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  #1  
Old 09-13-2000, 07:08 AM
bignblue
 
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Question

Hey all...I noticed a cyclical vibration coming through the gas pedal on the way home from work last night, and the first thing I thought was "front end." My mech had told me a couple of months ago that it was leaking, but the only spots on the driveway were no more than pancake-size. Well, I pulled fill plug out today, stuck my finger down in there and found...nothing. Not a drop! With all due haste I filled the pumpkin back up with gear oil and watched as a drop formed on the bottom of the housing to splash gently on my driveway. Aargh! No problem, I'll just pull off the cover, spray the gears with brake cleaner (the fresh oil had black gunk from the gears on it when I checked the level), lay a bead of silicone and be on my merry way.

My question is this: the directions on the silicone sealant call for a curing time of 12 hours. I don't HAVE twelve vehicle-free hours! How long does this stuff have to set before it's safe to drive with it? I'm thinking of doing this Friday morning but I have to be at work at 3 p.m., and I'll need SOME sleep to make it through the night. Any help appreciated.

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'78 Chero WT
401/4bbl/TH400/BWQT
44s F&R
"Jeep: the toughest 4-letter word on wheels"
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  #2  
Old 09-13-2000, 07:18 AM
Veepster Veepster is offline
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Join Date: May 14, 2000
Location: State College, PA USA
Posts: 1,366
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If you are using one of the automotive silicones I would give it at least a few hours before putting in fluid, I have filled within an hour before with no problem.......if you only have 6 hours...well then you only have 6 hours!

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Peace.............BartG

the Green Flash!
78 Chero
360 2v, 400 QT with low
almost drivable:
4" skyjacker
33x12.50 BFG KO's
Thorley headers, 3" exhaust
Infiniti power leather seats
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  #3  
Old 09-13-2000, 08:24 AM
River Beast River Beast is offline
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Location: Lakewood, Calif
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BnB

I use orange HI-Temp RTV on mine with no gaskets and never leak... I wait about 1/2 hour and fill 'em up...

------------------
Todd
78 Wagoneer "River Beast"
360/TH400/QT
Dana 44's (soon to be locked w/ 4.88's and 38x14.50's)
7" SOA conversion
4" Skyjacker Softride
3" Trailmaster Bodylift
My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/~spazz4life
My E-mail: spazz4life@yahoo.com
"Where there's a hill...there's a way!"
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  #4  
Old 09-13-2000, 08:35 AM
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ClarkGriswald ClarkGriswald is offline
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Join Date: Jul 03, 2000
Location: Bloomingdale MI , USA
Posts: 1,472
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I use a cork gasket with Blue RTV on either side really thin coat, and a really thin coat of the same RTV on the inner pan surface and on the pig. Thin Coats. They are nearly dry by the time I put it together. I filled immediatly and have no leaks.

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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
Warn 20990 Lockouts
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Custom Hacking Via S.P.A. (Standard Polish Archetecture)
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  #5  
Old 09-13-2000, 08:45 AM
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Ralph Ralph is offline
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Location: Telluruide, CO
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Ditto what Clark wrote. The gasket itself is the main barrier for sealing. The RTV is just that perfectionist's touch.
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  #6  
Old 09-13-2000, 04:34 PM
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scotty scotty is offline
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Join Date: Jun 12, 2000
Location: dayton,oh,45431
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iiiccchhh! i hate permatex,and will only use silicone if i cannot find a gasket. most stuff i just stick the gasket on there-water pumps,thermostat housings,etc. as long as you get both surfaces clean it wont leak.

on my tranny pan gasket,and diff gaskets,or anything that you may want to get apart later and not have to f*** with cleaning off old silicone,i use a cork or rubber gasket,and line both sides with marine grease.it works great-comes off good enough to reuse in most cases,doesnt leak,and does wonders for keeping the water out.best of all,no scraping off old rtv or permatex.i chec fluids,and sometimes have my covers off weekly,so i just dont have time for the cleaning gasket surface thing.

if a gasket does not exist,i use silicone and have in some cases filled it up immediately. at leat silicone cleans off alot easier than permatex.



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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future
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  #7  
Old 09-13-2000, 04:46 PM
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ClarkGriswald ClarkGriswald is offline
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Location: Bloomingdale MI , USA
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I share your hate for permatex scotty but use it anyways.. Mabye cause a few years ago i discoverd this 3m scrubby pads. they are ones used for stripping wood\paint.. these things are so course they could shred wood surfaces and make the wood fuzzy.. but they are great cause you can cut a litte piece and scrubb that Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley right off of most metal surfaces.. these are so course they almost hurt to hang onto them with your bare hands.. they will really score aluminum however so dont anyone use em on alum.. but on steel like diff's they are great. I agree on trannys I only use a gasket. Now that I filled up my rear diff a few weeks ago(only had a half quart of grey sludge in it) it is now leaking pretty good out of the front seal.. guess Ill have to start soakin that nut on the yolk..

------------------
88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
Warn 20990 Lockouts
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Custom Hacking Via S.P.A. (Standard Polish Archetecture)
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