Fabbing a Traction Bar for the Honcho (anti-wrap bar)

[Blake]

I've been 'wheeling the old J10 since the build about 2 years ago. In that time I've broken several rear Ubolts, cracked the welds on the spring perches and mangled the perches. It doesn't have to much wheel hop, but it does have some.

Planning to drive it to Moab next month and want to minimize breakage and maximize traction.

So after reading lots and lots of threads on the topic of Traction Bars, here is what I've come up with so far.

All I really need is to get a stick of 1.5" OD 1" ID DOM, then start welding it on.

What do you guys think so far?

Note the use of a stock FSJ front shackle

[68glad]

That looks PIMP compared to my bare bones one. The only thing I'd change is on the bracket that gets welded to the axle housing. Make the notch at the bottom edge of the bracket rather than the middle. The bottom link is going to hang down below the axle otherwise. No sence in that unless it's necessary.

[Stuka]

I think you will be surprised how much of a difference it makes. The 4 link in my JK has totally spoiled me when it comes to rear suspension. If I had the cash I would convert my J10 over to coils in an instant.

I think your springs will thank you also for the anti-wrap bar.

[csuengr]

Don't think it's going to do much good where you currently have it located.

[jeeping1974]

How much of an offset do you have from the middle of that crossmember? It looks like you'll be right at the edge of the pumpkin if not on it. (could just be how the pics look too.)

[Blake]

Well I've decided to go ahead and yank out the entire rear axle assembly and replace the leaf spring perches. Those perches are in bad shape.

I think I will pull the truck forward out of the garage, remove the axle, then roll the axle into the garage with the tires still on it. Leave the truck out in the driveway for a couple of days on big jack stands

[Blake]

Originally Posted by jeeping1974

How much of an offset do you have from the middle of that crossmember? It looks like you'll be right at the edge of the pumpkin if not on it. (could just be how the pics look too.)

None of that stuff is welded on. I just fabbed it up and snapped a pic.

I can mount that anywhere. I've read that it's best to put a traction bar on the passenger side...

[ChevyJoe]

I've seen them primarily on the passenger side but always have read that you want to put them as close to the center of the axle as possible.

Also, you want your lower link or bar just a hair lower than the drive shaft so rocks hit it before they hit the drive shaft. With the axle mount you have shown, you can afford to move it up a bit so it doesn't drag

[ElkyRacer]

Any reason for using joints on the axle end? Seems like overkill to me as the front joint is going to do all the flexing. You could get away with cheaper bushings on the axle end.

[Blake]

I'm using those Johnny Joints 'cause I already had them laying around. They are a little small to use for control arms, so I'm using 'em on the traction bar.

I just removed the entire rear axle assembly and ground off the old leaf spring perches as I'm replacing them. Will also paint the entire rear end.

[ElkyRacer]

Nothing wrong with using what you have laying around!

[Blake]

I ended up changing designs halfway through. I used a piece of 1.5" OD 1" ID DOM for the main lower bar and a 1" ID 1.25" OD tube for the upper bar. Also replaced both rear spring perches and painted the entire rear assembly.

Here is a pic from last night prior to painting everything.

[jeeping1974]

Looks good! What did you use for new spring perches?

Only reason I ask is a friend of mine used some square stock and had it stick out a little further than most to help with keeping the springs from wrapping as much. At least that's what he plan is.

[Blake]

Originally Posted by jeeping1974

Looks good! What did you use for new spring perches?

Only reason I ask is a friend of mine used some square stock and had it stick out a little further than most to help with keeping the springs from wrapping as much. At least that's what he plan is.

I used a pair of spring perches that I got from a local 4x4 shop. They were only 5" long, but that is all they had in stock. Made in USA!

[j20brett]

Blake do you run stock springs in front or lift springs?

[Blake]

Originally Posted by j20brett

Blake do you run stock springs in front or lift springs?

2" BJ's springs up front. stock 63" chevy springs out back

[j20brett]

Originally Posted by Blake

2" BJ's springs up front. stock 63" chevy springs out back

Sweet, was hoping you would say that! Trying to get my build figured out.

[Blake]

Well I finally finished the traction bar! It's actually been 99% complete for the past couple of weeks, but I was too lazy to drill the final 6 holes into the frame where the crossbeam bolts on. Sure would have been easier to just weld it on, but I wanted the option of removing it. I also painted most the rear assembly. Oh and I fabbed up a quick bracket to carry a spare optima.

I really wish I could lay some better looking welds. I know they are strong and made good penetration, just not the prettiest.

Enjoy!

[Tigger4X]

When I first saw the title to your thread I cringed with thoughts of all the monster anti-wrap bars I have seen on big ol f@rds and chebbys.

I must say your take on it makes so much more sense than all the other "professional" kits. IMHO I'll take strong "ugly" welds over the useless bolt on junk out there.


YOURS FREAKIN RAWKS!!

[Blake]

Originally Posted by Tigger4X

When I first saw the title to your thread I cringed with thoughts of all the monster anti-wrap bars I have seen on big ol f@rds and chebbys.

I must say your take on it makes so much more sense than all the other "professional" kits. IMHO I'll take strong "ugly" welds over the useless bolt on junk out there.


YOURS FREAKIN RAWKS!!

Thanks!

It definitely makes it 'tighter' when taking off from a stop. I haven't had a chance to 'wheel it yet though. It will get a good workout this week at Moab!