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04-09-2012, 07:34 PM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jan 30, 2009
Location: Franklin, NC
Posts: 2,496
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Trying to do the rag joint deleTe
But can't get the stupid rag joint off!
__________________
Justin
'72 J2000 360 4bbl T18 D20
'96 ZJ
"It's all about the fun-per-gallon vs the miles-per-gallon"-- Gamber68
Sponsored by Jake's Full-Size Jeep Junkyard
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04-09-2012, 07:50 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Feb 22, 2011
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 460
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I had the grille, radiator condenser and trans cooler off when I removed my rag joint. I had to pound it out with a 4lb mini sledge.
Then it took just as much hammering to get the XJ shaft installed.
Everything went together and has been working much better than the sloppy rag joint.
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88 Grand Wag:
Razor Grille
Rusty's 4" spring lift
BJs HD 1" shackles
31" M/Ts
Holley 4160, 600cfm
T.F.I.
Warn Hubs
SOLID Diff cover
999 X-member/T-case Skid
Rag joint delete
Last edited by shaggywaggy88 : 04-09-2012 at 07:55 PM.
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04-09-2012, 07:52 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2011
Location: White Bluff,TN
Posts: 420
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I did it too. Soak the joints in penetrating oil overnight then get to banging! Lol
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91 Grand Wagoneer
AMC 360 / Torqueflight 727 / NPM 229
Dana 44 front and rear
6" Rustys Offroad suspension lift
BJ's quick disconnects
BJ's PreRunner front bumper with winch plate
fenders trimmed
35x12.50x15's Maxxis Bighorn mudders
Rhino grill
http://www.tnjeeps.com/
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04-09-2012, 08:24 PM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jan 30, 2009
Location: Franklin, NC
Posts: 2,496
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I got it! I'm dumb. Didn't realize I needed the bolt all the way out. Pretty much popped off! I cannot get the XJ shaft on, though. It actually seems a tad bit smaller  did you guys run into that problem? Now this should prolly go to tech.
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Justin
'72 J2000 360 4bbl T18 D20
'96 ZJ
"It's all about the fun-per-gallon vs the miles-per-gallon"-- Gamber68
Sponsored by Jake's Full-Size Jeep Junkyard
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04-09-2012, 08:32 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2011
Location: White Bluff,TN
Posts: 420
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If you're doing it to the rig in your signature then I'm not sure if it's the same as the GW. I know some years were different but I'm not sure which years were different. It may not work with the gearbox on your truck. I know it sucks to be that far into a job to find out it doesn't work. Then again I could be wrong and it does work just gotta get the splines lines up correctly and check it. If you can get some pics up it might help.
__________________
91 Grand Wagoneer
AMC 360 / Torqueflight 727 / NPM 229
Dana 44 front and rear
6" Rustys Offroad suspension lift
BJ's quick disconnects
BJ's PreRunner front bumper with winch plate
fenders trimmed
35x12.50x15's Maxxis Bighorn mudders
Rhino grill
http://www.tnjeeps.com/
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04-09-2012, 08:36 PM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jan 30, 2009
Location: Franklin, NC
Posts: 2,496
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I checked and it is def different than the GW shaft. I think the gear box shaft dealie is bigger. Sucks. I almost got out the grinder because the flat spot and the bolt should in theory hold everything together, but might cause trouble down the road. Not worth it. My 40 year old rag joint is actually in great shape. It'll take me 15 minutes to get it back together. Anyone want an XJ shaft?
__________________
Justin
'72 J2000 360 4bbl T18 D20
'96 ZJ
"It's all about the fun-per-gallon vs the miles-per-gallon"-- Gamber68
Sponsored by Jake's Full-Size Jeep Junkyard
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04-09-2012, 09:44 PM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jan 30, 2009
Location: Franklin, NC
Posts: 2,496
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Well, the old stuff is back in *sigh* oh well, I guess my truck is just to awwwshummm for all these new fangled contraptions. 
__________________
Justin
'72 J2000 360 4bbl T18 D20
'96 ZJ
"It's all about the fun-per-gallon vs the miles-per-gallon"-- Gamber68
Sponsored by Jake's Full-Size Jeep Junkyard
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04-09-2012, 11:36 PM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: Aug 08, 2010
Location: Maryland/ Williamsport, PA
Posts: 2,932
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You can get new rag joint assembly's for less then 20 bucks. They worked for a long time so may not be worth the hassle. Got mine from rock auto.
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Austin
1991 Hunter Green Grand Wagoneer
5.9 2bbl-727-NP229-TFI-30x9.5 Firestone M/T's-Brush Guard-tire mount
SOON: 4350 and cast iron intake
Others:
-1994 Baby Grand
-2000 XJ cherokee on Tons
-1953 REO M35A2 6x6
-1955 Willys Pickup
Quote:
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Originally Posted by rustywagoneers_com
i am not an addict, i can stop anytime.
i dont have a problem, you people have the problem.
