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  #1  
Old 09-17-2009, 08:01 PM
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vintagetrks vintagetrks is offline
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Ammeter Bypass

Alright I need some answers about this ammeter bypass thing please. Why and how do I bypass the ammeter in my 76 waggy. The ammeter in my rig works good and I actually prefer it over a volt meter because I can tell how much my alt is actually working. But I keep hearing bypass your ammeter ASAP. So whats the deal why do I need to bypass it. Also how do I bypass it? I really would like to keep it working if possible.
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:20 PM
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if i remember right since the amperage is going through the meter if any connection gets loose---and they do it has a habit of melting down frying wires and sometimes taking the whole jeep with it--- just disconnect the two leads and solder them together

big alternators and loose connections ---very bad combo
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its a jeep thing i dont understand either
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  #3  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:30 PM
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littlebuck23 littlebuck23 is offline
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I didn't bypass mine. I, like you mentioned, like seeing witch way the current is flowing or if the alt is doing its job and keeping the batt voltage level so the current flow is 0.

There is a write up to replace the amp meter with a disassembled volt meter and it turned out really well. its in the archived i believe.

I could see it being a problem if you had a high resistance connection to the studs across the shunt of the meter. Also if one had a problem and was doing lots of cranking and finally got her to fire there would be lots of charging current going thu the meter. That could get pretty hot. And as mentioned above Iv read some stories about rigs catching on fire. Keeping the connections clean of dirt and corrosion is the best defense. I scrubbed mine up so all surfaces were nice and shiny to provide the lowest resistance connection possible.
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1970 Kaiser Wagoneer -SOLD (currently getting built by new owner)
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  #4  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:35 PM
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asphaltrockdweller asphaltrockdweller is offline
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So is it just those crappy little speed nuts that come loose?
If so.................... Why not just install locking nuts instead, and problem fixed?

I am with the OP, I like seeing what way my current is flowing.
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  #5  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:39 PM
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littlebuck23 littlebuck23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asphaltrockdweller
So is it just those crappy little speed nuts that come loose?
If so.................... Why not just install locking nuts instead, and problem fixed?

I am with the OP, I like seeing what way my current is flowing.


loose are defiantly no good but having dirty connections is going to generate heat for sure.
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1970 Kaiser Wagoneer -SOLD (currently getting built by new owner)
Build thread-http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=103447
1979 Cherokee Chief WT 360. SOLD
1977 Cherokee Chief WT Sport 401. SOLD
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  #6  
Old 09-17-2009, 11:24 PM
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letank letank is offline
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The main issue is that the ammeter is getting old: 30 to 24 year old for most of those riggs, most parts are designed to survive past the warranty period... Remember that all the current is going thru that device... so 30 amps on charge .... after a while the device will fail. You crank.. the engine start.... then dies..... Some FSJ did not even come with fusible links.... so this is preventive..... the easy way is to connect both wires to the same post on the ammeter.... make sure that you disconnect the battery before playing w the wires. the nicer way is to add a big fuse called a ANL fuse... at any marine shop.

for more details

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/archi...p/t-32823.html
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  #7  
Old 09-18-2009, 05:07 AM
Joe Guilbeau Joe Guilbeau is offline
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http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=101061&page=2&highlight=Ammeter+b ypass
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  #8  
Old 09-18-2009, 02:05 PM
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vintagetrks vintagetrks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letank
The main issue is that the ammeter is getting old: 30 to 24 year old for most of those riggs, most parts are designed to survive past the warranty period... Remember that all the current is going thru that device... so 30 amps on charge .... after a while the device will fail. You crank.. the engine start.... then dies..... Some FSJ did not even come with fusible links.... so this is preventive..... the easy way is to connect both wires to the same post on the ammeter.... make sure that you disconnect the battery before playing w the wires. the nicer way is to add a big fuse called a ANL fuse... at any marine shop.

for more details

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/archi...p/t-32823.html

Mine is old. I just wonder why I'm not hearing about getting a new ammeter from BJ's which is what I think I'm going to do. I really like the ammeter so if it's just an age thing I think I'll get the new one from BJ's and clean up my connections real good. That should make my ammeter worry free would'nt ya say?
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04 Jeep Wrangler "Lil Ninja" 32's 2in lift swaybar disconnects
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  #9  
Old 09-18-2009, 02:10 PM
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ricdiculous ricdiculous is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagetrks
Mine is old. I just wonder why I'm not hearing about getting a new ammeter from BJ's which is what I think I'm going to do. I really like the ammeter so if it's just an age thing I think I'll get the new one from BJ's and clean up my connections real good. That should make my ammeter worry free would'nt ya say?

is the ammeter the gauge that powers the rest of the cluster? i forget.
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  #10  
Old 09-18-2009, 04:58 PM
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vintagetrks vintagetrks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricdiculous
is the ammeter the gauge that powers the rest of the cluster? i forget.

