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10-02-2003, 02:23 PM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: Jul 18, 2003
Location: Cullman, AL
Posts: 4,477
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I am planning on lifting my 79 cherokee here soon. I am going to be swaping in 3/4 ton axles spring over in front and shackle flip rear(from River Beast) and would like to add some lift springs along with it (I dont like body lifts) and was wondering if 4in lift springs were too mutch? I'm thinking about getting the kit from BJ's and puting it on and running them for a while to get them broke in untill I get my axles ready. Does anyone have 4in lift springs with a spring over? What size tries do you run. Any major problems? I'm gonna run the high clearance steering, so that shouldnt be a problem. Thanks, Jared
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79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on re-centered H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.0L/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, WJ knuckles and brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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10-02-2003, 02:35 PM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Nov 24, 2002
Location: beerless Utah
Posts: 1,222
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Rockwagon's the only person I can think of off the top of my head that had an SOA and 4" springs. He ran 42s, and jumping out of his truck meant you had a long way down. Is it too much? That depends on what you want to do with it. His Jeep did great around Tellico, but I wouldn't put it in the canyon carver category.
WIll
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'78 Cherokee NT in GA
'79 J10 Golden Eagle in UT
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10-02-2003, 02:39 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Oct 15, 2001
Location: Collinwood, TN 38450
Posts: 446
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You can come take a look at mine. It's a SOA with 3" springs. I plan to take a leaf out to try and soften it up a bit. With 36's it's about 50" high at the hood.
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73 J-4000,360,TH400/D20,springover,Q78 buckshots
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10-02-2003, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Jan 21, 2001
Location: Twain Harte, California
Posts: 13,765
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River beast ran a SOA, 4" springs, and a 3" body. He was *WAY* up there. But he has since taken the 4" springs out.
For around here where I am thats WAY to high. I wouldent want anything much higher then my cherokee is.
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Full Size Jeep Network
1981 J10 AMC 258 with TFI and Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with a BJ's Aluminum Radiator, T176, NP208, D44/M23 with 4.56 gears and Detroit Locker, 6" lift, 33x12.50 TSL's, BJ's Offroad Rear Bumper.
1975 Cherokee *Sold*
1989 XJ Limited *Sold*
2005 KJ Limited 3.7, 42RLE, NP242
2008 JK 3.8, 6sp, NP241, 2.5", 33's, 4.56's
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10-02-2003, 03:37 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 12, 2000
Location: dayton,oh,45431
Posts: 6,633
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me too. my trails round here have alot of spots that put you pretty off camber,so i wanted to keep the CG as low as possible.
with 4" speings and a soa,youll need high angle CV driveshafts front and rear. steering is also an issue,and youll need some real long shocks and brakelines,or relocate the monuts. [img]smile.gif[/img]
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10-02-2003, 04:49 PM
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Super Moderator Ph.D. in FSJ
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Join Date: Apr 18, 2000
Location: Lakewood, Calif
Posts: 11,643
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I did have the 4" Skyjacker lift with the SOA and 3" bodylift and ran 38's.... I have since lowered her down 2" in suspension and 1" in tires....
When the 36" TSL's wear out... I'm going back up to 38's again... 
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10-02-2003, 06:38 PM
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Jeep Doctor
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Join Date: Apr 09, 2000
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 8,177
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It really depends on what size tire you want to run, and whether you want to cut into the body or not.
A plain SOA+shackle-inversion will net you about 8" alone, before any tire-height is added in.
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10-02-2003, 07:17 PM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: Oct 05, 2002
Location: Fontucky, CA
Posts: 3,251
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i run 4" lift and SOA. i haven’t taken it out yet, still in the process of finalizing the setup. and yes you’ll need a high angle front d-shaft, the rear can just be lengthened. i also have revolvers so long shocks and real long brake lines is mandatory.
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10-02-2003, 09:12 PM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Jun 27, 2001
Location: canby,oregon,usa
Posts: 1,392
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I'm SOA and 4" springs. I have a 203 w/727 using a dodge tailshaft and adapter. This brings the front output farther back and lower. My front driveshaft is a single u-joint at each end with the yokes clearanced. As I have a part time kit I dont have to deal with any freeway vibrations so it works just fine for me. I also am making a doubler kit using the 203 gearbox. Mine is gonna be able to use most np cases with the 6 hole pattern and female spline input ie-203,205,208,229,241 etc.The plan is figured out and I have a line on a couple of places to cut and re-spline the 203 shaft. After I do that I'll probably copy the bad boy driveshaft using my spicer and rockwell/meritor master catalogs. Dennis
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“Don't do anything by half. If you love someone, love them with all your soul. When you go to work, work your *** off. When you hate someone, hate them until it hurts.” Henry Rollins
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10-02-2003, 11:38 PM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: May 05, 2002
Location: Taylorsville, KY. 40071
Posts: 2,526
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I was running stock springs with a SOA, 2" body lift and 38's fit with plenty of room. I now have the 2.5 front springs and SOA, taking the body lift out, cause it's just too high. I have no need for the huge amounts of clearnace I have between tires and fenders. Plus I want to keep it as low as possible. Dennis
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Starting to miss the addiction!
