Freeze plug replacement question

[rang-a-stang]

Oh, and tool:

I started with this (borrowed it from a friend):
OTC Frost Plug tool
HATED IT! Absolute TURD of a tool. It won't work for you anyway (since you are not on an engine stand) but don't buy/rent/borrow a tool like that. wiley-moe always has awesome advice so maybe the offset tool he speaks of is better. I just ended up finding an old crappy socket that fit just inside the frost plugs and tapped it in with a mallet until it was about 1/8" out of the block then gently tapped the plug in the last little bit with a small hammer. It should sit flush to the block when you are done.

[ZackN920]

Guy's, I chickened out and said F-it.

I got looking at it more that Friday and figured "this is gunna take me all day". "Probably won't be done until sunday!" So, since it's very slow at the moment, I'm just going to watch it like I've been doing. Actually, after changing the radiator and cleaning under the engine some, I haven't noticed any green driplet's forming yet. and I've put something like 200 miles on it since the radiator change.
I've decided that this IS a job to do if the engine comes out, or if I get access to a lift to put it up on. Laying on the floor underneath for several hours/ all day is a royal pain in the ass!

This is a link with photos of the Dorman copper plugs. I'm going to use them on my leaking Jaguar because there's no access to drive in conventional plugs.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...wG3g&gclsrc=ds

Interesting. I haven't ever come across those before.

IIRC - drive the point of the bar through the center, and pry it out. Destructive removal.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto.../dp/B002FCGE4M

Interesting looking tool. I have a pry bar about that size, wonder if that would do?
What I was planning on doing is pretty destructive too! Large flathead screw driver and a 5lb hammer... and hope they end up cocked sideways so I could grab em' with pliers. Most likely though-tear out the centers, then fight the outer ringe to get the fudge out of the block...

Permatex #1.

cool

When I installed my brass freeze plugs, I rubbed the inside of the hole with a very light coating of "The Right Stuff" black then inserted the plug. My machinist recommended "The Right Stuff" and when I googled it, I saw nothing but good about it (other than cost). So far mine do not leak. I say if you are going to go through the effort of replacing the freeze plugs ALWAYS use brass. They will outlive your engine. Figure on it taking a Saturday. If all goes well, 4 hours but knowing it NEVER all goes well, so a Saturday.

Clean the hole out with a stiff wire brush. Don't get the cheapies from Harbor Freight or you will break one off in your block, then good luck getting it. Get the ones that are about the size of a tooth brush. Also, some emory cloth works well, too. Make sure you do your TStat (195 Degree) while you have your cooling system drained.

Then fill your truck with straight distilled water. Run it like that until (at least) you have had normal operating temps for 20 mins. Turn if off, drain it, pull your rad again, rinse it out, and repeat one or two times. Then just drain the Rad and fill with 2 gallons of green concentrate and Water Wetter.

huh, how do ya like that- a place near by me actually has that stuff for a fair price...
Yup, brass is what I got. That's what I kept reading when I was looking this stuff up.

Got the brushes man, with all the crap I do, I got plenty of em'. Also got a variety of the emery cloth but I'm always misplacing that junk, probably take me half an hour to find it.
Tstat? why? I didn't change that when I did the rad swap. It actually looked pretty good(what I could see of it) and works great.

Still haven't looked up that water wetter stuff

Oh, and tool:

I started with this (borrowed it from a friend):
OTC Frost Plug tool
HATED IT! Absolute TURD of a tool. It won't work for you anyway (since you are not on an engine stand) but don't buy/rent/borrow a tool like that. wiley-moe always has awesome advice so maybe the offset tool he speaks of is better. I just ended up finding an old crappy socket that fit just inside the frost plugs and tapped it in with a mallet until it was about 1/8" out of the block then gently tapped the plug in the last little bit with a small hammer. It should sit flush to the block when you are done.

Yea, that wouldn't work at all for the rusty crap wagon...
I'm always doing that stuff with socket's! Your talking about for install though, right?

[ZackN920]

Darn computer double posted...

[tgreese]

...
Interesting looking tool. I have a pry bar about that size, wonder if that would do?
What I was planning on doing is pretty destructive too! Large flathead screw driver and a 5lb hammer... and hope they end up cocked sideways so I could grab em' with pliers. Most likely though-tear out the centers, then fight the outer ringe to get the fudge out of the block...
...

You could use anything with a pointy end that you can hammer on. The main advantage of this bar is the end is shaped so you can hammer on it. If you have a big screwdriver with a shaft that goes all the way through to a cap on the top, that might work too.

[rang-a-stang]

...So, since it's very slow at the moment, I'm just going to watch it like I've been doing.

Good plan. You're right, its a long awful job. you're laying on your back letting crap fall on your face, down your shirt sleeves, etc. you will also go through about a million pairs of nitrile gloves if you wear them because they get hooked and cut on all the rust and stuff.

Tstat? why? I didn't change that when I did the rad swap. It actually looked pretty good(what I could see of it) and works great.

I change my TStat all the time. They are so cheap and easy to replace. Especially when dealing with this type of work. I have had rust chunks plug my TStat and if you are opening your system this much you can be sure, chunks are gonna come loose.

Still haven't looked up that water wetter stuff

Meh, it's not a huge deal. It helps your coolant exchange heat better. So it pulls heat from your engine better and releases heat in your radiator faster. I had a Ranger with a 5.0HO and it would over heat whenever I would tow anything or drive it in the sand. Added this stuff and it never got hot again. Supposedly it also has anti-rust additives and other blah blah stuff but really I buy and recommend it because it helps your cooling system be a better cooling system.

https://www.redlineoil.com/waterwetter

... Your talking about for install though, right?

yeah. Install.

[JeepJeepster]

I had all sorts of fun changing out the casting plug in the rear of the drivers side head....

Some said they cut a hole in the firewall but I was NOT going to do that.

Ended up using a battery powered ratchet to put a large self tapping screw in the casting plug. Put some vice grips on the screw then used a small pry bar to pop it out. Was able to use a small sledge hammer to tap tap tap tap it back in.