Buying a '68 Wagoneer - Need input

[jeffingeorgia]

I looked at a '68 Wagoneer today. I liked it.

Body is 95% rust free.
Dana 44 axles.
Buick Dauntless 350 that performed well.
The transmission, hubs and transfer case are operational.
32" tires with spring UNDER 4" lift which is fine for me.
Power steering and power brakes.

Some concerns:
Brakes. I was VERY uncomfortable with the stopping ability. Are there any disk brake aftermarket and or conversions available?

Steering at 40-50 mph was marginal... Steering radius was awful.
The Dana 44 is a "closed knuckle" system that I am unfamiliar with - are these problematic?

Weather seals on all 4 doors are in really bad shape. Owner says $450 for the DIY kit - seems high???

Headliner needs replacing as does the carpet but these are minor issues for me or are they costly???

Rear window inop. Owner says never worked for him and "new" replacement motor is around $200.

Gas gauge reads 1/4 to 3/4 only.

Price for the Wagoneer is very reasonable but that is a relative matter...

My intent for this ride is 60% pavement queen, 25% trails, 15% other. I love older 60's and 70s trucks and the FSJs seem to appeal to me.

Any help you offer will be greatly appreciated!!!


Thanks , Jeff

[Dumpy]

Welcome! Closed knuckles are fine as long as they are maintained, but they are what cause your turning radius to be that of a semi. Headliner shouldn't be too bad to get done, and carpet kits an be found at BJsoffroad.com. Call advance for the tailgate glass motor. The one for my former 77 was around 80 bucks. If the brakes are horrible, your booster is probably shot. My 72 pickup doesn't have a booster, but stops well, just gotta mash harder. BJs also has a disc conversion kit for around $600. Check out the vendors section for IFSJA member discount. Where in Georgia are you? There are three pullapart yards around ATL and there are a couple of wags. Two at the south location just got scrapped with perfect seals. I grabbed the vent window seals for 2 bucks. Might wanna check them out. If you are interested in a trip, you can always make the pilgrimage to Jakes Full Size Jeep Junkyard in Burnsville, NC for parts.

[jeffingeorgia]

Thanks for the link - $625 w/o discount. If I pull the trigger on this 68 Wagoneer, the disk conversion will be at the top of the buy list.

I am now in Washington State, just north of Seattle. A loooong ways away from South Georgia (Brunswick). These folks up here are alright - they just talk funny though....

Anybody else want to weigh in on this thread please do as I like the FSJ - just want to try and buy the right one the first time around.

[Rich88]

Originally Posted by jeffingeorgia

I looked at a '68 Wagoneer today. I liked it.
Body is 95% rust free.

THAT part right there is enough justification to get out the checkbook.

(We can walk you thru everything else as it comes.)

[KaiserMan]

The front axle (if stock) isn't a Dana 44. It's a Dana 27A.

You can't buy correct door seals for any 73 or older FSJ. You can get them for 74+ which will work for your 68, but won't fit 100% right. $450 is pretty close to what four preformed seals will cost you.

Turning radius is wider with a closed knuckle axle, you will get used to it. Mine was over 50' on my 71 J2000.

Carpets are cheap. Under $200 for the complete passengers area. More if you want the cargo area, which wouldn't be correct for yours any way.

You can put together a disc brake swap with a combo of junkyard and new parts for a couple of hundred dollars. Google JP closed knuckle disc brake swap. They a have a good article for a CJ (same as your Wag as far as this swap is concerned) with a parts list.

In proper working order the drums on these stop pretty well. You might want to just go through your system and make sure they are adjusted properly before giving up on them.

[Dumpy]

Originally Posted by KaiserMan

Turning radius is wider with a closed knuckle axle, you will get used to it. Mine was over 50' on my 71 J2000.

That's about what mine is.

[newtojeeps]

buy it if it is reasonably priced. If you get bored with it or think you got in over your head, a 68 with little rust is resellible. these are fun and capable rigs.

[joe]

Assuming it's been taken care of and in good condition I wouldn't worry about the D27 axle unless you are one to get one tire in the air spinning it up and then dropping it on a dry rock while it's still spinning. For DDing and general messin around in the woods use the stock axle will be fine if maintained. The stock brakes can be rebuilt and work very well if up to spec. Most of my 4WD's have old been closed knuckle Danas and I've never broken one but I don't rock crawl either. If your gonna play with the hard core folks spend/build accordingly.

[drlocke]

What KaiserMan says. The drum brakes are perfectly fine as long as they are properly maintained and the vacuum booster is working the way it should. You should make sure there is no punkin juice getting past worn seals to foul your brake linings.

I also have a '68 Wagoneer, but powered with the 327 Vigilante.

[Stuka]

If you are comparing the braking ability to that of a new car, yes they are going to be horrible. Anything from the 60-70's will be.

The drum brakes are fine for cruising, but you will get some major brake fade if you live in a mountainous area.

And it should be noted power brakes were not standard until 1976. So there is a possibility that you dont have power brakes. Which still work fine, you just need to put more pressure on the peddle. My '75 Cherokee came with non-power drum brakes, but I was still able to lock up the tires (assuming the brakes were not real hot). The only other major downside was when I went through a river or something, it makes the brakes non-functional until they dry out.

[Tornado230]

Buy a newer rig with front discs.
Did you happen to check out the wiring?
No fuse block, only in-line fuses.

[RedBeard2]

Welcome! Hmmm....Talk funny up here in the Great Northwest

[drlocke]

As for funny talkin...as a kid I was transplanted from Columbus, GA to the Boston area. But in my case their accent didn't sound alien to me, as my dad was from Boston and never lost the accent the whole time he lived down South.

As for the wiring in the older Kaiser FSJs yes there are no fuse blocks but the wiring is really not all that complicated. Corrosion at terminal points is going to be a chief issue, along with possible chafing of insulation. You may need to pull the instrument cluster (clips that push in--two on top, two on bottom behind cluster at edge) and do some resoldering to address intermittant panel lighting and such...

The heater controller assembly to the left of the cluster may need to be cleaned and lubricated, and all vacuum lines checked and replaced as needed, and make sure the vacuum reservoir (ball) under the hood is hooked up properly and working. All heater air shutters are pneumatic, while the temperature control is a direct cable.