Auxiliary Radiator

[Mr Carts]

Just in time for the scorching heat we have today I mounted a CJ-3 heater core next to the driver side headlight.

I cut a 7.25 x 7.50 square hole next to the headlight, the CJ-3 heater core will add 49 sq in. of cooling area, I ran rubber heater hose from the inlet and outlet fittings to two pieces of ½ in thin wall copper tubing in front of the radiator then heater hose up to the back of the block and the water pump.

The grill needed a bit of cutting on the vertical areas of the cross bar to allow full airflow.

The air exits out thru the factory holes and the area next to the radiator.

Running a heater core is a trick I used years ago, when I would go down to the East Cape in Baja in the summer. It really helps to get and keep the coolant temp down.

As I am going to install AC I figured ever bit will help.

When I install the AC I am going to replace the radiator as it needs to be pulled to remove the old condenser core and put the new one in.

[gsmikie]

along with clothes pin on the gas line / baking soda in the carb / windsheild washer hose run to the front of the radiator wrap all hoses in elec tape rubbing alcohol and water mix in the rad underwear made out of alum foil .... just a couple summer heat tricks......

[Rich88]

Originally Posted by Mr Carts

...When I install the AC I am going to replace the radiator as it needs to be pulled to remove the old condenser core and put the new one in.

If you replaced the radiator now you could probably dispense with the red neck heater core addendum radiator. Your cooling system is not under-designed. But rather there's something wrong with it that needs to be fixed.

Fan clutch new? Fan shroud installed?

[Mr Carts]

I am not sure what you mean by Redneck?

Adding about 12% more cooling capacity will only improve on the factory system.

Adding an Auxiliary is a proven help when running in extreme temps such as those found in Baja in the summer.

Ever turn your heater on to cool your engine when pulling a long grade fully loaded?

I have seen auxiliary heaters mounted under the beds of 4x4 pickup trucks that were hooked up to coolant temp sensors that would turn on at high coolant temp and bring it right back down to proper running temps.

[Rich88]

Originally Posted by Mr Carts

I am not sure what you mean by Redneck?

Ever turn your heater on to cool your engine when pulling a long grade fully loaded?

Redneck is a term of endearment. No offense meant.

Never had to turn on my heater to cool the engine when grinding through the Mojave offroad, even in June & July, or when I once towed a baby 85' Cherk across country over mountain & desert...because the stock cooling system was up to snuff.

I did once have to turn on a heater to cool the engine, but that was in another vehicle because the radiator was old and clogged.

[budojeepr]

I added a Dodge Neon radiator under the bed of my crawler J4000 because I just don't have enough capacity to cool the 454.

I mounted it lengthwise and used the Neon electric fans to push the hot air out the side. It works great, but it's tough to burp the system. I ended up filling it by pushing down on the thermostat and slowly adding coolant through it.

[gsmikie]

ha ha ha ha ha "what do you mean redneck " ha ha ha ha

[Mr Carts]

Just checked the temps with my IR Thermometer.

The temp differance from the outlet on the water pump to the inlet on the intakemanifold is 40 degress cooler (with the Radiator showing 185) after flowing thur the heater core mounted next to the driveside headlight.

That was sitting idling for 5 minutes (with no air flow thur the heater core.) after driving 10 miles.

[the original Honcho]

I like the idea.
its also mentioned here: http://oljeep.com/rad/edge_radiator.html

[Dmntxn77]

Originally Posted by Mr Carts

Just checked the temps with my IR Thermometer.

The temp differance from the outlet on the water pump to the inlet on the intakemanifold is 40 degress cooler (with the Radiator showing 185) after flowing thur the heater core mounted next to the driveside headlight.

That was sitting idling for 5 minutes (with no air flow thur the heater core.) after driving 10 miles.

What was the temp difference before the heater core?

[the original Honcho]

Originally Posted by Dmntxn77

What was the temp difference before the heater core?

Im curious on that too? I just check my '75 Wagoneer that im having issues with. Only about 20* difference on mine but I have been having issues with it

[Dmntxn77]

Originally Posted by the original Honcho

Im curious on that too? I just check my '75 Wagoneer that im having issues with. Only about 20* difference on mine but I have been having issues with it

Im just curious because the "after" numbers dont do us much good without the "before" numbers.

Personally, I agree that a properly working system doesnt need a heater core helper. But hey, if it works, it works...

[the original Honcho]

Originally Posted by Dmntxn77

Personally, I agree that a properly working system doesnt need a heater core helper. But hey, if it works, it works...

thats very true and very logical. lots of people have add extra tranny coolers. Same thing to me

[Mr Carts]

Waterpump outlet to heater hose 185F, then after passing thru the heater core mounted next to the headlight, I took the temp about a foot from the inlet on the intake manifold 145F (I used a piece of copper tubing and ran it on the inner fender then to heater hose for the inlet on intake manifold).

[djongeward]

Originally Posted by Rich88

Your cooling system is not under-designed. But rather there's

Barely adiquate for stock. Same applies for the electrical system. You can push it over the limit with any number of modifications. Even something as simple as a lift will throw airflow off. These rigs are classic over heaters.

[Rich88]

Originally Posted by djongeward

...You can push it over the limit with any number of modifications. Even something as simple as a lift will throw airflow off. These rigs are classic over heaters.

If your engine mods (or engine problem) generates a lot more heat than design, or you've screwed up the airflow, then you're correct. If you're stock, than I beg to differ that they're "classic overheaters". I've ground my way slowly up sand washes many times in the Mojave in one FSJ and towed an XJ on a car dolly across country with another (both stock) and never exceeded 220*. And there are enough of others who have the same experience. How do you explain this? A lucky few?

When you start modifying the engine or lift, no telling what you'll run into that will over tax the cooling system. And that can apply to any vehicle. After 7 serial waggys, each stock, I never had a cooling problem that wasn't caused by something worn or clogged, and cured by replacing same...stock.

What concerns me is when newbs with a stock engine have a cooling system problem that can be fixed by replacing the stock (whatever) and think that they should spend much more time and $$$ than is necessary on after market mods just because this guy or that guy did it and reported its now "better".

If I have a shot stock water pump and replace it with a FlowKooler, of course the temps will improve. If I have a worn stock fan clutch and replace it with a more expensive HD fan clutch, of course it will be better. If I have a clogged stock radiator and replace it with a more expensive cross flow, of course it will cure the problem. But the extra expense simply isn't necessary. That's all I'm saying. Just trying to save the inexperienced or newb reader from wastage, if that's important. And it usually is.

If you've modified something that warrants additional cooling solutions, then good luck and God bless, and there's no shortage of experienced experts to share their proven solutions. If someone's bored out, cammed up and edel'd over and complains of overheating, I have nothing to say, and will observe from the sidelines.

But if you're stock - or at least close enough - and have a cooling problem, then there's others like me who know better than to go off on a tangent with non-stock solutions, and will make recommendations accordingly.

[grand_wag_85]

One thing with these rigs especially on the highway there is a lot of dead air under the hood. A stock fan shroud and hood louvers or holes seem to help out big time.

[the original Honcho]

Originally Posted by Mr Carts

Waterpump outlet to heater hose 185F, then after passing thru the heater core mounted next to the headlight, I took the temp about a foot from the inlet on the intake manifold 145F (I used a piece of copper tubing and ran it on the inner fender then to heater hose for the inlet on intake manifold).

Way to go! A 40* difference is pretty big!

Today my '91 Grand was 193 at the water outlet and 161.5 at the water pump inlet. That was late this afternoon after about an hour of 4wheeling in sugar sand and some dunes.