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08-01-2005, 11:01 AM
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Gear Head
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Join Date: Mar 20, 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 651
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I'm finally going to add some new speakers in the next few weeks (whew!). I've searched the board and have found some good information, but I'm looking for a few more tidbits. Keep in mind that I'm trying to keep any 'major modifications' to a minimum.
Here goes...
1) Does anyone know the depth limitation for the front door mounted speakers? Will speakers that are 2.25" deep work?
2) Can 6.5" speakers with in the front and rear speaker holes without major cutting (say... new screw holes only)?
3) All things being equal, will 6.5" speakers sound as good as 6" x 9" speakers, or will I notice a lack of bass with the 6.5"?
4) For the price, are PYLE speakers worth getting? Buy.com has 'em for a great, great price!
I'm hoping to (at the very least) replace the stock speakers with 6.5" 2-ways -- in the front and back locations. From what I've read, I *should* be able to do that with only adding some new screw holes. If possible, though, I might like to go slightly larger in the rear speakers. Also, I'm not interested in adding a sub at this point.
Thanks muchly!!!
Scott
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08-01-2005, 05:02 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: May 05, 2005
Location: Lima, Ohio
Posts: 497
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To get the depth clearance in your doors, pull the door panel and measure the distance from the mounting surface back to the glass (make sure window is rolled down). I usually subtract 1/4" from this measurement for added insurance.
All three sizes mentioned can easily be made to fit, though I'd recommend the 6x9's. The 5.25's and 6.5's just aren't capable of producing the same bass as a quality 6x9. If you aren't planning to run a subwoofer to cover the low frequencies, then this will be the best option. Just get a set of Tad's 6x9 adapter plates ($25 or so) and you'll be set.
As for the quality of Pyle speakers, it all depends on what you consider "good". Personally, I'd compare most of their speakers to that of Jensen and the like (they make sound, but it's full of distortion).
For a basic head unit and speakers only system, it's vital to buy good components to get good sound. Look at the Signal-to-Noise ratio of the components, as this tells you how loud the component can play before distortion takes over (head units should be over 100db, speakers over 90db on the better stuff). Contrairy to popular belief, it's not too much wattage that blows speakers 99.9% of the time, it's the distortion they are subjected to.
While I'm planning to also run an amp and subwoofer, here's what I've picked out for my own rig for the head unit and front/rear speakers. The same setup would work equally well w/o an amp in the system.
Kenwood KDC-MP4028 IN-dash CD/MP3 = $179.99
Soundstream Tarantula SST6.9 6x9's = $99.00
The head unit has a signal-to-noise ration of 105db, and provides 22 watts RMS (50w peak) to each speaker. It also has CD-Changer controls, 3 sets of pre-amp outputs (front, rear, & sub), 4V pre-amp output voltage, and a wireless remote.
The Soundstream speakers have separate connection points for the woofer and tweeter, and include a 12db per octive passice crossover to ensure each only receives the frequencies it's supposed to. (They also include grills, the picture in the link above just doesn't show them.)
So, for under $400 you can have a top quality basic system that is already setup for any future expansion you may want to do (amps, subs, electronic X-overs, etc.).
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08-01-2005, 07:20 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2004
Location: Albuquerque, N
Posts: 180
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you can put 6x9s on all 4 of the speaker locations. You will need to fab up some brackets for the front doors, I used some think aluminum sheet metal, with a drill and some metal shears its pretty quick work. For the rear you are going to need to cut the old bracket and adapt it to accept 6x9s. You use the original bracket to support the one you fabed up with again more aluminum sheet metal. You can pick up some sheet metal at LOWES or HOME DEPOT. It no more than 20 bucks for a nice big sheet if you mess up. Just make sure to measure twice cut once. I have Pioneer 6x9s on all 4 corners of both my 83 Wag and 75 Chero. No problems yet, ohh i almost forgot you are going to have to trim the door panels to fit the larger 6x9s. But they should fit no probs, the 75 has manual windows and the 83 has power ones so it should make no diffrence. Good luck
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75 Cherokee S,401,THM 400,Quadra-Trac,4in lift,31 BFGs RIP
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08-02-2005, 03:47 AM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Sep 19, 2004
Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
Posts: 407
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A few months ago, I installed 6x9's in the rear panels. Not too difficult, although I needed to make some mounting plates out of 3/4" plywood and screw them to the existing brackets. Sounds great though.
Yesterday,I finally installed in the front doors, the 6x9 Pioneer 3-ways that I had still new in the box sitting in the back of the Waggy for the past 3 months. I bought a piece of metal thinking I would need something like what TAD sells, but I just removed the Jensens and their speaker covers mounted on the door panels. I then cut the forward part of the exisiting mounting brackets as well as about 2-3" into the door panels with a jigsaw and then drilled holes into the mounting bracket at the back and the door panel at the front and through the carpeted door panel and they work fine.
Lots of bass and a relatively easy install...about 2 hours a side. Fixed my passenger side power door lock and replaced my rear power window switch as well. All in all, a great Waggy day.
Greg
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87 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/NP208
BJ's Front and Rear Dozer Bumpers
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08-02-2005, 05:39 AM
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 30, 2004
Location: Warren, NJ
Posts: 45
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What are "Tad's 6x9 adapter plates" ?
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-------------------------<br />1989 GW - 36k orig miles<br />All stock except for HEI<br />-------------------------
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08-02-2005, 07:57 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Nov 30, 2001
Location: Out West
Posts: 17,675
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaddyO:
What are "Tad's 6x9 adapter plates" ?
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http://ttsfabworks.home.mchsi.com/speakers.htm
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