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  #1  
Old 06-27-2005, 12:35 AM
Tim smith Tim smith is offline
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I just did a huge tune up on the Chero. 80, 360, 727, 208.

I did the level 2 ingnition upgrade (the one that uses the ford TFI coil) and all I can say is WOW. Some issue I ran into. You will need to ask for the slip on rotor not the bolt on. You will need the distributor cap base from a '79 Ford 350 w/ 460. You need the cap and PUSH on rotor from and '84 Ford 350 w/ 460 and EEC. Wire from something intirely different because we had to get the right coil wire by miss matching, they ened up being the 8mm low resistance kind though. It took three trips to Advance Auto to get the right stuff (this was more my fault because he was giving me what I asked for). I just used common blade connectors to adapter the harness to the TFI coil and I use the same bracket that the and can coil was on to mount it. I had to fab it a little but it worked really well. I have about $50 in the whole upgrade.

I also did a compression test and all cylinders were 120psi or better with very little leak down and that was on a "dry" motor. I changed the plugs, air filter, pcv and checked all the other fluids. Other thing I did was an oil change. That sure went smoothly.

I am not sure who did the oil change on this last but that guy should be killed. It took me 2.5 hours to get the filter off. I tried brute force. No go. I tried a wrench. No go. I tried a screw driver through it and only succeeded in tearing the filter in half and making a HUGE mess. The only thing that worked wasI finally took a very big flat head screw driver and chiselled the rest of the can off by cuttiong the mounting surface a millimeter at a time with very descisive hammer blows. Once the can was off I had to pry up the flange, hammer it out and put vise grips on the center and then hammer those until it unscrewed. I would have been surprised at that point if I looked up there an saw that someone had welded the oil filter on. I have NEVER seen one that had to get off.

The kicker was I fully expected to have to buy a new oil pump housing and all after beating on it with a 3lb mini sledge for almost 3 hours, but everything was fine. The seal surface was un mared and the threads were clean and unrusted. There was no evidence of the fact that the oil filter had been put on by the Garilla Monsoon.

When all was said and done though the jeep is TOTALLY different. I thought I had that motor idling smoothly. Oh no, it now idles smoothly. It has probably 20-30 more horses judging by seat-o-pant dyno. Less smell at the exhaust pipe. Fired right up on first try of the key. It even sounds better.

So for my $70 tune-up/ ignition upgrade, I ended up with a just as good as stock preforming motor and with the peice of mind that everything was done right and the motor has a little life left in it. 120psi dry with no leak down is probably just about as good as 140psi after the motor has oiled up.

Moral of the story, do a full tune-up and do the ignition mod and reap the benefits.
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Tim Smith<br />\'80 Chero WT, 360ci, 727 auto, 208tc. TFI upgrade. <br /><br />Soon to come: 4\" lift, 33s, welded rear, cut rear, tube bed, soft doors, fiberglass hood, custom grill, rust spots fixed, new paint, slider rockers, Propane, lots of TLC. I will be stripping everything that doesn\'t help it go down the road. I may even do a small blower if I can find one cheap.
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Old 06-27-2005, 01:25 AM
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Nice, but the info about the dizzy cap, base, and rotor are already in the archives and on various web sites. [img]smile.gif[/img]

The wires from a 79 F350 with a TFI 460 work just fine. [img]smile.gif[/img]
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Old 06-27-2005, 01:36 AM
Tim smith Tim smith is offline
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I used the info from the tech section and it got me a little confused. It said to use all the stuff from an '84 which I couldn't do. I had to mix and match the two years, '79 and '84. Nothing major just a small inconvienance having to go back a couple times. I am sure everyone would figure it out on thier own. I just told him to get me a set of wires for a V-8 that had TBI fuel injection. I think I ended up with a set for a Chevy 350. The lengths all ended up pretty close too. It only took him about 3 seconds to get the nice wires when the '84s coil wire wasn't right. I did specify that I needed the parts WITH EEC but he may have been confused too.

Still, THE best money ever spent
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Tim Smith<br />\'80 Chero WT, 360ci, 727 auto, 208tc. TFI upgrade. <br /><br />Soon to come: 4\" lift, 33s, welded rear, cut rear, tube bed, soft doors, fiberglass hood, custom grill, rust spots fixed, new paint, slider rockers, Propane, lots of TLC. I will be stripping everything that doesn\'t help it go down the road. I may even do a small blower if I can find one cheap.
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Old 06-27-2005, 01:55 AM
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Here's an even easier way to do it. I went shopping at AutoZone when I did mine, and here's my list.

