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  #1  
Old 03-28-2010, 12:16 PM
zacswoody zacswoody is offline
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Join Date: Mar 06, 2010
Location: Raleigh NC
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Question More Suspension Advice Needed

I know there are a lot of questions out there regarding suspensions and lifts but I couldn't quite find the answers to my questions.

Background: I have an 87 white Wagoneer all original. She has the sag wag affect. Only 68k original miles. I haven't had her long and this is my first one.

Goals:
1. I'd like to put a larger tire on the truck (probably 31-10.50).
2. I'd like to do a 2-4 inch lift.
3. She will be towing a 23ft. boat and doing some off-roading (multipurpose rig).

Questions and Concerns:
1. I am concerned that if I do add-a-leaf to all 4, plus new Rancho shocks, my ride will still be lower in the back end (sag wag).

2. Will the add-a-leaf spring addition be enough lift for larger tires when towing?

3. If I do one of the BJ's 4 inch lift kits, do I need to buy all of the add-ons they recommend? Recommended items are: extended brake lines, track bar drop-down brackets, poly. shackle bushings, drop pitman arm.
note: The BJ's 4in. kit is very expensive with all of the add-ons.

4. Is there a better, more cost affective way to achieve my goals keeping in mind that I want this done right. I don't want to have to come back later because I cut corners.

Thanks ofr your thoughts and advice,
Zac
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  #2  
Old 03-28-2010, 01:23 PM
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Mark Wilde Mark Wilde is offline
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I think BJ's still sells a 2" lift kit...no bells or whistles needed for that, and it may still use stock shocks too.

I went the 4" route, used stock everything except shocks (relocation bracket for the rear brake line), took my track bars off completely and have been very happy with it.
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90 Grand Wagoneer, 401/727/229, TFI upgrade, MC4350 4V, Edelbrock Performer cam, All-Aluminum Radiator, Razor Conversion, 4" Rusty's all-spring, 31x10.50 BFG TA/KO's...much planned, little time/money, thus she's a PipeDream!
Status: Up and running, but needs attention....
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  #3  
Old 03-28-2010, 01:27 PM
zacswoody zacswoody is offline
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Location: Raleigh NC
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Do you have any pics. I would like to see when you get a chance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Wilde
I think BJ's still sells a 2" lift kit...no bells or whistles needed for that, and it may still use stock shocks too.

I went the 4" route, used stock everything except shocks (relocation bracket for the rear brake line), took my track bars off completely and have been very happy with it.
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2010, 01:28 PM
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MuleRider MuleRider is offline
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Location: Las Cruces
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Check out Rough Country website, they have a 3in lift. I would recommend following manufacture instructions and get the add-ons if they call for it. Makes installing the lift much easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zacswoody
I know there are a lot of questions out there regarding suspensions and lifts but I couldn't quite find the answers to my questions.

Background: I have an 87 white Wagoneer all original. She has the sag wag affect. Only 68k original miles. I haven't had her long and this is my first one.

Goals:
1. I'd like to put a larger tire on the truck (probably 31-10.50).
2. I'd like to do a 2-4 inch lift.
3. She will be towing a 23ft. boat and doing some off-roading (multipurpose rig).

Questions and Concerns:
1. I am concerned that if I do add-a-leaf to all 4, plus new Rancho shocks, my ride will still be lower in the back end (sag wag).

2. Will the add-a-leaf spring addition be enough lift for larger tires when towing?

3. If I do one of the BJ's 4 inch lift kits, do I need to buy all of the add-ons they recommend? Recommended items are: extended brake lines, track bar drop-down brackets, poly. shackle bushings, drop pitman arm.
note: The BJ's 4in. kit is very expensive with all of the add-ons.

4. Is there a better, more cost affective way to achieve my goals keeping in mind that I want this done right. I don't want to have to come back later because I cut corners.

Thanks ofr your thoughts and advice,
Zac
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  #5  
Old 03-28-2010, 02:20 PM
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leostevo leostevo is offline
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Join Date: Jan 27, 2009
Location: Okaloosa County, FL
Posts: 325
When I did my lift I was initially considering the 2" because my wife is tiny. Then I figured she could just deal with it. The 4" lift puts the truck exactly where I think it should have been built. I got mine through Rusty's. All springs isn't priced terribly and you get the shocks with the kit with the option to upgrade them. I bought the stainless brake lines but they didn't fit. (wasted that money) The rear line will fit with a relocation bracket and the front lines didn't present any problems for me with the front axle hanging and turning to the max each way. If you go 4", then I think the drop pitman arm is a must. I also paid a local shop 50 bucks to put it on. Money well spent.

I don't have any experience with add-a-leaf but I would think that they would just wear out faster. If it is a single leaf that raises your truck back up, then all your truck's weight is on that leaf. Again, just my logic here; but that would make a stiff ride until it squanted back down to where you were in the first place. Temporary fix.

I also got the relocation brackets from BJs and the rear bracket is useless. I spent several hours on 2 different days messing with that thing. The rear axle simply will not work. The front axle however went on fine and made the steering more responsive/stiffer. Just be prepared with a vise and big hammer to get the bracket to fit inside the axle perch.

