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03-26-2009, 04:04 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Dec 26, 2007
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 512
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Opinions? Go electric or leave manual on rear window
I've finally assembled all the parts needed to convert my rear window to electric. Now I'm having second thoughts.
Is it a bad idea? I wanted power so I could run the window down a couple of inches while driving around and then run it up when I stop.
If I do put in the electric window, do I put in the safety switch? If so, does someone have pictures/measurements on where to drill the hole in the side of the tailgate to put this in?
Last edited by sappy76 : 03-26-2009 at 04:08 PM.
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03-26-2009, 04:08 PM
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Bleedin' Gasoline
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Join Date: Mar 14, 2007
Location: long island new york
Posts: 1,621
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I will take armstrong widows over electrics every time
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03-26-2009, 04:10 PM
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FSJ Maniac
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Join Date: Dec 11, 2004
Location: Byron, MI
Posts: 4,419
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I would keep it manual but if you do change it out I would not put in the safety switch unless you want it perfect for a correct factory resto type thing.
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Originally posted by Ristow flowmasters sound like canned crap they're all built the same, just the higher numbers put the crap in a bigger can.
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03-26-2009, 04:10 PM
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Gear Head
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Join Date: Dec 18, 2005
Location: Lisbon, Maine
Posts: 647
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My safety switch was broken when I got my rig. I just bypassed it. And come to think of it...havent touched it since. I have actually had a need to roll the window up with the tailgate down before. Just cant remember off hand why though.
Id stay manual, but mine isnt in good condition. If it was, Id probably prefer it.
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'79 Cherokee "Goldie" - under the knife Part I; Part II
Currently: body is on, now finishing undercarriage
'92 Cherokee "Rusty" - 3" lift, 31s
'05 Evo MR "Eve"
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03-26-2009, 04:35 PM
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Rabble Rouser
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Join Date: Feb 29, 2004
Location: Ignacio, Colorado, USA
Posts: 14,095
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No way! Electrics fail. After a long time looking, I just nabbed a 10 out 10 perfect full manual tailgate (local, to boot), and even got a copy of the key to lock it. Can't wait to install it. The factory wiring for the electric sucks, when it fails it'll drain your battery and likely kill it..the way it pinches when the gate is closed it plain stupid. If you hook it up, I'd drill 2 holes and use some braided hose as a sleeve at least. If you're going to want to cruise with the window down, be sure to install a rear air deflector, or prepare to suck exhaust. I've run it both ways (down with deflector, and without) and there's no comparison.
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .
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03-26-2009, 04:43 PM
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Gear Head
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Join Date: Nov 01, 2003
Location: DBN MI
Posts: 635
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Leave it manual, how many times would you roll down the window while driving? Simple is good, spend the time you would converting to electric on something else.
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2007 Ford F150
1985 Jeep GW
1979 Ford Fiesta (2)
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03-26-2009, 06:53 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Dec 26, 2007
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 512
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Is there anyone out there that likes the electric window?
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03-26-2009, 06:59 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Mar 10, 2009
Location: Loganville, GA
Posts: 324
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by sappy76
Is there anyone out there that likes the electric window?
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Well I have an electric one that works fine, but I would prefer a manual myself. I can just imagine a monsoon coming along about the time I need to roll it up and that will probably be the day it will die  .
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03-26-2009, 07:16 PM
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Gear Head
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Join Date: Nov 01, 2003
Location: DBN MI
Posts: 635
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by loganvilledude
Well I have an electric one that works fine, but I would prefer a manual myself. I can just imagine a monsoon coming along about the time I need to roll it up and that will probably be the day it will die  .
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X2
I have it, I like it, but if I didn't I would not take the time to convert it to electric. For example, I have a newer car with power windows, I noticed driver side goes up and down slower than the other windows. Now when I have to swipe parking pass at work I open door. All it takes is one time when the window stops working when you need it most!
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2007 Ford F150
1985 Jeep GW
1979 Ford Fiesta (2)
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03-26-2009, 07:23 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Dec 05, 2008
Location: Boulder Creek, Ca
Posts: 294
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I have an electric that works from both the dash switch and tailgate switch and I love it. I used to run install shops so electric windows and power door locks are are no mystery to me. I have six vehicles and five of them have power windows and locks, and every one of them work. I'm just waiting for the kit to convert the sixth.
Now if you think 12V electrics are difficult to figure out and you have to pay someone to fix them, or if you beat on your rig hard off-road, the manual might be a better choice. Or maybe you just like manual stuff better (I like manual transmissions better than automatics), personal choice.
If you do convert, I'd put in the safety switch. YOU might know it's not there, but what about your wife or friend or someone who borrows your rig? One time trying to roll the window up when the tailgate is down, and you're looking for a new rear window.
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03-26-2009, 08:07 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Dec 26, 2007
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 512
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RubiconMike
If you do convert, I'd put in the safety switch. YOU might know it's not there, but what about your wife or friend or someone who borrows your rig? One time trying to roll the window up when the tailgate is down, and you're looking for a new rear window.
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Thanks, I'm certainly not afraid of 12 volt electronics, if I was, I wouldn't be doing what I'm doing.
Can you take some detail pictures of the location of the safety switch? I'm sure if I get it in the wrong place I'll regret it.
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03-26-2009, 08:34 PM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2009
Location: Tacoma WA.
Posts: 264
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I tore out the electric for a manual...What it takes all a 1/2 minute to stop put up or down....Also electric only give you problems when you need to roll up cause of rain, sleet, snow...and what happens when it doesnt go up....
Steve... 
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2002 Chrystler Sebring LX DD
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03-26-2009, 08:48 PM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Jul 15, 2007
Posts: 895
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by sappy76
Thanks, I'm certainly not afraid of 12 volt electronics, if I was, I wouldn't be doing what I'm doing.
Can you take some detail pictures of the location of the safety switch? I'm sure if I get it in the wrong place I'll regret it.
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There is also a post in the tailgate jamb to trip the safety switch. At least there is on the 80-83s. I don't know if yours has one already or not.
Now that I have my tailgate working completely (knock on woodgrain), I love it. But it is wrapped up for body work and I can't get pics. RubiconMike will help you out.
A real good idea is to tap a couple of 12 gauge wires directly off the motor wires, and run them with the other wires out the bottom of the tailgate and under the cargo area behind the bumper. Leave about 6' of wire coiled up and unstripped, then ziptie the coil to the frame or crossmember so it will be hidden. If your tailgate window ever fails in the up position, you can use a long hotwire from you battery to those wires to power the motor and get the window down to fix a bad switch or something in the tailgate.
[i]Hot jumper to one wire in the coil and ground the other. If the window tries to go up, put the hot jumper on the other wire and ground the first one. Then the window should go down. If that makes sense. -- This is a super handy way to get the stuck window down and the tailgate open so you can check/find/fix/bypass the prob.
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