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10-28-2011, 02:15 PM
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New Member
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Join Date: Oct 28, 2011
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 2
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Woody Buying Advice?
I'll be honest upfront: complete newbie here!
I'm looking into buying a Wagoneer to satisfy reasons for both myself and my wife. I'm looking for something to tinker with and don't like the little foreign job she drives now, and she doesn't really want to drive something else, except of course those classy woody Wagoneers!
Anyway, I've started looking at some for sale in the area and thought I'd go to the source for advice on what to be looking for. Are there specific things that always seem to cause problems? Telltale places to check for rust? Engine or transmission to avoid? I'm completely new to the FSJ world, and very much appreciate any advice anyone can provide!
Thanks for putting up with a new guy who wants to learn and get involved!
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10-28-2011, 02:43 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 15, 2007
Location: Ridgway, PA
Posts: 66
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WELCOME!
Things that I look for when buying:
Rust/rotten frame near the gas tank
Rust/rotten floor pans
360 is a good engine, just not very powerful
Transmissions are typical Chrysler junk and will fail
You can count on having electrical issues (my taillights don't work again)
But most of all, they are a ton of fun! 
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10-28-2011, 02:44 PM
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Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
Posts: 18,986
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The Tech Library has a decent guide.
http://www.ifsja.org/tech/misc/buyfaq.html
Looking for a woody sounds like you're looking for a later cushy fluffed up model. A lot depends on untended use. Daily family driver or toy build platform? I prefer the simplicity non fluff Kaiser era. w/o all the electrical things to go wrong. I'm old but can still roll up a window and adjust a seat. For a DD I'd suggest the later AMC era. None ever were perfectly equipped from the factory for everyone but none came from the factory with inherently bad equip either. Ya want cushy go later models. Decide what you want then pick an era that meets your needs and buy the best stock condition one you can afford.
Forget buying dirt cheap and "I'll fix it up and save money" These are hobby cars not collector cars. Any money you put into them you'll eat.
Buy it once.
__________________
joe
"when we were children, we are reborn every morning,but when we are older, a little of us dies every night, killed by mortgages, bills, dry rot, rising damp. When we travel, though, we are children again."
-Geoff Hill
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10-28-2011, 02:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 12, 2002
Location: ansonia ct. 06401
Posts: 5,527
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Quote:
Transmissions are typical Chrysler junk and will fail
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i disagree completly.the 727 is a strong trans,hell they put em behind everything from sixes to hemis.any trans that is at least 20 years old can have a problem when not cared for.the other trans jeep used pre 80 was the th400 another strong trans..
now to op ?'s
remember these trucks are at least 20 years old so any rubber parts will be hard and cracking.hoses of all types from fuel to vacumesteering will be worn out if not kept up on.
the biggest problem will be rust of course,mostly in floors rockers,rear quarters and the frame on drivers side and rear cross member
__________________
85 gw 215k and still going
castrated(de-wooded)360 2" espo springs 31x10.5
89 gw,free,almost legal
She can dance a Cajun rhythm,Jump like a Willys in four wheel drive,
the world is full of kings and queens who blind your eyes and steal your dreams
"Our militarized "law enforcement" has become the standing army our founders feared"
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10-28-2011, 03:08 PM
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New Member
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Join Date: Oct 28, 2011
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 2
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Thank you for the responses already! A couple clarifying answers:
I am looking for a daily driver. I don't mind doing a little work, and I plan to upkeep whatever I buy, but I'm not looking for a 'sits in the garage' hobby.
As for the cushiness, don't care a thing about power windows, power seats, power this or that. Hand cranking is great with me! However, so far most of the listings I've seen have included all that stuff...
I'm trying to look around the site at other similar posts and one common theme I keep seeing is buy one that's in great condition if you can afford it because anything you need to fix is going to drain money. I don't have an unlimited budget by any means, but I plan to at least try to find one that doesn't need a whole lot of work. Just trying to know what to look for!