Minus the DPA and relocation brackets, I installed the full kit in a single day by myself. It took me all day but I did the rear springs twice. (yep, they can go on backwards; until you want to attach the axle) I also replaced my master cylinder, readjusted my E-brake and installed a new steering dampner.
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1990 Grand Wagoneer "Daddy Wagon"

AMC360/TF727/NP229

Edelbrock Performer Intake, Headers, Cam, 1406 Carb, Mallory HEI. No smog. Rusty's 4" all springs. '89 GW wheels, custom painted and wrapped in Maxxis Big Horn 31x10.50, dual 2.25" exhaust outside the frame rails.
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  #6  
Old 03-28-2010, 02:46 PM
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Captain Obvious Captain Obvious is offline
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Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 115
People, keep posting opinions, I am in pretty much the exact position. I need to fix the left rear (it drags when the rear suspension loads up) but have a number of higher priority fixes first. It is a project, not a daily briver, but will be used for camping, towing bikes and light-duty off roading.
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  #7  
Old 03-28-2010, 04:34 PM
zacswoody zacswoody is offline
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Join Date: Mar 06, 2010
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 10
It seems hard to believe you could do that in a day by yourself. I'm fairly certain it will take me a little more time. I do have a helping hand which will help.

What do you think about doing a 1 inch body lift with the BJ's 2 inch suspension lift? I may regret it later but for now I don't want to go with the 4 inch suspension lift. I would like the jeep to keep it's original look... with a little better clearance.
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  #8  
Old 03-28-2010, 04:47 PM
zacswoody zacswoody is offline
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Join Date: Mar 06, 2010
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 10
The Rough Country 3 inch lift is springs and U bolts. I guess what I am having a hard time understanding is why that lift doesn't recommend the drop pitman arm and other additions that BJ's suggests.

Are there any other items needed for the Rough Country Lift? I'm going to replace the shocks and have heard really good things about the Rancho RS9000XL's. If I can swing the $$$.
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  #9  
Old 03-29-2010, 02:06 AM
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leostevo leostevo is offline
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Join Date: Jan 27, 2009
Location: Okaloosa County, FL
Posts: 325
Here is the simple way to figure out the DPA. Go out and look at the steering components of your truck. Stock, the linkage that connects the (I don't know the proper names) wheels to the pitman arm is fairly horizontal. When you install a suspension lift, it obviously changes the angle with the high end at the pitman arm.

After the lift (without a DPA):
When the suspension travels up it will also try to force the pitman arm to the left. Because the pitman arm is held stationary, the wheels will turn right. *bump steer* The more lift, the worse it gets.

To avoid bumpsteer your pitman arm should be dropped down comparable to your lift.

I think a 2" lift is insignificant enough to get by with the stock pitman arm; over that and I suggest a DPA. I have seen people with 6" lifts and stock pitman arms but I sure don't want to be riding in the next lane on a crappy road.

My only answer for the difference between Rough Country and BJ's is Rough Country wants to minimize price in order to sell product.

I haven't done any body lift and only know a little about them. I know that at a certain point you will have issues with the radiator fan shroud hitting the fan, gas tank fill tube, and everything else that runs from the body to the frame. 1" shouldn't be a big deal though, just keep those things in mind as you are lifting the body off the frame.

The Rancho shocks are supposed to be the cats meow. My suggestion is to get a size which would allow just a little more lift if you think you will go there. They sure don't give them away.
__________________
1990 Grand Wagoneer "Daddy Wagon"

AMC360/TF727/NP229

Edelbrock Performer Intake, Headers, Cam, 1406 Carb, Mallory HEI. No smog. Rusty's 4" all springs. '89 GW wheels, custom painted and wrapped in Maxxis Big Horn 31x10.50, dual 2.25" exhaust outside the frame rails.
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  #10  
Old 03-29-2010, 04:26 PM
zacswoody zacswoody is offline
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Location: Raleigh NC
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Thanks again for the advice. Definately will do a DPA. I'd rather do it right than cheap. Now I just need to figure out how to pay for everything.
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  #11  
Old 03-29-2010, 09:47 PM
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billyj7175 billyj7175 is offline
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Having made this mistake more than once in my lifetime...

Save yourself the headache, and do it right the first time. I can't tell you how many times I've spent more time and more money re-doing something only because I tried to 'cheap-out' on the first go round.

X2 on the needing the dropped pitman arm for a 4" lift...

Body lifts, done right, take quite a while and usually require some minimal fabricating of brackets to get everything hooked back up correctly.

It's very possible to install a suspension lift in one day...having a impact wrench makes it a LOT easier and quicker. A torch is even quicker...

Here's some tips:

About 3-4 days before, get a big can of PB Blaster (or equivalent) and spray all of the U-bolt nuts, shackle nuts, shock attachment bolts/nuts, trackbar bolts/nuts and the pitman arm nut. Do this once a day.

You also have to be careful with the (I think) the forward mount bolt on the left, rear spring. The nut is inaccessible and tacked to keep it from turning....
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727 & 229 are rebuilt, but the 360 is in an incalculable number of pieces, sporadically disseminated all over the garage...
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