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  #1  
Old 11-15-2011, 08:47 AM
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Schlagger Schlagger is offline
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Strange sound has me confounded. Help please!

Ok, the 79 Waggy is making a noise(360/QT). It is a repetitive ticking noise, kind of like a baseball card in the spokes of a bike wheel. It sounds like its coming from the center/back of the Jeep, and it gets faster when I drive faster, slowing down as I brake. It does not get faster if I rev the engine while moving.

Ok now the weird part. When I don't have a trailer on, I don't hear it or it is very very faint. If I turn the heater on or roll the window down I can't hear it all. When I have a trailer hooked up, it is much louder, and the more weight I have on the trailer the louder it is.

The driveshafts and u-joints are solid. I don't feel any play in them at all. I'm totally lost. Anyone have ideas?
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1979 Wagoneer QT 360 4" BDS Lift
1979 Cherokee Chief QT 360
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1986 Honda XR600R
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  #2  
Old 11-15-2011, 08:55 AM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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Could be many many things, but mine was had the same exact noises and it turned out to be the fan clutch.

Lol, although my TJ made a similar noise and I left it unattended and it eventually threw a rod.

Hopefully it's a cheap fix, get under the hood and see if the fan wobbles and what kind of resistance it has.
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  #3  
Old 11-15-2011, 09:19 AM
Asphalt Cowboy Asphalt Cowboy is offline
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How's the chain deflection in your QT?

Mine had a rattlerattle ticticticrattle. Turned out the chain was about to go south.
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  #4  
Old 11-15-2011, 09:31 AM
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Wouldn't the fan clutch increase in speed with the engine? If so that's not it.

I thought the QT might be the problem, so I drained it and put the correct TCL-1 fluid in. While empty I checked the tension and it had maybe 1/4" of play which seems to be fine based on what I have read. The sound DOES sound like its coming from that area though.
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1979 Cherokee Chief QT 360
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  #5  
Old 11-15-2011, 09:42 AM
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710 Burner 710 Burner is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlagger
Ok now the weird part...
Finally, I was waiting for you to get to the "weird" part. Lol.
I have no Idea unless your chain is slapping the case.
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Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


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  #6  
Old 11-15-2011, 09:45 AM
Bobafett Bobafett is offline
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I should have read your post more in depth, lol. It doesn't sound like either of the things I posted. My bad.
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  #7  
Old 11-15-2011, 09:50 AM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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i'd be looking at the rear wheel bearings.
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  #8  
Old 11-15-2011, 09:54 AM
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grand_wag_85 grand_wag_85 is offline
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How much weight are you putting on the trailer, is the Jeep lifted any?
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  #9  
Old 11-15-2011, 10:04 AM
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Chuck Brown Chuck Brown is offline
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My very first impression when I read your description was that it sounded like a ring/seal (doughnut) between the exhaust and manifold. I've never changed this part on my FSJ, but I've had to do it on other early Fords I've owned. Fairly minor PITA, mostly because I had to pull the manifold and fairly rusted bolts.

Chuck Brown
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  #10  
Old 11-15-2011, 10:46 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
i'd be looking at the rear wheel bearings.

+1. Clicking sound is a common sign of a failing wheel bearing. BTDT.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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  #11  
Old 11-15-2011, 11:10 AM
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Schlagger Schlagger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grand_wag_85
How much weight are you putting on the trailer, is the Jeep lifted any?

Trailer empty is 1,000#. I had about 2,000# on it this weekend, so just 1.5 tons total. Should be no problem, and I've towed more in the past. Jeep has a 4" BDS lift, about 4 months old.
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1979 Wagoneer QT 360 4" BDS Lift
1979 Cherokee Chief QT 360
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2006 Honda Shadow Aero
1986 Honda XR600R
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  #12  
Old 11-15-2011, 11:23 AM
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Schlagger Schlagger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Brown
My very first impression when I read your description was that it sounded like a ring/seal (doughnut) between the exhaust and manifold. I've never changed this part on my FSJ, but I've had to do it on other early Fords I've owned. Fairly minor PITA, mostly because I had to pull the manifold and fairly rusted bolts.

Chuck Brown

Nope, that would go along with engine speed. Wheel bearing seems to make the most sense.
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1979 Cherokee Chief QT 360
1968 Jeepster Commando 4" HC Lift
2006 Honda Shadow Aero
1986 Honda XR600R
1984 Chevy 3500 Box Truck
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  #13  
Old 11-15-2011, 11:25 AM
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I've done wheel bearings on a trailer but never on the Jeep. Do I just buy a complete bearing or are there several other parts or maybe a kit I need to get. Thanks for the help again guys.

Just been reading about doing it in the archives-I'm just an amateur shade tree mechanic. Is this something I should attempt? I put the lift kit on my self and just replaced the oil pan so I can turn wrenches, but the one bearing I did on a trailer just came right out when I pulled the hub off.
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1979 Wagoneer QT 360 4" BDS Lift
1979 Cherokee Chief QT 360
1968 Jeepster Commando 4" HC Lift
2006 Honda Shadow Aero
1986 Honda XR600R
1984 Chevy 3500 Box Truck

Last edited by Schlagger : 11-15-2011 at 11:55 AM.
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  #14  
Old 11-15-2011, 01:52 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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I've only done this job on my old F100, and I had the shop install the new parts on the axle shaft. Not a difficult job, as I recall. You need some way to slam the axle and bearing out of the end of the axle tube. You've been reading about this - did you get to the part about using the brake drum as a slide hammer? A big slide hammer is the official tool to extract the axle with. Read the FSM too - any edition of FSM from the '70s will cover it.