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10-03-2003, 09:30 AM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Jul 17, 2001
Location: Greensboro, NC 27406
Posts: 1,062
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Yah that is what I have been running. I am gettin ready to lower it. When she comes out in the spring she should be 4.5" lower in the rear and 3.5" lower in the front. Wheelbase lengthened about 7", Topless, caged, and doublered (203 - 205). I guess that will be about it. It was a little unstable at the hieght. But I kept it on all for most of the time.
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<a href=\"http://www.muddevils4x4.com/forum/\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.muddevils4x4.com/forum/</a>
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10-03-2003, 02:59 PM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: Jul 18, 2003
Location: Cullman, AL
Posts: 4,477
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Well I'll list what I dont want. I dont want a body lift, I never really have liked them and the gap they leave between the body and frame. And I dont want to trim my fenders. What size tire do you think I should be able to run? My goal was a minimum of 35's with hopes of bigger ones. I guess I can go past that [img]smile.gif[/img] How about 37's? Could I go bigger without body lift/fender trimming? thanks for you advice guys. I'm gonna hurry and do all this while I am still young and stupid...lol
__________________
79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on re-centered H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.0L/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, WJ knuckles and brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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10-03-2003, 11:30 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 12, 2000
Location: dayton,oh,45431
Posts: 6,633
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on a WT you can fit 33s with no lift,35s easy with a 4" spring lift. you could prolly go 38 with a soa on flat springs. sky is the limit if you add body lift and trim fenders.
the above is dependent of course,on the individual tire,the size and offset of the rim you mount it on,and your intended useage(a rig thats not wheeled could possibly get away with a bigger tire without rubbing)
i know you said no body lift,but they do have advantages. you get room for tires without affecting driveshafts or steering [img]smile.gif[/img] plus they make maintenance easier. everything from changing oil to pulling the tranny. i love my body lift-i can remove my transfer without having to drop the crossmember to get to the top bolts
there was a guy at haspin oncce in a chevy truck with 2 frames. he had a 6" susp lift,a 3" body lift between frame 1 and frame 2,and a 3" body lift btween frame 2 and the body. he had 42" swampers and they looked small. this truck was BIG. but it was pretty useless in the woods.bout all he could do was run thru the mudholes on the main trail,or hed tip over. just alittle example of how you use the truck should play a part in how you build it. a capable trail rig should have flexible suspension and a fairly low CG,and not be too tall to fit under trees 
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10-04-2003, 03:08 AM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: Jul 18, 2003
Location: Cullman, AL
Posts: 4,477
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I am building both my Jeeps at close to the same time. My cherokee will be my mudder and show off truck (meaning show off by how big it is) and my wrangler will be my flexy tight trail rig, its only gonna have about 3in of lift and 33in tires on a pretty flexy suspension. I prefer the closed in cherokee for mudding rather than the open top of my wrangler. I hate cleaning mud out of the inside of it and not to mention it stains the top and makes it look dirty all the time. So my chero will be the mud runner and fun haver and my wrangler will be my trail master and daily driver.
__________________
79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on re-centered H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.0L/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, WJ knuckles and brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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10-04-2003, 04:29 AM
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Join Date: Jan 21, 2001
Location: Twain Harte, California
Posts: 13,765
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Tfit 37's on a NT wag with no cutting it takes about 12" of lift or so. To run 37's with trimming an SOA will do just fine. Or you could go 6" suspension and trim a bit more.
__________________
Full Size Jeep Network
1981 J10 AMC 258 with TFI and Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with a BJ's Aluminum Radiator, T176, NP208, D44/M23 with 4.56 gears and Detroit Locker, 6" lift, 33x12.50 TSL's, BJ's Offroad Rear Bumper.
1975 Cherokee *Sold*
1989 XJ Limited *Sold*
2005 KJ Limited 3.7, 42RLE, NP242
2008 JK 3.8, 6sp, NP241, 2.5", 33's, 4.56's
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