw 60.

robselina · #4 09-11-2003, 04:21 PM

Actually, the 70 he had was the open knuckle, super rare deal.
Thanks for the info on the SRW vs Dually.

*Bob Barry* · #5 09-11-2003, 04:32 PM

Also beware of front D61's as used in some Dodges with the 3.07 ratio.

Glenn_tx · #6 09-11-2003, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bob Barry:
Also beware of front D61's as used in some Dodges with the 3.07 ratio.

Do the 60 fronts have "60" on the housing like the 60 rears?

I'm going to check one out tomorrow.

[ September 11, 2003, 10:42 PM: Message edited by: GlennTX ]

Glenn_tx · #7 09-11-2003, 06:38 PM

Uh, nevermind. I went and looked at my Ford.

rockjeep44 · #8 09-11-2003, 10:43 PM

Front 70 open knuckle or not = major pig. There is absolutely no reason to run one. It's heavier, bigger (less ground clearance), and the increase in strength is not worth it. Front 60s already have inner 35 spline shafts, so throw in some 35 spline outers and you're ready to go. So, don't even consider the 70 especially at that price. $1200 for the front 60 is about par for the course if it's in good shape. From what I hear you can get a front 60 at just about anytime for that price though so I'd shop around a little before I bought it or try and talk him down to $1000. let us know what condition it's in and we can give you more info.
-Andrew

**River Beast** · #9 09-11-2003, 11:45 PM

I got my eye on an old 1 ton Ford P/U right now.... waiting for the guy to come back from Iraq to see if he wants to sell....

Front is a HPD60 open knuckle kingpin (DSD).. and the rear... well... not sure, but it looks like a 60 or a little biger.... dunno. I was scoping the HPD60 so didn't care to look at the rear..

robselina · #10 09-12-2003, 01:19 AM

Thanks for the info guys. I don't think I could pay more than $1000 for one, no matter how nice of an HP unit it is. Just not in my nature

Also,what year did ford go to the metric bolt pattern? Want to make sure I avoid that....

robselina · #11 09-12-2003, 01:30 AM

Answered my own question: model year 2000 and up was metric. I'm not oposed to it assuming I can get the matching rear for cheap. Would rather have the 14bolt rear end though....

rockjeep44 · #12 09-12-2003, 04:54 AM

don't go metric, you'll regret it. even if you do find a matching rearend. beware of dana 50s as well. they look a lot like dana 60s and came in the new trucks. I'd stick to early 90s models and lower.
-Andrew

KYJ10 · #13 09-12-2003, 01:25 PM

I really think they started in late 97. If you find a cuccv 14ff, alot of them come with 456 and a detroit. Can be bought fairly cheap. Sell the 4:10 set and regear the front. I sold my used set of 4:10 for $79 on ebay. Just a thought. Dennis

Heimeken · #14 09-12-2003, 04:18 PM

Hey rob, I saw one in a yard a few weeks back while looking for a rear axle for the J10. I'll try to get back there next week and ask the guy what he wants.

robselina · #15 09-13-2003, 04:56 AM

Please do Jaime, if it's a good deal its well worth the trip to El Paso!

P.S. Have you heard about the Big Bend Bash Oct 24-26? I'll be out there, probably in the waggy considering the situation with the CJ right now. You should think about coming dude. Here's the link:
http://www.sportsintherough.com/bigb.../bbbrules.html

JeepsAndGuns · #16 09-13-2003, 11:09 AM

Hey everyone, I gettin ready to look for a 60 frontend from a ford too, what years do I need to look for? Like from what year to what year. Will the latermodel ones have the same width on the spring perches? I was told to look for late 70's models. Will any newer models work too? thanks

Stuka · #17 09-13-2003, 11:20 AM

The ford with metric paterns arent anything bad. The D50 was used in gasoline powered F250's. F350's and diesels got the D60. The rear will be a sterling 10.2", which is just as strong if not stronger then a 14FF.

robselina · #18 09-13-2003, 01:03 PM

Jeeps and Guns - Check out www.pirate4x4.com under the tech section, they have the Dana60 bible, it lists all the years and models you can get them. Here's the short list for you:

Ford

1978-79 F-350 and some F-250 (Snofighter and High GVW packages)
1986-88 F-350 with dual rear wheels (DRW)

1988-91.5 F-350 with single rear wheels (SRW)

1992-95 F-350 (all) (balljoint)

1996.5-98 F-350 (all) (balljoint)

2000 F350/F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern F350 / 8x220mm F450/F550, unit bearing hub)

2000.5 F350/F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern F350 / 8x220mm F450/F550, unit bearing hub)

2001 F350 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)

2001-02 F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x220mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)

2002 F250/F350 SRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)

2002 F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x220mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)

All these Ford versions were drivers side differential, reverse-cut (high pinion) gears, and kingpin knuckles to 1991.5 and balljoints thereafter. Most Ford D60s are internal style hubs, but external type lockout versions do exist. 2000 and later Ford D60s have balljoints, a metric wheel lug pattern of 8x170mm up to F350 and 8x220mm for F450/F550, different brakes and spindles, sealed "unit-bearing hubs", hub-centric wheels, different length axleshafts from the earlier D60s, and larger Superduty specific tie rod ends. From 2000 on, the Ford D60 front axle is also known as the Model 60F2000+ or the 248M. 248 just happens to be the equivalent in millimeters of 9.75" - the diameter of the D60s ring gear.

JeepsAndGuns · #19 09-14-2003, 03:40 AM

wow, thanks rselina!

Shake N Bake · #20 09-14-2003, 04:49 AM

No offense, but if you're gonna buy diffs - rather than just buying the diffs (which you have already seen are bloody expensive) go look for a beater 1ton chev/ford. You can usually find them for cheap (under a grand) - Just shop for diffs - with the truck attatched. So much cheaper than buying the diffs seperate.

Andy

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