Rockwell questions...

ARouser · #1 10-21-2009, 09:15 PM

Hey guys,

This is a question for the guys running rocks... I'm in process of getting the top loaders under the jeep.
My questions are:
What are some common problems, ie clearance issues.
Ill be boxing the frame and adding at least one cross member in the rear portion of the frame.
I will be running leaf springs with anti-wrap bars temporarily at which point ill be linking it.
I'm moving the front axle forward with chevy springs and my engine sits a bit higher with the poly mounts.
Ill be running 44s.
I am aware of the body clearance issue, I'm more concerned with drivetrain clearance and frame issues.
What other problems should i be looking for?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Andrew

mcjeep80 · #2 10-23-2009, 11:12 AM

i am almost done with my rockwell cherokee. i boxed the frame also. from what i have come up with, if you run your rear axle in the same place as the old one and pinion brakes. the rear brake looks like it will hit the crossmember unless it is on the drive shaft side. i am runing 63s inboarded with the rear axle in the stock location. you will also have to run the rear drive shaft on the passenger side or move your tank to the rear.
in the front i have NEW 2" lift springs with an added leaf and chevy shackles. run backwards to move the axle forward some. with the 360 i think i had 5" from the oil pan to the diff. i am not to comfortable with that.
i have also realized those big u-joints on the rocks have a crappy operating angle. almost forgot. if you are recentering your own wheels, watch the backspacing. with my hubs in and the centers as far out as i could put them the tires hit the steering arm. so i went from 84" wide to 94"

good luck and post some pics

maby one day i will post some of mine in the offroad section

Coachgreen · #3 10-23-2009, 03:05 PM

You guys have rocks........................LUCKY!!

ARouser · #4 10-23-2009, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcjeep80

i am almost done with my rockwell cherokee. i boxed the frame also. from what i have come up with, if you run your rear axle in the same place as the old one and pinion brakes. the rear brake looks like it will hit the crossmember unless it is on the drive shaft side. i am runing 63s inboarded with the rear axle in the stock location. you will also have to run the rear drive shaft on the passenger side or move your tank to the rear.
in the front i have NEW 2" lift springs with an added leaf and chevy shackles. run backwards to move the axle forward some. with the 360 i think i had 5" from the oil pan to the diff. i am not to comfortable with that.
i have also realized those big u-joints on the rocks have a crappy operating angle. almost forgot. if you are recentering your own wheels, watch the backspacing. with my hubs in and the centers as far out as i could put them the tires hit the steering arm. so i went from 84" wide to 94"

good luck and post some pics

maby one day i will post some of mine in the offroad section

i am currently running a fuel cell so the tank clearance isnt an issue, also i am running MRW beadlock wheels.

Im not too worried about the cross member i can notch if necessary.
I am looking at running 5 1/2 " chevy 63" springs up front, i have 3 inch lift springs out back, with monster bump stops to keep that dif outta the pan.

thanks for the reply!
Andrew

Slick Willie · #5 10-23-2009, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ARouser

i am currently running a fuel cell so the tank clearance isnt an issue, also i am running MRW beadlock wheels.

Im not too worried about the cross member i can notch if necessary.
I am looking at running 5 1/2 " chevy 63" springs up front, i have 3 inch lift springs out back, with monster bump stops to keep that dif outta the pan.

thanks for the reply!
Andrew

Holy crap, are you going to make a front bumper with perches that stick out front an extra foot?

ARouser · #6 10-23-2009, 03:51 PM

errr 5 1/2" chevy lift springs up front.

maybe i am :-p...haha just got the front and rear lengths confused...

thanks for pointing that out though

mcjeep80 · #7 10-24-2009, 08:09 PM

just a guess but i figure your 5 1/2" chevy springs will be pretty close to what i am running. with the stock chevrolet springs being reversed arched to begin with. my buddies 4"lift springs on his burb look just a little less arched than my front springs i have now. sounds like you it figured out for the most part so get to building

ARouser · #8 10-24-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcjeep80

sounds like you it figured out for the most part so get to building

haha, im tryin bud! just want to get everything in order before i tear out my perfectly good axles and down my rig for an unknown amount of time...again

shadowjeep · #9 10-25-2009, 10:20 AM

the down time is what really sucks. i have the stock axles ripped out of mine and have been measuring for links and collecting parts. waiting sucks.

Sambo · #10 10-25-2009, 11:10 AM

lol i am gonna start collecting parts now,since the 2nd helpin of the fullsize enchilada is done with

Stuka · #11 10-25-2009, 12:45 PM

Desert Beast ran 4" FSJ lift springs in his chero with rocks before he linked it. 4" chero springs are equal to 6" chevy springs as I recall. He runs a 502, and don't recall him having clearance issues. I am sure he will speak up though.

ARouser · #12 10-25-2009, 02:22 PM

I'm looking at the chevy springs for up front for the axle relocation...to get those 2" of forward movement.

However, i am leaning more and more to linking it from the get-go every day.

rockrat · #13 10-26-2009, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadowjeep

the down time is what really sucks. i have the stock axles ripped out of mine and have been measuring for links and collecting parts. waiting sucks.

I hear ya there, I'm at year now..... I'm going with 4 links up front on mine with a wishbone in the rear. I'll be running propane so the tank issue is a moot point. Plans are for the rear axle to moved back 4 inches and the front axle 4 inches. With the 500, I'm able to select a variety of oil pans for clearence. As far as center braces, move as needed, frame is being boxed as we speak.

shadowjeep · #14 12-03-2009, 01:13 PM

have you decided what to do with the front frame crossmember? im thinking it will have to go, or extend the front to clear the top loader.

8379qtj10 · #15 12-03-2009, 08:00 PM

Were are you getting your axles??
White Owl want 950.00 Front(Ujoint or B&C) / 350.00 Rear

NC4x4 has a great rockwell thread...Arron871 had a M715 on Rockwell's that handled nice as i recall.

This might not be the place but....I would put some $$ in the 60's that you already have. Many people are running 44"s with hot LSx enignes and having good luck. Plus with Rocks you gain at least 350-500lbs on a already heavy rig.

ARouser · #16 12-03-2009, 10:45 PM

thanks, appreciate the input but im not all that concerned with the weight.

I am not making a competition rock crawler. I am making a stout and different rig that I enjoy and not break.

I am fully aware of the strength of a well built 60. Also the price tag. After i would have done what i had proposed to the 60s i could have bought the rocks with the parts including the full psc hydraulic steering.

I already have the rocks and they are almost done being modified. Unfortunately most all of the work has been out sourced to a local shop due me being part of that new Obama afghan plan, think next week or so

sooo anyways fact of the matter is I wanted a FSJ on rocks so guess what

PS, everyone is doing tons these days

For those who care...

Rocks are mohawked with ProMud Metal Works covers
New boots and weld on boot gaurds
Welded front and rear
DIY4x pinion brakes
Full PSC hydraulic steering kit made for the rocks, psc arms

pics if i get a chance before i leave otherwise you may have to stay tuned til july when i post them up