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Old 11-02-2019, 03:48 PM
JERSEY JOE's Avatar
JERSEY JOE JERSEY JOE is offline
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ONE WIRE ALTERNATOR

Anyone running a one wire alternator on an AMC V8?

what model fits with the least issue?
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1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 IHC D300 FARM TRUCK NY
1985 CJ 7 AMC 401, CLARK 285SV 5 SPEED, DANA 60, DANA 44, RUBICON 4.5 LIFT. 37 KRAWLERS
1987 J-20 401 90% COMPLETED.
1985 J-20 360 6 inch lift, 37's plow truck
1986 J-20 360 stock well rusted plow truck
1970 AMX CURRENT PROJECT
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  #2  
Old 11-02-2019, 03:54 PM
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Crankyolman Crankyolman is offline
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I'm using a 1 wire Powermaster 150 amp that is a Motorola replacement. It wasn't cheap but it's a real nice alternator, was easy to install and seems to work very nicely.
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2019, 03:55 PM
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JERSEY JOE JERSEY JOE is offline
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one wire

So it's just the positive big wire with nothing else?

do you have a part number?
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1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 IHC D300 FARM TRUCK NY
1985 CJ 7 AMC 401, CLARK 285SV 5 SPEED, DANA 60, DANA 44, RUBICON 4.5 LIFT. 37 KRAWLERS
1987 J-20 401 90% COMPLETED.
1985 J-20 360 6 inch lift, 37's plow truck
1986 J-20 360 stock well rusted plow truck
1970 AMX CURRENT PROJECT
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  #4  
Old 11-02-2019, 05:40 PM
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Cecil14 Cecil14 is offline
 
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The big positive output wire is not the "one wire." Regardless of what alternator you get, you will always need a field wire. You can technically take a regular SI or CS alternator and move the sense wire back to the big positive output post. You lose the remote sense ability, but if you're not concerned about that it won't be a big deal.


There are plenty of one-wire SI alternators out there. I don't have any particular recommendations handy, but they are out there.


Is there a specific reason you want to run a one-wire?
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Old 11-02-2019, 06:19 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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yah,not a one wire fan. three wire is so easy to hook up,and so better.
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2019, 06:49 PM
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JERSEY JOE JERSEY JOE is offline
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ONE WIRE ALTERNATOR

With this special regulator there is only one wire, the battery + wire

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Wire-Self...72.m2749.l2649
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1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 IHC D300 FARM TRUCK NY
1985 CJ 7 AMC 401, CLARK 285SV 5 SPEED, DANA 60, DANA 44, RUBICON 4.5 LIFT. 37 KRAWLERS
1987 J-20 401 90% COMPLETED.
1985 J-20 360 6 inch lift, 37's plow truck
1986 J-20 360 stock well rusted plow truck
1970 AMX CURRENT PROJECT
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  #7  
Old 11-02-2019, 07:52 PM
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Crankyolman Crankyolman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JERSEY JOE
So it's just the positive big wire with nothing else?

do you have a part number?




Because my truck is a '72 it had a 30 amp Motorola alternator so I needed one that had the 1" mount, later ones had wider mounts. You can find the powermaster replacement alternators on page 108 & 109 in their catalogue.
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/catalog.html


This is how it hooks up
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/alt1_gm_si.pdf





Quote:
Originally Posted by Cecil14
The big positive output wire is not the "one wire." Regardless of what alternator you get, you will always need a field wire.


I don't know how they hook it up internally but the Powermaster I have only has one big main wire and a ground to hook up, no additional field wire. They do have the ability to connect to the amp light on the dash with a connector that looks like the one for a 3 wire but they say this about it,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Powermaster
Optional Charge Indicator Light Function: Your Powermaster Alternator is designed to work as a 1 wire without any connections to the plug in.The function of the plug is to run a charge indicator (Idiot Light) only. This plug also does not serve as a hookup point for a voltmeter, or help charging at idle. This connection has no effect on charging performance
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Last edited by Crankyolman : 11-02-2019 at 08:02 PM.
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2019, 10:36 PM
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Cecil14 Cecil14 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crankyolman
I don't know how they hook it up internally but the Powermaster I have only has one big main wire and a ground to hook up, no additional field wire. They do have the ability to connect to the amp light on the dash with a connector that looks like the one for a 3 wire but they say this about it,
They must be piggybacking off the output wire internally, which would have power from the battery before the alternator starts charging. Without some initial power, an alternator will not charge. Doesn't really matter where the initial power comes from, but it does have to be there.

Again I have to ask, though, is there a reason you want a one-wire alternator Joe? As Ristow said, three wire (really only need two) alts are super easy to wire, and offer a pretty significant benefit in the remote voltage sensing if you take advantage of it.
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  #9  
Old 11-03-2019, 06:39 AM
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JERSEY JOE JERSEY JOE is offline
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ALTERNATOR

No I am taking your expert advice and will go with the CS-130 100 amp. I did get the replacement harness with the one wire plug that has the diode in in that goes to acc 12v. So there will be the large battery + lead and the plug with the diode /
that goes to acc 12 v. I guess I can wire this to the coil 12v.

So it's a 2 wire. Would be 3 if I wanted an indicator light. I will run a digital volt meter inside so that I can monitor the running voltage which should be 13.8 to 14.2????

Also my CS-130 case has been machined down to the width of the AMC mount.

Thanks ALL!!
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1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 IHC D300 FARM TRUCK NY
1985 CJ 7 AMC 401, CLARK 285SV 5 SPEED, DANA 60, DANA 44, RUBICON 4.5 LIFT. 37 KRAWLERS
1987 J-20 401 90% COMPLETED.
1985 J-20 360 6 inch lift, 37's plow truck
1986 J-20 360 stock well rusted plow truck
1970 AMX CURRENT PROJECT
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  #10  
Old 11-12-2019, 08:27 AM
rocklaurence rocklaurence is offline
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I ran a Power Master 1 wire until the bearings went out. Since then Ive run the Advance Auto single wire in two trucks without any issues. However, the Advance Auto units are only 40 amps but I have good AGM batteries and have never had issues with running the battery down even when winching.
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  #11  
Old 11-12-2019, 11:05 AM
KillyMcGee KillyMcGee is offline
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I run this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But I run it in a 3 wire configuration. To run it as a 1 wire you simply unplug the 2 other wires. Fit was fine (swapped my pulley onto it)
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  #12  
Old 11-12-2019, 11:55 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JERSEY JOE
No I am taking your expert advice and will go with the CS-130 100 amp...
Which Jeep? Don't run the factory ammeter with that alternator - could cause a fire.

Supposedly a 3-wire can be configured as a 1-wire if you connect the sense wire to the charge wire and leave the excite wire floating. Not a good setup though, since it has to spin fast for the residual magnetism in the rotor to make enough voltage (how many barrier potentials?) to excite the circuit.
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  #13  
Old 11-13-2019, 07:32 AM
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nograin nograin is offline
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The ammeter, the fusible link, or really even the connections for those has little to do with the alternators output.
Decisions should be based on the load a wire will see. In plain english, how much current the lights or equipment will draw through those circuits.


Nothing should be on the battery run except the battery (and the starter) with a few exceptions - such as an electric winch. In that case, its worth looking into a direct connection with the alternator or some form of isolation and a second battery. That all depends on the winch or plow load, but the alternator's potential output then should be looked at.
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