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04-10-2012, 09:58 AM
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Join Date: Jun 08, 2005
Location: Land of froot loops and coconuts
Posts: 5,124
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by austinaubinoe
You can get new rag joint assembly's for less then 20 bucks. They worked for a long time so may not be worth the hassle. Got mine from rock auto.
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I think you missed the goal of the poster.
Title is rag joint delete, as in get rid of it.
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Tony
'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected
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04-10-2012, 10:35 AM
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Join Date: Aug 17, 2002
Location: Bethel, NC
Posts: 5,408
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I spent a decent amount of coin on a Flaming River u-joint and it's definitely take nthe abuse. Not saying you'll need anything that beef but it'll definitely get rid of the rag.
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Need a Willys Pickup to restore
Places to Wheel in the Southeast
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Originally Posted by Topgun2mo
I would think boxing would limit the amount the frame could flex over obstacles which I think IMO would be a bad thing. I would think you would want all the articulation possible.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by johnny019
I'm not saying lockers don't improve the performance of your rig, just that they're overrated.
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04-10-2012, 10:02 PM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: Feb 12, 2011
Location: Lynnwood, wa
Posts: 2,783
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There is one fat spline you have to line up on some of these to get them to work.
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04-12-2012, 05:54 AM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jan 30, 2009
Location: Franklin, NC
Posts: 2,496
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Yeah, the whole splined shaft was bigger. There was no getting it on. I'm gonna keep a lookout for another donor for the earlier rigs. I wonder if a ZJ shaft would work. Some look different.
__________________
Justin
'72 J2000 360 4bbl T18 D20
'96 ZJ
"It's all about the fun-per-gallon vs the miles-per-gallon"-- Gamber68
Sponsored by Jake's Full-Size Jeep Junkyard
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04-12-2012, 08:52 PM
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Join Date: Jan 21, 2001
Location: Twain Harte, California
Posts: 13,765
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I am curious why you are getting rid of the rag joint? It is there for a reason, and is not prone to having any issues when in good condition.
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Full Size Jeep Network
1981 J10 AMC 258 with TFI and Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with a BJ's Aluminum Radiator, T176, NP208, D44/M23 with 4.56 gears and Detroit Locker, 6" lift, 33x12.50 TSL's, BJ's Offroad Rear Bumper.
1975 Cherokee *Sold*
1989 XJ Limited *Sold*
2005 KJ Limited 3.7, 42RLE, NP242
2008 JK 3.8, 6sp, NP241, 2.5", 33's, 4.56's
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04-13-2012, 07:54 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 17, 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 62
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dumpy
Yeah, the whole splined shaft was bigger. There was no getting it on. I'm gonna keep a lookout for another donor for the earlier rigs.
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I recently had the opposite problem while trying to do the rag joint delete. I found a steering shaft (pictured) off a '76 wag with manual steering. The spline count at the gear box shaft was different than my '82 wag with power steering, so I ordered a new coupler from a vendor that will not be named. The coupler I received was for a splined shaft that was bigger than the one on my wag.
After suffering through condescension and ignorance from said vendor that did not know more than what the parts catalog listed, I did some research. Most Wagoneers and J10s came with a Saginaw box with a 3/4" input shaft while the J20s came with a 13/16" input shaft. Of course those rules are not set in stone. It sounds like you have the 13/16" version.
I decided it was not worth my time to continue to wrangle with the vendor and kicked down the cash for the Borgeson. So I have a steering shaft set-up that I think would work for you. I am into it for $65, so I'd let it go for that price plus shipping if you want. Since this isn't a for sale thread I'll post up some details in a separate thread.
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04-13-2012, 10:13 PM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Jan 30, 2009
Location: Franklin, NC
Posts: 2,496
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Stuka
I am curious why you are getting rid of the rag joint? It is there for a reason, and is not prone to having any issues when in good condition.
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It works fine, but a solid ujoint style seems like it would last longer. I wanted to see what the hype is was about. Guess I'll never know. I'm also wondering if I have the larger (j20) box in mine already, being that the splined shaft was too big. Being that 72 was a kinda weird (let's try this) year, I wouldn't doubt it a bit, even thought I have a 1/2 ton.
__________________
Justin
'72 J2000 360 4bbl T18 D20
'96 ZJ
"It's all about the fun-per-gallon vs the miles-per-gallon"-- Gamber68
Sponsored by Jake's Full-Size Jeep Junkyard
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04-14-2012, 11:46 AM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: Feb 12, 2011
Location: Lynnwood, wa
Posts: 2,783
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Not being the OEM owner means it could've been swapped in too. You should be able to measure the bottom cap on your box. Yours has the steel adapter/lowering plate between the frame and box?

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05-05-2012, 09:55 AM
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i wish i would have seen this thread. this morning i went to the junkyard for some stuff and kept striking out. i figured id grab an xj steering joint and get rid of the rag joint. liek ive read about a few times on here. i start pounding to get the old shaft out of my 78 wag and it doesnt really want to come out so i figured before i beat the snot out of this thing and let me make sure the xj joint fits my box. nope. not happening.that was a waste of a morning and 20 bucks. not to mention the rag joint came apart when i took it apart. now im pissed.
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