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11-05-2003, 02:54 AM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jul 30, 2000
Location: East Coast
Posts: 1,673
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After having a near death experience two days ago I decided it's time to improve Bushwood's brakes
I had the green light, a women in an Oldsmobuick(?) turned left in front of me, I braked hard, cut left, then right and barely missed her P-side rear quarter... Oh by the way, I was near HER death... that little GM thing would've been a punted across the intersection and into a tree.
Anyway, I've replaced the lines with extended braided steel lines. Beyond that, it's all stock - pads, master cylinder, etc.
Any suggestions on simple/cheap upgrades?
Thanks.
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Mark
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11-05-2003, 03:04 AM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Apr 25, 2002
Location: Onalaska, WA
Posts: 1,696
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If everything is in working order, new brake pads can make a huge difference. Autozone sells Performance Friction pads that work very well.
A bigger and better booster/master cylinder will make a big difference as well. I run a hydroboost/master cylinder setup from a CUCV and it made a nigh/day difference for me.
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11-05-2003, 03:08 AM
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Join Date: Jun 12, 2002
Location: ansonia ct. 06401
Posts: 5,527
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and make sure your rotors and drums arent glazed.just a few bucks to have them cleaned up,or the zone has rotors for 24 bucks. dont know how much the drums are
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85 gw 215k and still going
castrated(de-wooded)360 2" espo springs 31x10.5
89 gw,free,almost legal
She can dance a Cajun rhythm,Jump like a Willys in four wheel drive,
the world is full of kings and queens who blind your eyes and steal your dreams
"Our militarized "law enforcement" has become the standing army our founders feared"
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11-05-2003, 03:32 AM
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Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
Posts: 18,986
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Mark, the later rigs like yours have pretty good stock brakes so rather than trying add-ons I would just bring your stock brakes up to spec. If you haven't done a complete brake job in a few years you might want to consider one. Also pump out the old juice and replace it. Brake fluid sucks up moisture and reduces the effectiveness not to mention rusts the internal parts. I've heard said you should change fluid every two years but IMO that may be a bit overkill but every 4 or 5 years is a good thing.
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joe
"when we were children, we are reborn every morning,but when we are older, a little of us dies every night, killed by mortgages, bills, dry rot, rising damp. When we travel, though, we are children again."
-Geoff Hill
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11-05-2003, 03:34 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Sep 18, 2000
Location: Atlanta, Ga, USA
Posts: 3,472
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Quote:
Originally posted by -joe:
Mark, the later rigs like yours have pretty good stock brakes so rather than trying add-ons I would just bring your stock brakes up to spec. If you haven't done a complete brake job in a few years you might want to consider one. Also pump out the old juice and replace it. Brake fluid sucks up moisture and reduces the effectiveness not to mention rusts the internal parts. I've heard said you should change fluid every two years but IMO that may be a bit overkill but every 4 or 5 years is a good thing.
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Umm..ugh..yeah. Mark, your rear brakes almost fell off the hub last time we were working on your Jeep. Heed Joe...
But, at least you now have some nice stainless flexhose to go with them new calipers!
__________________
Brad Reardon<br />1977ish Cherokee Chief.
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11-05-2003, 03:46 AM
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Disciple of A.M.C.
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Join Date: Aug 19, 2002
Location: Burlington, CT 06013
Posts: 5,000
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And your 88 should already have a tandem diaphragm booster, which is a popular upgrade. I think it's time to look over the existing brake system as the others have said.
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Jason Davis
'82 J-10 Laredo, 360, T-177, 4" Rusty's
'85 J-10 (parts)
'09 Pontiac G8 GT Sport, '97 Sierra (Vortec 454), '98 Silverado Z71 (5.7 Vortec)
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11-05-2003, 09:39 AM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Sep 22, 2003
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 1,071
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Mark,
I have a 1990 and spent all weekend putting in lines, a caliper, rotors, drums, and pads. The caliper (which was causing my problems) was only $17 at Napa, plus a $30 core - if I new it was that cheap before I started I would have replaced both. Rotors and drums are cheap too. The inner side of one of my rotors was almost completely gone and I had some strange brew in my fluid. I only bring this up because if my brakes were this bad on a rust free 1990, yours may be even worse. It isn't that expensive to rebuild the whole system.
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Marc D<br /><br />1990 Grand Wagoneer<br />HEI conversion
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11-05-2003, 10:47 PM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jul 30, 2000
Location: East Coast
Posts: 1,673
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Yeah... you guys are right. Other than braided lines and new front calipers, I have pretty much neglected the brakes. Guess I'll dig in and get'em up to spec'
Thanks.
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Mark
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11-06-2003, 12:59 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Sep 18, 2000
Location: Atlanta, Ga, USA
Posts: 3,472
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Mark,
If you wanna swing by this weekend or next on Saturday your more than welcome. I'll be working on my Jeep anyway, we can tackle some projects together. If the wife and kids want to come by for dinner, that'd be great too.
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Brad Reardon<br />1977ish Cherokee Chief.
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11-06-2003, 01:11 AM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: Jul 28, 2002
Location: San Leandro, Ca
Posts: 2,949
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[hijack] My new axle has a little spots of rust all on my rotors. What should i do about it how bad is it to run this...[end hijack] thanks. 
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All It Takes Is Money.
I'm the reason why you can only have Jeeps for Avatars. You're welcome.
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11-06-2003, 04:22 AM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Apr 09, 2000
Location: Zeeland, MI
Posts: 1,810
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If you are willing to spend a little extra coin in the get-go, swing for Ceramic pads...stop better, last longer, and are guaranteed lifetime. AND, no brake dust...or at least LOTS less. I have them on my J and they are awesome.
Don, those spots of rust mean the end is near for those rotors. I have tried to turn thos hard spots out on the lathe, and it just doesn't work. The best bet for you would be to get a couple of rotors. You can run them like they are, but it'll eat up your pads. Unless it's just flash rust...then you should be fine.
[ November 06, 2003, 11:25 AM: Message edited by: RustyJeep ]
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-Rustyjeep-
aka Ben Mitchell
'73 J4000 3/4 ton -nothing is stock-
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11-06-2003, 05:46 AM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Oct 17, 2000
Location: Strawberry Point, Iowa, USA
Posts: 2,367
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theres also the ability change out the vacumn booster to hydrolic. RiverBeast did that. uses the power steering pump to power the brakes. check out his website
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