POR15, Chassis Saver or.....?

[jackz4000]

Any advice on what product to use to help stop RUST on my '90 stock GW up here in Vermont. I don't have any rust-through...yet and it is mainly some surface rust appearing on the undercarriage, leaf springs, tow hitch, wheel wells etc. Replacing the skid plate in about 10 days too.

Looking for a product where I can wirebush off any loose rust and apply. A friend has had good results with POR15 and I'm interested in the results others have had with RUST. Thanks in advance , Jack

[tgreese]

I've used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator with good results. It's competitive with POR-15, and UV resistant.

These rust paints seem to be "moisture cured urethane" with various proprietary fillers. http://www.tfhrc.gov/pubrds/novdec98/laboratory.htm There are several boutique brands available specifically for home garage use, but I suspect you can find similar products through the major paint suppliers like Devoe, Ben-Moore, Sherwin-Williams, etc.

[Eugene 1]

chassis saver works Por 15 is good too! just make sure you follow the directions

[87 j10]

I was in the market for por15 or some other alternative and asked the auto paint shop locally what the difference was between por15 and chassis saver. Their explanation was that por15 is 143.00 a gal. and the chassis saver is under 100.00. They said both materials are VERY comparable but that the chassis saver is the "walmart" version of the 2. Hope that helps alittle.
Mark

[purduesd]

I did my floorboards with the POR15 process, Overall pretty happy with the results. The POR top coat did have some issues sticking in a couple places.

I followed the directions to the T. I would try something else the next time. For the undercarriage the POR system will be a royal PITA. I have heard good things about eastwood's rust encapsulator... never used it though.

[JRB89GW]

I have used both and they both seem to work well. I had some POR 15 left over so I put some on the bottom of my mower deck to see if it would help stop it from rusting away and it worked great. Just don't get it on anything you don't want it on especially yourself because it's real hard to get off.

[twmattox]

I know there are a lot of us who look for good "rust proofing" for our Scramblers. I have decided to start investigating them and compiling a list of what I have found out. Please if you notice any errors in my notes...reply with corrections or additional information. In addition, if you find out any additional information...please post.

Please note that I am in no way affiliated with any of these companies nor am I specifically endorsing any specific product...merely relaying on what I have found and creating a place for all of us to share thoughts about them.

I have found 7 rust resistant coatings:

No More Rust (PM Industries)
-Primer approx $96/gallon
-Chassis black paint approx $96/gallon
-AG111 (other colors) approx $114/gallon

Silver + Chassis Black listed as 20-25 year protection
Silver + AG111 11,400 hour salt spray with minor rust noted (via ASTM B-117)
Urethane with aluminum dust impregnation

Zero Rust
-Zero Rust Primer approx $59/gallon

336 hour salt spray rust through (via ASTM B-117)
metallic phenolic modified alkyd coating

POR 15
-Approx $143/gallon

1000 hour salt spray no change (via ASTM B-117)
note this product is not UV stable

Rust Encapsulator (Eastwoods)
-Approx $150/gallon

I could not find any specs on the product...but they do claim to be "better" than POR

Chassis Saver (Magnet Paint)
-Approx $97.50/gallon

high solids paint/underbody coating
note this product is not UV stable
I could not find any specs on the product

Rust Destroyer
-Approx $85/gallon (2006 cost)

300 hour salt spray no change (via AST< B-117)
indicates 5-year guarantee

Rust Bullet
-Rust Bullet approx $143/gallon
-Black Shell approx $165/gallon

I could not find any specs on the product

[Songman]

Rust Bullet is about the best on the market if you can afford it. We use it on bus conversions and it is hard as nails!

[Chuck Brown]

Originally Posted by JRB89GW

I have used both and they both seem to work well. I had some POR 15 left over so I put some on the bottom of my mower deck to see if it would help stop it from rusting away and it worked great. Just don't get it on anything you don't want it on especially yourself because it's real hard to get off.

x2, I accidentally got a drop about the size of my pinky nail on the palm of my hand, and it took a week of daily brillo pad treatment in the shower before I was able to get most of it off. Tip for the day, dont take your gloves off until the can is capped off and put away on the shelf for the night!

