Okay, losing MIND, I need help please.

[Comancheap]

Okay I know it is not the Wagoneers fault I am an idiot on this "new" of a vehicle and I also know it is not the Wagoneers fault our family business is going down in flames after almost 40 years and that I have had NO pay in 4 MONTHS. We do have some sales out there if people will pay their bills and until then (even that will only make a dent in what company needs) I have the company credit card if needed to get some more parts.

Enough about where me and my bad attitude are though. Here is what is going on with the wagoneer after throwing allot of money at it.

The wagoneer is now my company vehicle so it is to be driven everyday.Tuesday night the carbon monoxide fumes were so bad (only had drivers window down as it was cold and didn't know "it was that bad") sitting at the #@*% traffic light getting pounded with freaking fumes (thing almost always stalls out everytime I come to a stop, "loading up" "POS" "fuel starvation" "EGR"?or what ever I don't know these vehicles my newest car is a 1970)

So I am sitting at this light when all of a sudden I cannot "understand" the #@!* traffic lights! Cars are whizzing this way and that and I feel like a 12 year old kid that knows nothing about traffic lights or laws dumped into this main intersection. I started to panic but pulled it together enough to operate and once I was moving again the fumes got diluted. Still suffering the symptoms of the fumes but now I am REAL ILL with everything in my general situation and trying to calm down before I attack the Jeep with expanding foam,duct tape,saws-all and flex pipe.

My wife had me take the van this morning to drop off the kids and when I got back I noticed the Jeeps glovebox was open so stuck my head in there to close it and (yes I know cabon monoxide has no smell) the inside of the Jeep smelled like a rank *$! gas can and exhaust. Really could not believe how strong it was and that I have been driving for over a month in it.

Okay, as I know it here is what is going on or has been done. All polution control crap installed on a 1981 360 2bbl is in place EXCEPT the catalytic convertor which was totally shot and has been replaced with staright pipe into original muffler(can that orig. muffler soak up the foul cat exhaust?)

This rig has a rebuilt motor and carb on it and it slightly pings through most ranges but not real bad until pushed to pass. Like I said it will stall most times when I come to a stop for anything more than 30 seconds, it reaks to high heaven,gas mileage is around 10MPG, have not pulled a plug or attempted to set timing,adjust carb etc because again I don't know this rig.If it was a 1970 455 big block I'd be out grinning, boiling the rear hides, as it is I am dazed and confused and frying what is left of my poor abused brain.

Oh, now that two brain cells bumped together so I could remember this large issue, the lower 1/4 panel and wheelwell are all rusted out right at the factory tailpipe exit leading straight into my interior.Issue two of that is all the floors on that side (passenger side where cat and pipe runs) were rotted and have been replaced with fabricated panels.Good tight fit but not sealed, or welded in any form (obviously that needs to be done).

Sorry to dump all this on you guys but I can't afford this and I don't want to end up passed out,plowed into some innocent family or tree or whatever.

I really appreciate ANY help you can suggest.Love my Wagoneer but this is REAL bad timing and I am under it big time and have very little to work with so can't experiment doing parts switching till I get lucky.

Everything I have read seems to point to the EGR but it is over $100 so again no experimenting, I need someone with experience with these rigs

[710 Burner]

Sniff some more oxygen. I still don't know what the issue is other than you have a big hole in the fender where exhaust is entering the vehicle... and you should check your fuel tank vent line to the vapor canister for cracks.

[Comancheap]

Yes other then the tail pipe basically plumbed into my interior, it is cutting off when I have to stop over about 30 seconds, it doesn't idle it more of surges back and forth, it pings at light load and increases with load applied sorry to bury the issues in all my other mess

[FallonJeeper]

I agree, fix/plug the quarter panel, maybe add an exhaust tip. Do a tune up, which includes timing and carburetor check/adjustment. Don't spend any money you don't need to.

[jbentley]

From the story, here is my $.02:
1. Holes in the panels = exhaust in the cab Plain and simple, this MUST be fixed and sealed.
2. If you have holes in the panels, you probably have holes in the exhaust, check and repair. If repairs are required, it would be wise to move/extend the exhaust exit to a location less likely to pull back in to the cab, such as under the back bumper.. Further away from the openings in your cab, the less likely to come back in (or as much).
3. Mufflers are for sound, not fumes, removing the cats removed any ability to "burn off" excess fuel in the exhaust. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them when the $$ allows for it.
4. Reeking of gas in one situation, barely idling in another and running lean in another, points to carb problems. Hopefully, your familiar with carbs as you indicate post 80's aren't your thing with vehicles.... You can get a Motorcraft 2150/2100 rebuild kit for 'bout $25-$30 at Napa, RockAuto.com, etc. Its not a waste of money and a good thing to do. Search the forums for rebuild instructions. Even though the kit comes with instructions, a member here wrote a smash up article on the rebuild and tuning procedure.
5. Check your fuel lines, fill lines and vent line for any cracks, breaks leaks. Its not likely, but you don't to leave this world too soon in a big ball of fire.

[Comancheap]

I am ready to do just that. Waiting for my head to quit banging a little bit more (got a bad dose of those fumes yesterday and that crap attaches to your blood keeping oxygen from getting in according to poison control center).

It is going to get fixed one way or the other today

[Headhoncho]

For the pinging, check the vacuum advance on the distributor. Make sure the advance diaphram is working and make sure there is vacuum being delivered to it. It helped greatly on our Wag after I fixed it.



JR

[Comancheap]

okay making my plans here. First of all I found a universal cat 10" x 14" Body overall with a 2.25"/2.25" (in and out ID) with no "air or sensor hookups" which I believe is correct for ours? Priced "starting at $52.40.

