Rusted floor pans!!

[BKSTALL]

Hi All,

It has been a while since I have logged onto this site but I am now facing a major cross road in dealing with the old Wagoneer. With 210,000 miles, good brakes, an engine that starts even in the dead of winter and does not burn oil, I have discovered the floor pans are in need of replacement. The rocker panels are also in bad shape. The body above the bottom of the wood trim is in very good shape. I have no welding experience but can can do all the work up to welding and finishing. I am trying to get a sense for how much (more) I need to sink into the old friend. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

[Eugene 1]

i would try to save it. a member here makes the floor pans or you could get them from BJs

[BKSTALL]

Hi Eugene,

Yes, I am leaning that way. It is hard to get rid of a wagoneer. Do you know who is manufacturing the floor pans? Do you have any idea how much it would cost to have some one weld the pans and rocler panels?

Thanks,

Brian

[mattmopar440]

the floors on these trucks are very easy to fix and a mig welder dosen't cost all that much. worth saving if it in good shape

Heres some pic of my floor repair

[mattmopar440]

Originally Posted by BKSTALL

Do you know who is manufacturing the floor pans?

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/...p?pid=12&cid=8

I didnt use the floor pans I just went to my local metal supplier and got some flat steel and welded them in as for the cost to have someone do it I would be cheaper to buy a Craftmans welder and do it yourself and you would be ahead and have a welder at the end of the day

[Eugene 1]

Thanks Matt i was looking for the link a member here makes them so it should be the correct, fit ,style etc, Im learning to weld myself well... attempting anyway

[Elliott]

Originally Posted by Eugene 1

Thanks Matt i was looking for the link a member here makes them so it should be the correct, fit ,style etc, Im learning to weld myself well... attempting anyway

Here's the link to a thread by the Gary: OBX-Automotive. http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ght=floor+pans

[threepiece188]

Floor pans don't necessarily have to be welded in place and niether do the rocker pannels. You could use steel rivets or screws (I recomend 3/16" steel rivets for the floor). After removing the floor sheetmetal you could treat the support structure and the new sheetmetal with your favorite metal protector. After the install you would not need to go over it again to touch up the burned areas caused by welding, which usually never get compleatly coated.
The pinch flange along the top of the rocker (where the door seal attaches) can be secured by using pop rivets that are set with a hammer and dolly to minimise interference with the door seal. For this you can remove the draw mandrel from the POP rivets and begin the setting process with a dolly on the head of the rivet and a center punch and hammer on the other end. This will start the mushrooming that can be completed with the hammer alone.
Rivets can also be used on the painted A surface of your body. I would use 1/8" steel flathead POP rivets for this. An oversize drillbit can be used to create a chamfer on the surface so the rivet can be set flush. I would also apply a small bead of pollyurethane construction adhesive to the mating surfaces first and space those rivets no more than 1" appart.
Dan

[Dirtball]

I've been planning on going to the salvage yard and cutting the sides out of an old washer or dryer... but with our discount those from BJs will be so much better. I'm going to do the driver's side first with those and will decide later about the passenger side, which isn't nearly as bad. Didn't know the ones from BJs were so cheap...

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

YEP!! GET YOUR FLOORS FROM BJ..TELL "BRAT" I SENT YA!.....HEHEHEHEHEHE...I'M TO BUSY FISHING...HOLD UP!! I THINK I GOT ONE

AS FOR RIVETS, I WOULD NEVER RIVET A ROCKER ON, THAT'S KIND OF CRAZY ...YOU COULD GET AWAY WITH THE FLOORS,BUT KIND OF CRUDE

THANKS ELLIOTT, FOR THE PLUG!

[loganvilledude]

Originally Posted by threepiece188

Floor pans don't necessarily have to be welded in place and niether do the rocker pannels. You could use steel rivets or screws (I recomend 3/16" steel rivets for the floor). After removing the floor sheetmetal you could treat the support structure and the new sheetmetal with your favorite metal protector. After the install you would not need to go over it again to touch up the burned areas caused by welding, which usually never get compleatly coated.
The pinch flange along the top of the rocker (where the door seal attaches) can be secured by using pop rivets that are set with a hammer and dolly to minimise interference with the door seal. For this you can remove the draw mandrel from the POP rivets and begin the setting process with a dolly on the head of the rivet and a center punch and hammer on the other end. This will start the mushrooming that can be completed with the hammer alone.
Rivets can also be used on the painted A surface of your body. I would use 1/8" steel flathead POP rivets for this. An oversize drillbit can be used to create a chamfer on the surface so the rivet can be set flush. I would also apply a small bead of pollyurethane construction adhesive to the mating surfaces first and space those rivets no more than 1" appart.
Dan

While were on the topic of rust, what would one expect to pay for a body shop to remove and replace the rockers? My rig's floors are prefect, but the outer rockers are shot. The inside of the rockers are perfect with no rust.

[Dumpy]

I'm welding in a new floor as we speak. Just started today. Not too bad so far, but I have to cut the curves out for the tranny bump. It ain't gonna be purty, but wil be better than two feet of nothing beneath me.

[Jayrodoh]

Larry (handle millerluck) on here makes a set of heavy duty 12 gauge rockers. His are just the outer rocker and alot easier to install then the full deal. I just bought a set from him. These should outlast the jeep!

[duncanstives]

I welded pieces of metal from a local metal store... You can have it done but I had never welded in my life and with 5 minutes of instruction from a guy at work I was able to use our welder here to do a passable job... It looked like crap but the welds were sound and I am covering it with truck bed liner anyway. If you have a place to do it buy a cheap welder and do it yourself... You will be done in less than 5 hours and you will have a welder when its all said and done.

[Jayrodoh]

Originally Posted by OBX-AUTOMOTIVE

AS FOR RIVETS, I WOULD NEVER RIVET A ROCKER ON, THAT'S KIND OF CRAZY .

He lives in Michigan, makes it easier to change them out when they rust again a few years! You should start selling them with Velcro attached.

[janie]

Weld those puppies in. Beads don't have to be pretty. These came from our floor pan guru (THANKS FISHIN BUD) I've got more pic's, if you need them, but this will give you an idea.

The hardest part of this job is cutting out the rusted crud.

[Eugene 1]

Nice janie !

[J.J.]

You can do it!!

[zmjeeps]

As mentioned by several posters, Gary makes some floor pans and is a list member. I also carry the floor pans, front and rear, and rocker panels. It is an item that is in stock and ready to ship out of Ohio. Thanks,

Zack