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  #1  
Old 04-25-2009, 09:03 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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Motorcraft 2150 rebuild. pic heavy.

the subject. about to be fully stripped for a carb dip. not all i'm doing is necessary for a general freshen up job. this one is going in the dip,so it sheds all it's clothes.

i'd like to start by saying DO NOT REMOVE ANY BUTTERFLY SCREWS! either throttle or choke. it ruins the threads in the shaft and the bolts cannot be properly tightened down again,risking engine damage! the throttle/choke shafts are rarely necessary to remove.



use 2 wrenches on the fuel line,one on the line,another on the fitting,or both will turn.



first,if you find what look like rivets holding the choke cap on,they are not. they are tamper proof screws. slot them with a dremel,and remove with a screwdriver.





pull the choke link arm off.



pull the top cover screws.



and the top will pop off.



pop the float retaing clip to pull the float.



note the little damper spring.



pulling the main jets is not mandatory. if you do remove,use a big enough screwdriver to span the jet,or you'll tear 'em up.

remove the booster cluster screw.



and gently wiggle it free.



remove the accelerator check weight,and the ball under it.



remove the accelerator pump screws and cover. negotiate the link rod from the cover arm.



and remove the diaphragm. rip out the red umbrella in the pump bore too.



remove the accelerator pump link from the throttle arm.



on the bottom of the main body,remove the power valve cover screws,un-screw the power valve from the main body.





remove the idle mixture screws.



remove the choke housing screws.



remove the circlip on the fast idle link. and separate the choke housing from the main body.



remove the thermostat arm screw.



remove the linkage assembly. there is a teflon bushing inside the bore to be removed as well.



remove the choke pull-off solenoid.



remove the aneroid bellows.






the idle solenoid.



remove the fuel inlet valve. again,wide screw driver.



and re-assemble all the main parts loosly for dunking. i left the aneroid bellows off because i don't know if it'd survive the bath chemcals.

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Last edited by Ristow : 04-27-2009 at 07:49 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2009, 09:27 PM
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red mistress red mistress is offline
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carb overhaul thread

Great tech here...

Ought to put this in archives when finished.


Carb overhaul and tuning is a lost art...


.
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2009, 09:32 PM
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chr1s chr1s is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red mistress
Great tech here...

Ought to put this in archives when finished.


Carb overhaul and tuning is a lost art...


.

I agree with everything you just said!

Nice write up Mr Ristow
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Old 04-25-2009, 09:34 PM
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Cant wait for the second part,this will get bookmarked for sure. I will be puting it to use real soon also.

THANK YOU SIR!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-26-2009, 06:03 AM
andy d andy d is offline
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can't wait for the sequel , good job
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2009, 06:22 AM
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fulsizjeep fulsizjeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red mistress
Great tech here...

Ought to put this in archives when finished.


Carb overhaul and tuning is a lost art...

big dittos...
It is also not that difficult.
Some think there is voodoo in there.
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  #7  
Old 04-26-2009, 06:41 AM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulsizjeep
It is also not that difficult.
Some think there is voodoo in there.

correct. simple carb,no reason to avoid rebuilding one. this is one i'm doing for a friend,thought some pics for the apprehensive would be helpful in saving some money over a rebuilt unit for some of us.

tuning these is easy too,as they're for a stock configuration,really all that's needed is to properly set the choke/fast idle up,and set the idle mixture. i'll be getting into both on reassembly. these carbs in fact rarely need a full rebuild,but the correct powervalve is the most expensive piece in the kit,and make up the biggest cost in the kit,so you may as well get the kit and make it all fresh and anew.

most faults are failed powervalve,accelerator pump diaphragm and/or choke cap,causing various operating problems. these are easy and inexpensive problems to fix.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankrod
Ristows right.................again,


→ Where the kids hang out...

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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  #8  
Old 04-26-2009, 11:47 AM
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AnnieL AnnieL is offline
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What a ROCKIN' POST!!!!!!
Well done, I'm totally impressed!
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  #9  
Old 04-26-2009, 08:23 PM
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Sian09 Sian09 is offline
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I agree! A very good and detailed write-up. These are pretty simple and basic to rebuild even for my skill level. I'm thinking about taking off the 4bl on my J10 to go with the 2bl 2100 just cause its a lot easier to work on than the 4350! Can't wait for the next steps! Thanks Ristow!
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  #10  
Old 04-26-2009, 08:36 PM
twisted frame twisted frame is offline
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This is awesome! Thank you. I'll be following along and hope to apply the knowledge to a 4bbl soon. I did my 2100 not long ago and benefited from threads like these here.
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  #11  
Old 04-26-2009, 08:48 PM
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DAHoyle DAHoyle is offline
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Great post Ristow, I Had my laptop on the bench when I did my 4350, and kept switching between your rebuild, and the FSM.

I pulled the carburetor apart over a year ago, and had pretty much decided to trash it, so I wasn't even sure all the parts were there. I did have one last rebuild kit for it, so I figured what the He11. I'd have never got it back together without those resources.

Now I have 2 rebuilt 4350's, and a parts spare, and it's sort of like my old M16 rifle. Can throw 3 of them disassembled in a box with a bunch of other junk, and I can reassemble them.

Not that I'm admitting to doing that. That would say terrible things about the clutter on my work bench.
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  #12  
Old 04-26-2009, 10:15 PM
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What is the function of the idle solenoid? Great write up by the way!
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  #13  
Old 04-26-2009, 11:01 PM
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Murphy Murphy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulsizjeep
big dittos...
It is also not that difficult.
Some think there is voodoo in there.

Tritto

Archive material for sure.
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Old 04-27-2009, 07:32 AM
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Belteshazzar Belteshazzar is offline
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great timing, this job is on my to-do list this week anyway.

mucho thanks for taking the time to chronicle the job.
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2009, 08:33 AM
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Oi right on Mike

now i gotta tear mine apart cuz i miss seen' it jk
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  #16  
Old 04-27-2009, 08:45 AM
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This is good Mike, being that your a moderator here also, you'll be able to clean up this post so it can be archived...
I'll be referring to this when I do both of mine..well and I have like four other's sitting around..
Thanks
Aaron
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  #17  
Old 04-27-2009, 11:01 AM
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Lindel Lindel is offline
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One other thing, when you remove the idle mixture screws, look them over to make sure the tips aren't distorted because Bruno mistook them for head bolts.

No offense to any Bruno on the site intended...

If the tips are damaged, put new ones on your list.
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2009, 11:41 AM
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mattmopar440 mattmopar440 is offline
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What is that going on ???the Grand wag or you just doing it for fun
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  #19  
Old 04-27-2009, 12:08 PM
GWChris GWChris is offline
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Very nice job - should be a big help, especially given the number of 2150 rebuild questions that have come up of late.
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  #20  
Old 04-27-2009, 02:22 PM
HellCreek HellCreek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j20brett
What is the function of the idle solenoid? Great write up by the way!

The idle solenoid is energized (pops out) when the ignition key is turned on. It is set for the proper idle RPM. When you turn the key off, the solenoid pops back in and closes the throttle plate to prevent the engine from dieseling (running on).

Nice write-up, Ristow.
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