Not as far as I know. On my 76 there is one large cluster of wires that plugs into a special plug that I believe powers the guges with the exception of the ammeter. I'm pretty sure the ammeter is seperate from the rest of the guages and gets it's power from the alt.
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04 Jeep Wrangler "Lil Ninja" 32's 2in lift swaybar disconnects
90 Grand Wagoneer "Big Mama"
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  #11  
Old 09-18-2009, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagetrks
Not as far as I know. On my 76 there is one large cluster of wires that plugs into a special plug that I believe powers the guges with the exception of the ammeter. I'm pretty sure the ammeter is seperate from the rest of the guages and gets it's power from the alt.

i know on my '84 the power comes into the cluster through one particular gauge and if it goes, every gauge on the cluster goes. i know because when i got the jeep, the cluster wasn't working and this was the reason.

pretty sure it was the ammeter. and i guess maybe the whole thing pulls power from the alt? not sure, but i can look in my shop book.
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  #12  
Old 09-19-2009, 08:05 AM
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vintagetrks vintagetrks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricdiculous
i know on my '84 the power comes into the cluster through one particular gauge and if it goes, every gauge on the cluster goes. i know because when i got the jeep, the cluster wasn't working and this was the reason.

pretty sure it was the ammeter. and i guess maybe the whole thing pulls power from the alt? not sure, but i can look in my shop book.

If the guage cluster was powered by the ammeter would'nt bypassing it make the rest of the cluster lose power?
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04 Jeep Wrangler "Lil Ninja" 32's 2in lift swaybar disconnects
90 Grand Wagoneer "Big Mama"
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  #13  
Old 09-19-2009, 08:09 AM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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Quote:
i know on my '84 the power comes into the cluster through one particular gauge and if it goes,


it's the temp guage. has the volt regulator in it. powers the fuel and oil guage.


i think the ammeter scare is largely overrated. i like them. i've yet to see a fsj that had symptoms of heat around the amp guage.

i leave em hooked up,but make sure the connections are clean and tight.
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2009, 08:34 AM
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fulsizjeep fulsizjeep is offline
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I forget the details but the power to some other accessories goes through the amp gauge. That power line has nothing to do with the rest of the instrument cluster. I had never seen one that was burnt until I pulled the cluster out of the Cherokee 401 donor 2 weeks ago. A lot of the wiring under the hood had insulation melted off of it. This can be caused by a variety of things especially adding on high wattage lights and sound systems if they use power from that feed. You can also move one lug to the other post if you really want to bypass it. The circuit board is burnt and maybe some leads too. The brown at the bottom is from heat. The front of the gauge does not look burnt but is loose and flopping around in the cluster. I don't think this is common enough event to warrant bypassing the gauge but it would be ugly to have a dash fire from this. It may not be a bad idea to at least inspect the connections for peace of mind.

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  #15  
Old 09-19-2009, 02:10 PM
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araknid75 araknid75 is offline
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heres a writeup on the bypass with pics

Here is a write-up I did on the bypass with pics

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...hlight=ammeter
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  #16  
Old 09-19-2009, 03:46 PM
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vintagetrks vintagetrks is offline
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I'm in agreement with those who use the ammeters. I'll clean my connections very good. I don't have any funky wiring going on under the hood and I don't have a huge stereo system or High Voltage Headlights just a pretty stock wiring system thats in pretty good shape. So I should be fine running it. I like seeing how many amps are being put to my battery or are being drawn by my accesories. I'll take an ammeter over a volt meter any day.
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04 Jeep Wrangler "Lil Ninja" 32's 2in lift swaybar disconnects
90 Grand Wagoneer "Big Mama"
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  #17  
Old 09-19-2009, 03:57 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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try to avoid using the alternator to bring back a dead battery,like after a jump start. if you have to,keep the revs low. keeps excessive current from the ammeter.

i run a fusible link at the output of the alternator.
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Ristows right.................again,




Quote:
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... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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  #18  
Old 09-19-2009, 04:11 PM
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PlasticBoob PlasticBoob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagetrks
I don't have any funky wiring going on under the hood and I don't have a huge stereo system or High Voltage Headlights just a pretty stock wiring system thats in pretty good shape. So I should be fine running it. I like seeing how many amps are being put to my battery or are being drawn by my accesories. I'll take an ammeter over a volt meter any day.

Watch out! I've had it happen on two stock FSJs. When I bought my Cherokee, it was already too late - I had a ball of melted wire and plastic under the dash.

My friend's '78 J-10 had a meltdown while we were driving. After that, we realized that the dash had already been replaced with an early '80s model, and upon closer inspection, there was a previous fire and meltdown that almost took out the whole truck. Some dipwad didn't fix the problem, they just replaced the dash!

I say shunt it, ditch it, do whatever you have to do if you want to keep an ammeter...JUST DON'T LEAVE IT STOCK!
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  #19  
Old 09-19-2009, 05:55 PM
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vintagetrks vintagetrks is offline
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I will at some point in the near future put a 100 amp breaker in the loop to prevent it getting overloaded.
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04 Jeep Wrangler "Lil Ninja" 32's 2in lift swaybar disconnects
90 Grand Wagoneer "Big Mama"
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  #20  
Old 09-20-2009, 07:50 AM
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fire by ammeter posts always make me so paranoid that my truck is burning to the ground as i read them.
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