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09-26-2003, 12:33 AM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jun 01, 2002
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 2,420
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The subject is an '84 GW with a very bad case of frame rot near the gas tank. My question: is it possible to section in a salvaged piece of frame to repair the problem?
The vehicle is in Toledo, I'm in Texas, and my brother is trying to find someone to do the work. Seems that there aren't many body shops willing to assume the liability for such a repair, and from the descriptions I've received the damage is worse than "usual".
Where can I get a decent section? Anyone got a sacrificial frame???
Any ideas appreciated, we're at a loss and the clock is ticking ...
TIA!
__________________
Kerry - Raised by Jeep
"Got Altitude?"
"Trigger"
'78 Cherokee Chief WT 33X12.50 BFG A/T's, 15X8 Rockcrawlers, 4" BDS lift, TFI, NOS QT, TH400
"Sherman"
1993 4.0L Grand Cherokee, 44HD rear, 4:10's
"Roxie"
2004 Rubicon
"Moose"
2000 Ford Expedition XLT with 4.6L
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09-26-2003, 01:07 AM
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Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 8,883
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Vertical welds on frames usually break. You wouldn't just cut a section out and weld a new section in from another frame.
The usual fix (not neccessarily for SJs, but in general) is to make a plate matching the side of the frame and extending as far as practical. You only weld the top and bottom edge to the frame - no vertical welds. If the top and bottom rails of the frame are rotted, you can add strapping that rund along the top and bottom of the fram, again weld only along the length of the frame, not its width.
You can notch out the ends of the plate or strap into what's usually called a "fisheye" - A V-shaped cut that makes the end welds go at a diagonal to the vertical. Don't know how much extra strength this actually adds, except that it keeps water out from between the plate and frame.
hth  Tim
__________________
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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09-26-2003, 04:07 AM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jun 01, 2002
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 2,420
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That's some good info, and a few things there I wouldn't have thought about (i.e. vertical welds). My brother is taking it to a shop that seems willing to do the work so I'll keep this up to date when I hear something. 
__________________
Kerry - Raised by Jeep
"Got Altitude?"
"Trigger"
'78 Cherokee Chief WT 33X12.50 BFG A/T's, 15X8 Rockcrawlers, 4" BDS lift, TFI, NOS QT, TH400
"Sherman"
1993 4.0L Grand Cherokee, 44HD rear, 4:10's
"Roxie"
2004 Rubicon
"Moose"
2000 Ford Expedition XLT with 4.6L
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09-26-2003, 06:31 AM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Sep 02, 2003
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon 97123
Posts: 1,688
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bummer there. my 89 has a pulled frame but is still bent at the fulkrom.
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09-26-2003, 10:02 AM
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New Member
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Join Date: Sep 25, 2003
Location: omaha, ne
Posts: 17
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try going to grandwagoneers.com. He has a frame repair kit that is made exactly for the wagoneer frame where it rusts. I think its only about 60 bucks.
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09-26-2003, 10:08 AM
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 226
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09-26-2003, 11:32 AM
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Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 8,883
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Quote:
Originally posted by tgreese:
You can notch out the ends of the plate or strap into what's usually called a "fisheye"
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Oops. Should be "fish mouth" I believe.
__________________
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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