BJ's flow kooler high flow aluminum water pump

[jlewis]

I just bought a flow kooler high flow aluminum water pump from BJ's off-road. What do you all think about it? I didn't by the suggested theromstat since I just replaced mine about three months ago. My truck is a daily driver and only sees 4-wheel drive when ever it snows. Will that be an issue for helping to keep my jeep cool. Let me know what you think and how it has done for you. thanks.

[Chevelleguy]

If you just used a standard replacement thermostat, go ahead and change it to the recommended one. Most auto parts stores carry the Robert Shaw high flow thermostat in one form or another (repackaged and renamed).

[lkmarsh]

How is your radiator? Got a shroud? Fan clutch OK? A killer pump won't compensate for other components not doing their jobs. Nor will a low-temp thermostat. Four-core and a six-blade flex got my 350 mostly under control. Can't sit in traffic yet - no shroud. Yet.

[j20brett]

I run the flowcooler water pump and original thermostat. I also run a taurus fan and recently cleaned out radiator. I have yet to see the coolant temps reach full op temp with the fan on low.

[billyrb]

the Robert Shaw thermostat is recommended as it's set up for the 2x flow that the Flow Kooler pump puts out (that's why it's recommended). Otherwise, the stock thermostat (although it works) becomes more of a restriction with the increased flow of the pump.

[The PIG Smith]

Is this the super special aluminum water pump that needs extra or double gaskets in order to fit correctly?

[Ristow]

that 401 i tore down had a cast iron one. i thought it was kind of a joke. a waterpump with a piece of sheetmetal riveted to the impeller. the rivets scored up the cover too.

i think if you have a good radiator,and a properly running engine these fancy band aids aren't needed in most instances.

[Chevelleguy]

That is all Flow Kooler does is rivet a disc to the back of the impeller, effectively creating a closed impeller out of an open one. This will increase the efficiency of the pump, however, since the pump was not designed that way to begin with, it may cause cavitation.

I think it is all just a sales gimmick on Flow Kooler's part, but who can blame them for trying to make money.

[jlewis]

When I opened the box it has two gaskets. do I need to put both of them on? Do I need to put RTV between everthing or just along the the waterpump and mounting area? I actually don't have a fan shroud. Does that really make that much of a difference? I also changed my radiator to a stock one in January.

[jlewis]

I am planning to install the water pump this weekend are you supposed to use both gaskets?

[Elliott]

Didn't you read the directions. Yes, and after it's installed you also need to turn the impeller by hand to verify it's not hitting the timing cover... if it does hit you need more gasket in there.

[jlewis]

Do I need to put rtv between all gaskets? Thanks for the help.

[Chevelleguy]

I wouldn't.

Yes, the fan shroud makes that much of a difference.

[Ristow]

the only place you use RTV on these engines is making end seals for the intake manifolds. rtv sucks.

clean and degrease both mating surfaces with brake cleaner,then use copper coat on both sides of the gasket.

[mark j]

I bought a Signature Series high flow aluminum water pump which I believe was a rebranded flowcooler. It too had the disc spot welded to the back of the impeller. I put double gaskets on it as I noticed it would not turn freely without two gaskets. I used the Right Stuff on all the surfaces with no leaks. Just by dumb luck I checked it at about 1000 miles on the fresh rebuild and I could not turn the water pump impeller by hand. The disk was in the process of coming off and rubing on the timing cover. I'm not sure what happened as it turned freely when I torqued it down at the beginning. I don't know if the gaskets or gasket material compressed over time even more as I ran the engine. I pried the disc off by hand and put the water pump back on and it works fine. I have an Edelbrock water pump waiting to go on to replace it though. Be sure to check that it turns freely after you have run it for a while.

[jlewis]

Shoud I use three gaskets or just put the two on and see what happens?

[djongeward]

First know it will be tight, so know what it feels like to turn it. Dry mount it first with one gasket and see if it hits as you turn it. By dry mounting, I mean you don't use any gasket seal and just screw in, hand tight, a few bolts. Push on the pump hard and turn to see if it will contact. I needed to use 2 gaskets with mine. I use "Aviation Gasket Sealer". I apply a thin amount to all surfaces that will mate with a gasket, including the gaskets. If your using more than one gasket, put it between them. I think it provides extra insurance. I use this stuff on everything, oil pump gasket, thermostat housing gasket, intake gasket, carb, oil pan, etc. Everywhere you don't use RTV. It usually comes in a white bottle with a brush in the lid. Let it get tacky and then put it all together. This stuff helps to keep gaskets in place during installation. I also use it in place of plumbers dope or Teflon on fluid fittings. Be sure you use an anti seize product on the bolts, or your going to break a bolt next time you take it apart.

[Elliott]

The flow kooler comes with one regular (OEM like) gasket and one of their own thicker gaskets. Simply using two OEM gaskets won't provide adequate impeller spacing.

[djongeward]

Originally Posted by Elliott

The flow kooler comes with one regular (OEM like) gasket and one of their own thicker gaskets. Simply using two OEM gaskets won't provide adequate impeller spacing.

Yea, the several gaskets supplied. I remember a few. I did not mention OEM. But it did take two for me.

[jlewis]

I want to do it right the first time,so should I use the copper coat or aviation sealer? It sounds like RTV is out of the question.