There was also some discussion lately about which parts to use. BJs offers the kits, or you may want to look for a specific bearing and retainer.

BTW we are only talking about the rear axle here. The front axle bearings are more like those in your trailer.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

Last edited by tgreese : 11-15-2011 at 01:55 PM.
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  #15  
Old 11-15-2011, 06:31 PM
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Schlagger Schlagger is offline
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Thanks everyone. I went by the only shop in town I trust and they said $204 just for the labor. Now I remember why I started working on my own cars.

I can borrow a slide hammer from AutoZone so that's no problem. I've read about cutting the bearing off with a pneumatic cutting wheel and thats no problem.

So, the two questions I'm not sure about:

1. What exactly do I need to do the whole job right? I'd like to get this stuff right away so I'm hoping NAPA has everything. Just looking to do the 2 rear bearing right now. I'm assuming what BJs lists as the "axle bearing" kit is the same thing?

2. Do I NEED the press or can I get away with the freezer trick mentioned above? If I do, I figure I'll get one from harbor freight. Anyone have experience with this one?:

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-...ess-32879.html

It has really good reviews and I can pick one up to avoid the shipping.
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1979 Wagoneer QT 360 4" BDS Lift
1979 Cherokee Chief QT 360
1968 Jeepster Commando 4" HC Lift
2006 Honda Shadow Aero
1986 Honda XR600R
1984 Chevy 3500 Box Truck

Last edited by Schlagger : 11-15-2011 at 06:55 PM.
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  #16  
Old 11-15-2011, 07:28 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Does your local Napa have a shop? Or is there an automotive machine shop nearby? Tell them what you want and ask how much it would cost to install the new bearing on your axle. I would expect them to charge $20-30 for one side, a little more for both sides. I've heard of people driving the retainer on, but I would just pay a shop to press off the old and press on the new. Should be a snap for a busy shop.

Also, you don't need to disassemble the brakes. Remove the drums, unbolt the backing plates, remove the axles, and hang the backing plates from the frame of the car with coat hanger wire. Leave everything connected and assembled. You'll need jack stands to go under the rear axle.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

Last edited by tgreese : 11-15-2011 at 07:32 PM.
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  #17  
Old 11-15-2011, 07:42 PM
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Thanks for the advice tgreese. I'm not exactly sure what you mean but I'm sure it will become obvious when I start doing it. I think I'll just buy a press. This is the third time I've needed one and I really hate paying someone when I can just buy the tool and do it myself. No shop at Napa and no machine shop here unfortunately.

Do you think that press is adequate?

Do you know if the BJ's axle kit is what I want? It looks like the right parts but the picture makes it hard to tell.
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1979 Wagoneer QT 360 4" BDS Lift
1979 Cherokee Chief QT 360
1968 Jeepster Commando 4" HC Lift
2006 Honda Shadow Aero
1986 Honda XR600R
1984 Chevy 3500 Box Truck

Last edited by Schlagger : 11-15-2011 at 09:02 PM.
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  #18  
Old 11-15-2011, 09:57 PM
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Schlagger-

I just changed my rear wheel bearings this weekend, so it's fresh on my mind.
To remove the axle shafts, you will unbolt the backing plates first. I used the redneck slide hammer method that others have used to pull the axles from the tubes (take your brake drum and put it on backwards; put two lug nuts back on partially, and give it a couple of good yanks. The axle should pop right out.
I used an air cutoff tool as you mentioned to cut of the bearing retainer and the bearings. You want to be very careful not to scratch the axle surface here, so I only cut about 7/8ths of the way through the bearing retainer then tapped it with a cold chisel and it popped open. Same with the inner race when you cut through the bearing cage. Slide all of this mess off and you are now ready to use your shop press to press on the new outer oil seal/bearings/retainer. (Yes, I bought a shop press too; the Northern Tool Big Red 12 ton. The 20 ton is the way to go at HF since you have more room to work with the axle)

Note: When you remove your axle, if the bearings are exposed, it means the outer race is still inside the axle tube. You'll need to pop this out before you reinstall the axle, obviously. Billy Goat has a great writeup on the whole process here:

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=128039

Hope this helps!
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:19 PM
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Yes that helps Pman--thanks very much!

Did you buy the kit from BJs or did you get the parts somewhere else? What all did you purchase?
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  #20  
Old 11-15-2011, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlagger
Yes that helps Pman--thanks very much!

Did you buy the kit from BJs or did you get the parts somewhere else? What all did you purchase?

I did not buy the kit from BJs only because I was in a rush to get it done. I would definitely recommend buying their kit. That's what I'll buy the next time. I bought the outer seals from Advance and the bearings from NAPA. NAPA wanted 24 bucks/ea for the seals!! Under 10 bucks at Advance. The one thing I haven't replaced is the inner oil seals (inside the axle tube). I couldn't find anyone local that had these. I read here on the board that there is a debate as to if they are even needed. I just left my old ones in for now.

PM me if you get stumped. I had to lean on a few guys here when I did the first axle since I was just fumbling my way through the process. It really is easy once you complete one side.

PS-The bearing retainer is included with the bearings I purchased.
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82 Wagoneer Limited (Cracker)-360 c.i.d.,Rusty's 4" Lift, Rancho RS9000x Shocks, TFI Upgrade, BFG 31" All Terrains
88 Wrangler Laredo (Tubbles)-258 c.i.d.,33" BF Goodrich Mud Terrains,3.5" lift, 8000lb. Warn Winch, Aussie Locker (Front)
81 CJ 5 (Lulu)-304-T150-D20
82 CJ 8 Scrambler- 258-T5-D300

Last edited by Pman : 11-15-2011 at 10:57 PM.
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