air tube / banjo bolt damage (pics -trying to repair air check valve)

[TimK]

Well I attempted to replace the check valve...

I heard that the banjo bolts break, so I attempted to remove the the lower check valve half (after a few hours of applying a break free penatrant repeatedly).
This only started to twist the air tube.

I tried to grind slots in the hex nut till I saw threads, as I was described to do.
Trying to chisle open the nut only started to bend the air tube.
So, I cut a bit deeper and attempted to split the nut from above, which only started to crush the air manifold that the tubes join to.

Alas, I had to remove the air tube and banjo bolts....
Guess what, it came off without breaking!

So I finished with a few more slices on the check valve and with one blow from a chisle, she opened up...

OH Yeah, see the heater box? No wonder the P.O. said the heater box thermostat wasn't working...

Do you think I should risk using the air tube assembly?
The threads are scored as shown on each half, but not to the bottom of the pitch.
Putting on the check valve should seal it up.
It is bent a bit, but not too bad.
I do think I could remove another from a junk yard without too much difficulty though...






[ August 06, 2005, 09:46 PM: Message edited by: TimK ]

[SBJeep]

That's how they are supposed to pop off. Sorry to hear it bent the tubes in the process. I've buggered up the threads doing it this way, but it worked every time but one, where I pretzeled the thing worse than yours.

BJ's has new air tubes.

I put anti-sieze on the banjo bolts and check valves for next time. I'm interested to see if it keeps things from siezing or if the stuff just burns off and I'm in the same boat as always.

I had a hole in my heater box like that which I covered with a chunk of exhaust repair wrap that they sell at the cheap auto parts stores. I had to use hi-temp RTV to get it to stick.

[babywag]

If you've got autozone store(s) by you they will order them...just call it into the store and go pick them up a few days later...

I paid $53.xx for both including tax.
They also had the check valves for $10 each.

[GWChris]

I got mine from www.rockauto.com for much cheaper. I know they are only painted, and may not last as long as the plated ones you can get elsewhere, but they're not rusting away rapidly either. I also antiseized them.. Of course, I slather that stuff on most everything, except spark plugs where it interferes with heat transfer.

[TimK]

I got some used ones locally today. The check valves on those look ok so I'll leave them. ??- Can spark plug washers be used in place of the old banjo manifold bolt washers?

The reason I asked is cause I lost 2. Now don't worry, I found them just a little while ago when I was removing the overload springs from my rig.

But anyway,The parts guys didn't have any manifold washers, but thought 14mm sparkplug washers would work. At 25 cents each, they seem a nearly exact fit and could seal better than the old ones...

oh yeah, I also picked up (used) heater box and core, front driveline, and some of the misc. emissions hoses and valves and such. Thanks Dennis J and hope to see you on here!!

anyway, heaterbox swap tomorrow after work, then the emmision stuff...

Thank you all for your input help!

[Clem]

Go find a cooper oil pan drain plug. Cooper will seal up better because it will deform a bit to match the surface of what it is sealing to better than steel will...
I used these with some aftermarket bolts when I didn't put the air tubes back on it...

[Spectre]

Cooper? What kind of material is that?

Or do you mean copper? [img]smile.gif[/img]

[mdill9]

Originally posted by TimK:
I got some used ones locally today. The check valves on those look ok so I'll leave them. ??- Can spark plug washers be used in place of the old banjo manifold bolt washers?

The reason I asked is cause I lost 2. Now don't worry, I found them just a little while ago when I was removing the overload springs from my rig.

But anyway,The parts guys didn't have any manifold washers, but thought 14mm sparkplug washers would work. At 25 cents each, they seem a nearly exact fit and could seal better than the old ones...

oh yeah, I also picked up (used) heater box and core, front driveline, and some of the misc. emissions hoses and valves and such. Thanks Dennis J and hope to see you on here!!

anyway, heaterbox swap tomorrow after work, then the emmision stuff...

Thank you all for your input help!

If you look at the Jeep part number, them vs, the plug washers, they are one and the same, hence they are spark plug washers !.

Plug washers do deform to create a seal, hence
you should never reuse a plug washer or in this
case banjo bolt washer, I prefer the cooper ones
if you can find them [img]smile.gif[/img]

Mike D.

[ August 07, 2005, 11:22 PM: Message edited by: mdill9 ]

[TimK]

Actually thats a great idea, I may have to look for some.

The spark plug washers appear to be used in the aftermarket replacement part, what do you think?
link:

http://www.pciinc.com/partdetail.cfm?pn=413

The origionals appear to be hardened steel like the manifold bolt washers. But they could be regular steel that has been subjected to heat too.

[TimK]

mdill9, thanks, you must have been reading my mind!

[elvisisdead]

For the hole in the heater box, use silicone tape from Duluth Trading Co. Excellent stuff, and good to 500 degrees. Permanent bond in 24 hours.