Thanks again!
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10-28-2011, 03:12 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 08, 2010
Location: Boston
Posts: 234
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MPG
If you want a daily driver, keep in mind the average mpg of a wagoneer.....~10 mpg. That can hurt the wallet, depending on how fat it is.
Good luck.
__________________
1989 Grand Wagoneer
Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
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10-28-2011, 03:22 PM
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Gear Head
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Join Date: Mar 28, 2005
Location: Austin Texas USA
Posts: 717
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Seemer
If you want a daily driver, keep in mind the average mpg of a wagoneer.....~10 mpg. That can hurt the wallet, depending on how fat it is.
Good luck.
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Hey, I think you got my Jeep  . Same year, same color and same gas mileage  .
__________________
2001 Subaru Outback 3.0 - Mamas assault vehicle
1989 Grand Wagoneer - DD and Boat Hauler
1985 Mercury 115hp inline 6 outboard
1989 Champion 184DCB - Bass boat
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10-29-2011, 06:35 AM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Dec 19, 2000
Location: Philadelphia, Pa., USA
Posts: 1,317
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That's my typical milage too, but on the highway it gets 14 and even 15mpg if driving conditions are good.
For the differences from year to year:
Look for some real old posts by BobBarry. That and the articles in the tech library section of www.ifsja.org
Rust areas vary a little with the years and model. On a plastic fuel tank model ('78? on up) there is usually frame rust where the coffin shaped 'skid plate' bolts to it. That's probably the worst repair to deal with in my opinion.
Next most concern IMO is the frame to body mounts, especially the rear two.
Body rust is well body rust. You know your own willingness to deal with it or not.
Loose tilt steering wheel - Common for a few years in the 1980s - you can do a search on that. Not hard to fix, takes a bit of time and patience.
Rear window - both the power and the manual versions have their faults. Usually easier to fix than it first seems. I would not let this get in the way of a purchase.
Emmissions Controls - This is the most challenging mechanical puzzle, but once you put all the parts back, clean up the carb, reset the timing its amazing how well these things run. Easiest controls are the mid 70s and they only get more complicated each year. Most challenging physically is removing the Air tubes and banjo bolts - fragile!
Which FSJ to look for?
Lots and lots of options, so decide on what is important to you. Manual Transmission? Full locking wheels? Full time 4WD? Headrests and 3 point seat belts? 2 door or 4 door? Wide track? Sunroof? rear 'barn doors'? (just kidding, these are rare rare rare)
__________________
'85 Grand Wagoneer
360 727auto-trany, NP229
body by beer (PO) 
carries wood inside
no "wood" outside
My other car is a fish
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10-29-2011, 10:17 AM
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Dragin Az
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Join Date: Oct 17, 2003
Location: Chino Valley, Arizona
Posts: 7,948
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Welcome to the land of empty pockets and unfinished projects...
I cant really say more then what has been, but my wife has an '88 gw, and I have a '75 J-20 that we DD. If you are determined, it can be done. 
I drive 46 miles round trip to work and burn through a $20 bill daily.
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10-29-2011, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 8,883
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I think if you're looking for a Wagoneer, you'll find many more with all the power accessories than you'll find with more spartan appointments. All of the electrical and power gadgets are a liability typically, so I think your instincts are right about not wanting them. But I wouldn't worry about that too much ... instead I'd buy the one in best condition that I could find and afford.
Generally the Wagoneer, and later the Grand Wagoneer (same car - just renamed) are the upscale version of these vehicles. The full-size Cherokee, both 2-door and 4-door, was the more downscale version of this platform.
As mentioned, they suffer badly from rust - from '80 on, check the frame under the driver's door (get down there and poke it with a screwdriver), and always look at the floors under the carpets. Mechanical issues are usually easier to address for amateur mechanics, so I'd jump at one that has a beautiful interior and rust-free body but has a rod knock, and pass on its sister that runs great but has rust issues.
__________________
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
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