I could be wrong, but the way it covers, I dont think youre going to need a whole gallon to do your frame and wheel wells. I did the top and bottom of my skid plate and front clip frame rails and barely even used the top half inch off a full quart. I bought 2 quarts and dont even think Im going to go through both.

Chuck Brown

[funhog]

I have a friend who races at Bonneville. They use a marine epoxy "paint" on the cars.

[Sian09]

I used POR15 on the chassis of my old CJ7. I just wired wheeled it and brushed it on. It worked great and held up. When I do my J10 I'll probably use it again. I wished they'd come in a rattle can!

[jackz4000]

Thanks everyone for your feedback and yeah I did forget to mention Eastwood which seems like a very good product. There are a bunch of products out there. I've been doing a little research on the internet and it seems like most of these "rust encapsulators" have the same ingredients but some seem to perform better than others. And some are pricier than others.

Seems to me that there are some marine products that ships and boats use which might also work quite well, especially in my climate. I won't be getting to this job until the summer so I'll keep checking. I don't want to do this twice.

It would probably be a great if this board had a section devoted to FSJ bodies and body parts, rust, and painting etc with some good "stickys"---because certainly there is alot of knowledge and hands-on experience on this board and it would be easier for members to find that stuff.

[JeepinPete]

I've been using Rust Bullet on my Cherokee. Check out their website. They have scientifically tested against the competition and the results are pretty clear. I can't attest to it long term durability since I've only been using it for two years. The areas I have painted haven't rusted

As far as application, it is dirt simple. Clean off the oil, nock off the scale rust, and apply the paint. After a couple hours, apply a second coat. Wear gloves, use disposable brushes, and have a large area ready to paint. New fresh out of the can RB is thin and applies nicely. Since it is a moisture cure product, the paint will thicken in the can once it has been opened. Leave it long enough and the can will solidify. Also be certain to apply it evenly. Thick spots of paint will foam much like Gorilla glue. Once the second coat has cured, I top coat it with flat black Rustoleum since I do not care for the silver color of the stuff.

[jackz4000]

I dug this out of the archives. Interesting read for anyone thinking about rust. http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/archi...hp/t-3886.html .

[newtojeeps]

I used the por 15 on replacement and the rest of the floor in my 80 Cherokee. I covered it with Duraliner, seems to bee holding up ok. Sanded part of the hood on my 66 track and used the por 15 on it and it oxidized and is cracking do to no UV resistance.

[kram]

I just finished a complete body paint on my j-10 using KBS Coatings "RustSeal" (similar to POR-15). I followed their three step process to a T. Stripped the whole body down to steel first, then cleaned it (with their "AquaClean" cleanser), etched it (with their "rust blast") and applied two coats to the whole rig. I'm impressed with the results actually. My intention is not to use it as a finish coat forever, but it looks pretty good for a sealant/primer coat. Eventually it will provide a solid base for body repair and a spray finish. but for $200 in materials, a few brushes and rollers, a gallon of Aircraft stripper, $100 worth of abrasive discs for the old grinder, and about 50 hours of work. She's sealed and should never rust again.

I have some before and after pics I can post later if anyone is interested.

[Charlie_B]

Im on my second quart of POR doing a semi-resto on my rig. So far I love it. Prepped new metal and rusty metal just suck it right up. Over paint and old undercoating, it doesnt do so well. We will see how it holds up to this winter's weather here in ME. Im doing the backside of all body panels that can be feasibly done and top/bottom of old and new floor pans. On the parts that will see UV, Ive just been topcoating with spray paint within the 2-3 hour period and it seems to hold up fine.

x2 about not even thinking about touching it without gloves on. A couple times Ive got everything setup without thinking before actually painting. And the stuff will not come off before a day or 3.