Cap And Rotor Set: Conrad (Now "Gold" or "Duralast Gold") F2103G
Distributor Cap Adapter: Wells F958
Spark Plug Wires, 8mm: "Ultra Spark/Double Silicone" 4188
TFI Coil: Wells C839
TFI Coil Bracket (came with dead coil and TFI connector): Salvage Yard, any late 80's Ford (but can be bought at some parts stores - TFI connector is available in stores for SURE)
8mm Wire Separators: Spectre 4217
Spark Plugs: Autolite 65

[ October 18, 2005, 07:05 AM: Message edited by: Spectre ]
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Old 06-27-2005, 05:02 AM
tcossey33 tcossey33 is offline
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Are those the right parts for an 87 Wagoneer? Can i get the TFI Connector at Auto Zone. Sorry, The tech section has me alittle confused too.
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Old 06-27-2005, 05:10 AM
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Yes, they're the same for all the Duraspark Wags. And you can get the TFI connector at Autozone, but you'll want a TFI coil bracket off a Ford to properly mount it.
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:10 AM
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There is a gotcha, by the way - sometimes the terminal marked "1" on the new cap does not correspond with the rotor position when the engine is at TDC for #1. You may have to determine where #1 is by hand if your truck does not fire back up immediately after this upgrade.

DO NOT ADJUST YOUR DISTRIBUTOR TO CORRECT THIS. Just move the wires around the cap.
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"Battlewagon": 1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer (w/ Tow Pack) - Urban Assault Wagon under construction - TFI, TBI, CS144, Aftermarket Sanden, Explorer Power Seats, 4" Lift, 16" AHI wheels and much much more; click here for a full list of modifications and gear, links to writeups/posts and more info.

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Old 06-27-2005, 06:19 AM
FSJeeper FSJeeper is offline
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Do a TBI electronic fuel injection swap onto it and you'll be even more amazed.
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:40 AM
Tim smith Tim smith is offline
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I am going propane and forced induction to get me in the relm of 14.5:1 compression and I am going to flatten the ig adv. to match up to the propane. That aught to keep me busy for awhile. That and I am hoping to shave 2K lbs off the beast which will help.
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Tim Smith<br />\'80 Chero WT, 360ci, 727 auto, 208tc. TFI upgrade. <br /><br />Soon to come: 4\" lift, 33s, welded rear, cut rear, tube bed, soft doors, fiberglass hood, custom grill, rust spots fixed, new paint, slider rockers, Propane, lots of TLC. I will be stripping everything that doesn\'t help it go down the road. I may even do a small blower if I can find one cheap.
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:50 AM
tcossey33 tcossey33 is offline
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What do you set the gap at for the spark plugs? which ones are best to use for this set up?
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:53 AM
tcossey33 tcossey33 is offline
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and....im guessing you use the spark plugs intended for the wagoneer , not the ford ....Right?
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:54 AM
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See above - gap them at 0.44 (original spec for Fords with this ignition system, IIRC).

To make sure, while at Autozone get them to tell you the gap for the 1986 Ford F-150 w/302 V8 and EFI, which also had this system and used these plugs. It's in their computers.
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:01 AM
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Considering that the Ford 302/351 and Wagoneer 360 used the same plugs before the TFI upgrade and the Fords used the same plug just with a different gap afterwards....
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:39 AM
Tim smith Tim smith is offline
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I used bosch single platniums (I love them and have never had one fail through many miles of racing, driving, hooliganning, etc. I left the gapped at the setting they were at for the Jeep. I couldn't find the gap so I didn't move them just for the sake of it. They were set at 40 give or take.
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Tim Smith<br />\'80 Chero WT, 360ci, 727 auto, 208tc. TFI upgrade. <br /><br />Soon to come: 4\" lift, 33s, welded rear, cut rear, tube bed, soft doors, fiberglass hood, custom grill, rust spots fixed, new paint, slider rockers, Propane, lots of TLC. I will be stripping everything that doesn\'t help it go down the road. I may even do a small blower if I can find one cheap.
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:45 AM
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Bosch single plats are known to have numerous problems, most relating to the fact that they have a *tiny* center electrode that fouls easily. That, and you better pray you don't run lean...
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Old 06-27-2005, 09:16 AM
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Worth the effort you say? I am looking at doing the same thing on my '83. It needs a lil zap.
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Old 06-27-2005, 09:21 AM
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Steel: Very much so. Check your PMs, I just replied to you.
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Old 06-27-2005, 10:30 AM
tcossey33 tcossey33 is offline
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Is this the right wiring setup for the TFI upgrade?
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:48 AM
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Tim Smith, Thanks for sharing your experience with this. I think everyone that has done the TFI has done it a little differently and the results have all been spectacular. It was with mine. Since the tech article has confused many, I guess it should be updated. All the same, by postig your experience it looks like another whole group has gotten the TFI bug.
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Old 06-27-2005, 03:40 PM
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I just bought the upgraded Ford 460 wires when I did my TFI. The wires were 8mm, and long enough to get around all the passenger side junk.
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