Replace the cat and cut off everything behind it (old muffler and tailpipe) install a new muffler about a foot back from the cat and for now flex pipe the exhaust ANYWHERE but near holes.

I don't have a vaccum guage to check advance and if the EGR is bad no one so far stocks it (factory direct order) $106.70 from Napa with discount (plus 5 bucks shipping)

Expandable foam the holes, check all those old rubber vac hoses

[710 Burner]

So does the carb appear to be wet with fuel anywhere before, during, or after running the vehicle?

[Comancheap]

okay I have jussssssssssssssssssssssssssst about had it.

Everything I have TRIED to do today I was missing the ONE critical part. I get my floor jack, the handle is gone, I find my new can of "All Metal" but the hardener is missing, I try the compressor to blow out the 1/4 panel trash and the breaker is kicking out, I go to Napa for more hardener and some guy gets in front of me doing TWENTY MILES AN HOUR till I finally just stop and let him get way down the road so I don't blow my stack, I still catch up with him as he is making his %$#@&^! 10 minute turn so I gun it by him to let him know he needs to AT LEAST do the speed limit and when I let of the gas my %$#! original muffler blows when the wagon backfires Sjunded like a shotgun so that guy will probably think I took a shot at him, kind of hope he does.

Ride back was even worse as the school buses were out

Sorry guys I have just about had enough of everything, the heck with all of it

[Comancheap]

No Sir the carb is not wet at any time

[jbentley]

Now backfiring!?

Rebuild carb, check vacuum advance... Post up a pic of the vacuum lines going from the vacuum advance to anywhere else.. It may be as simple as a straight line from the advance to either ported vacuum on the carb or manifold vacuum on the intake.... or... The complex spider web of vacuum that jeep put in using CTO and Non-Linear Valves...

While a vacuum gauge would be handy, it's not necessary to ensure vacuum is getting to the advance unit; unless you want to test the vacuum advance unit itself, then yeah, you'll need it.

Remember that adding the Cat will only help burn up excess fuel in the exhaust, which will only help with the fuel smell and actually create MORE CO, so keep your focus on:
Tuning the carb
Verifying the advance
Sealing the cab (or moving the exhaust exit away from cab openings)

If you keep feeling the symptoms of CO poisoning, find a place to stop, get out and get some fresh air.

[orangecherokee]

do you have the rear (tailgate) window down?

[OneMoreJeepPlease]

I would really keep it simple for now. First start with the carb overhaul. Second check the vacuum advance, you don't have to have any fancy test equipment just pop the top off the distributer, unhook the advace hose from its vacuum source and just suck though it. If you see the advance arm move inside the distributer then it is working for now, if not buy a new distributer and swap out the advance. I dont know why but all of my local parts stores will sell me a reman distributer for +/- $30.00, but if you want just the advance it is +/- $40.00 - $60.00. After the carb rebuild and distributer check I would retard the timing a little then plug off every vacuum line and just run the distributer off of direct vacuum or the ported vacuum on the carb. What ever works best for you. There are a lot of write ups on diconecting the vacuum lines on here and how to disable the EGR valve. If you have no vehicle inspections in your area it can be as simple as a metel plate that covers the hole, and then remove the vacuum lines. The motor dose not need it as long as you retime it to not ping. I have a 86 and I don't run one on mine at all. It is a lot cheaper and you never have to worry about vacuum leaks. Start with that then move onto what others have said, check your fuel lines to make sure they aren't leaking and rework your exhaust. I wouldn't put a cat on it as they can actualy be harmfull if your engine is running to rich as they will burn out. Start with simple and cheap and work your way back.

[Comancheap]

Okay I will have to read these suggestions further to respond "burning day light and just came in to check for more suggestions to try . I got a large portion of the worst offending hole covered and waiting for that to dry to build off of.So far I recreated the missing 10" of wheelwell lip with an expanded metal("slotted" to allow it to be formed) and epoxy. Since I was at Napa did their oil change special so changed out the oil (needed it).

The vaccum advance is working (can here it clicking when suck on line) and I puulled plug number one and here is a picture of it as soon as I got it out (no tampering with it in other words)

[Comancheap]

here is pic. wait exceeding forum quota it says

[Comancheap]

okay guess I need to go delete post with pictures on other threads? I have resized the sparkplug picture to a matchbook and it still is "exceeding forum quota"

[Comancheap]

Plug is not wet,no oil, very dry,porcelin is white, no pitting

[Rich88]

When EGR is disabled, peak cylinder temps go up and leads to pinging. So what many people do is back off on timing. But in doing so, performance and mpg is sacrificed. This is just not an opinion and theory, I experienced this. Stock 360s are designed to run optimally with properly operating EGR.

This does not apply to engines modified and tuned by those who know what they're doing and can afford to do so.

[Comancheap]

Okay I plugged the distrib vac. line and threw a timing light on this rig. Took a little while to figure out where the timing tab was and then the timing mark itself had no paint in it so not sure how my buddy timed it last time when he replaced the distrib and cam gear that got wiped out on a long dry start without priming the oil pump first (was my fault I knew better on not priming it first).

Anyhow the after marking the timing mark was no where on the scale.If it was a clock it was probably at 7.Is dark here now so couldn't read the timing tab numbers but after turning the distrib at least an inch the mark was close to the middle and bump started fine.

Time to go police up all my junk now and then hit the shower, covered in old oil,epoxy,POR-15,grease,paint,sweat,hot sauce(lunch)lacquer thinner and exhaust fumes in other words the perfect complete day

Can't believe my wife hasn't said HONEY, you need to take a shower WOOoooooooo!